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gs1150 engine question and suggestion

  • Thread starter Thread starter 2012_jk
  • Start date Start date
2

2012_jk

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Hi

I have 1984 GS1150 with 87000 km on it that I'm going to rebuild due to air leaking out of #2 and #3 carb during leak down test and only making 99hp on the dyno after tuning and has always been cold blooded. And I would like peoples opinion on my parts list and any suggestion to do:

- 1199 big bore kit
- web 168 grind cam
- adjustable sprockets
- APE valve springs (Ordered)
- APE Valve guides (Ordered)
- APE Manual cam tensioner (Ordered)
- APE Cylinder Head nut (Ordered)
- APE extra plate clutch(already in Bike)
- Ape clutch Basket nut (already in bike)
- Rebuild Clutch Hub(not sure who's to do it or kit)
- GSXR 38mm Carbs (Have)
- Dyna coils (Have)
- Port and Polish and rebuild head (need to find place to get done)
- Over size valves( not sure)
- GS750 oil pump gear (Ordered)
- true and weld crank
- top end oiler (need to find plans or order block that keep oil pressure and temp sensor)
- All new seals and gaskets
- APE Shifter rods
- New Cam Chain
- New valve keepers

Thanks
Peter
 
Last edited:
Few random comments about your list:
-Manual cam chain tensioner has it's pros and cons. It provides some extra reliability if you have stiff valve springs, aggressive cam and if you like to rev the engine to red line. On the other hand you have to adjust it correctly and check adjustment every now and then.
-For the head it would be good to find a shop that really knows these engines. Based on your plans they can then advice what kind porting would be suitable and if over size valves are needed as these go hand in hand.
-Also for the crank it's better to find someone who really knows these roller bearing cranks. Ideally all the bearings should be inspected before welding the crank. It's quite commong to have some pitting on bearing surfaces and then the crank won't last long.
-I'm not sure if you really need a top end oiler. Basically there are two reasons to use it. First thicker head studs that limit oil flow to head. And second hot cams with stiff valve springs that need more oil to keep them alive. I don't know if your springs and planned cam are "hot" enough to require extra lubrication. Catch here is that these top end oiler arrangements may cause some unexpected changes to oil flow if you don't know exactly what you are doing. So just slamming in some kit isn't always the best idea.
-I think the stock shifter rods should be ok if they are in good condition. And if this isn't going to be a race only bike. I haven't had any problems with stock rods by this far, about 300hp, quick shifter and so on...
 
These motors only made at best about 105-107 hp at the rear wheel, so 99 may well be due to minor tuning issues. That's a pretty healthy number, actually.
 
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