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GS1150 Replacing Valve Seals

  • Thread starter Thread starter robert_r_lefebvre
  • Start date Start date
R

robert_r_lefebvre

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Looks like I'm going to have to replace the valve seals on my GS1150.
Bike smoked (Cylinders 3 and 4) under hard acceleration and engine deceleration at times. Compression on all 4 cylinders was 150 pounds.

My question is has anyone removed the top end without having to remove the engine from the frame?

Winter project to replace valve seals.

Thanks
Bob
 
Yes. You will have to remove the fuel tank, the exhaust, carbs, cam end covers, and breather cover, and finally the cam cover. Remember to loosen all the fasteners gradually, and in a criss-cross pattern to minimize/prevent warping of the aluminum casting. Remove the Cam bushing caps, unbolt the cam driven gears from each cam, and use a coat hanger to retain the cam chain so it doesn't fall into the crank case. Then you can remove both cams, and there should be enough clearance to slip the head off the studs. You could go further, if necessary, and remove the jugs and pistons for a full overhaul. Hope this helps.
 
Yes you can remove the cylinder head & block without removing the motor from the frame, tappat cover is the hardest bit to get off, you have to remove the coils.
Be sure to remove the block and replace the base gasket & there o-rings, even if you only remove the head. Obviously removing the head releases the pressure on the base gasket; all held on via the same studs, if you dont replace them you will end up with a leak at the cylinder base.

Dink
 
thcash said:
Yes. You will have to remove the fuel tank, the exhaust, carbs, cam end covers, and breather cover, and finally the cam cover. Remember to loosen all the fasteners gradually, and in a criss-cross pattern to minimize/prevent warping of the aluminum casting. Remove the Cam bushing caps, unbolt the cam driven gears from each cam, and use a coat hanger to retain the cam chain so it doesn't fall into the crank case. Then you can remove both cams, and there should be enough clearance to slip the head off the studs. You could go further, if necessary, and remove the jugs and pistons for a full overhaul. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

The steps highlighted above ARE NOT necessary!! The 1150 is significantly different to earlier GS 16v heads, i.e. there NO cam end covers, you do not need to remove the breather cover; remove the coils instead. The bolts that hold the cam cover on go into the cam caps, so need to worry about loosening sequentially; The cam caps ARE a diferent matter work on one at a time, crack each of the four bolts diagonally, and slowly release the tension on the cam. leaving the cam gears on the cams makes it easier to re-install them for a start; as you know the timing marks are correct, also it makes it easier to grab the cam chain (BTW I use a ziptie to secure the camchain) and you should remove the barrels (or block, whichever you wish to call it)and at least replace the base gasket and o-rings at least, I also recommend doing the rings whilst you are there.

Dink
 
BTW I just finished doing exactly this on my "1150" & I work at an engine re-conditioners. I also have and used my genuine Suzuki service manual.

Dink
 
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