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GS250T choke operation

F

fbody_mike

Forum Mentor
On my 1981 gs250t it has a pull knob for the choke. I have always had levers so this one is simple but has me confused. Should it snap back to close when I let it go or should it stay pulled out until I press it in?

Right now it springs back when I let it go.
 
Try turning the round knob at the base of the pull knob. That tightens the hold on the cable and keeps the knob from snapping back in when you let go.
 
When things are set up correctly, it's also possible to turn the knob after pulling it out.
The shaft is not perfectly round, so that will jam it in place.
Just turn the knob back to the starting position before pushing it back in.

.
 
The choke knob doesn't turn on these carbs, it's just a pull type. What I found missing was a spring that's about 1/8 inch in diameter and about 1/4 inch long. Where the choke rod goes through the carbs body there is a ball and spring that is pressed into a hole that makes contact with the rod. This real close to the idle air screws. This spring is easily lost when the choke rod is removed. Both of the carbs were missing this spring, so the rod had no resistance to the plunger spring.

To fix this I removed the rod and drove out each ball using a small punch. I then reinstalled the rod, inserted the spring and pressed the ball into the hole, trapping the spring between the ball and rod. Now the choke stays where I set it.

A tip, Suzuki doesn't list this spring on their parts catalog drawings, but it is shown in the factory manual. I found a similar spring available from Yamaha on a 78 xs400, but I don't know if it is an exact fit. The spring I used was from some old valve core stems. It does the job.
 
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You don't rotate the knob, it's the bezel that pinches down and provides resistance on the knob stem. Not all cables have this feature but many GS cables do so you might want to check it out.

choke cable.JPG
 
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