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GS300L, new stator, not holding charge

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ric
  • Start date Start date
R

Ric

Guest
Hi all!

As mentioned, the piglet has a new stator in it from DB Electrical on eBay. Last summer I bought a sealed AGM battery for it. A couple weeks ago, I hopped on it to leave work and got NOTHING when I turned the key. No lights, nothing. Managed to roll it off and get home after sticking a piece of cardboard between the hot post and the frame after suspecting a shortout there. Ran fine till this past Friday, when I had to roll start it again(Thank God for hills).

Last night I disconnected the battery and checked for a short by sticking the ohmmeter to the RR hot wire and a good ground with the key OFF - showed infinite resistance. Turned key ON, showed 1-2 ohms. So no short in the wiring, correct?

Also, when I took the new stator on its maiden voyage it didn't light up too bright at first - but then everything suddenly lit up like a Las Vegas carnival, seemingly too bright. During this first few minutes, if I hit the turn signal or brake, the lights would go very dim and the engine would GAIN power. Made for a really weird surge/struggle/surge/struggle when changing lanes. :P Any idea why that would've happened?
 
By the way, I did find the new stator connectors loose this evening and squeezed them a bit with the channel locks. Also blew the fuse between home and work this morning, which seems odd because without that fuse the bike shouldn't run, right? Either way, it has a new one in now, and after riding home(about 20 minutes) it started back up after I shut it off.
 
So I managed to get it started again, rode to work fine. Started on its own after work too. Got a couple things for home and gas, and it just blew the fuse again. Checking for shorts, I got continuity between the red, white/red, and white/blue lugs on the RR. Should that be? Also pulled up the schematic on the bike, and I'm grtting continuity between each stator lead and ground. Shouldn't do that, should it???
 
And no, still have yet to do the quick test - planned on it tonight when I got home till this happened.
 
If stator is disconnected from r/r, you should see NO continuity between any stator lead and ground. You might have pinched stator wires where they exit windings.
 
tom203 said:
If stator is disconnected from r/r, you should see NO continuity between any stator lead and ground. You might have pinched stator wires where they exit windings.
Click to expand...

Weird thing is, when I tried showing a friend who came to help me get the bike home, it suddenly had ZERO continuity. It fired up once we got it all plugged back up, but now it doesn't charge. If it does, it's suddenly MUCH less than before. Guessing I blowed a new stator.
 
tom203 said:
If stator is disconnected from r/r, you should see NO continuity between any stator lead and ground. You might have pinched stator wires where they exit windings.
Click to expand...

Weird thing is, when I tried showing a friend who came to help me get the bike home, it suddenly had ZERO continuity. It fired up once we got it all plugged back up, but now it doesn't charge. If it does, it's suddenly MUCH less than before. Guessing I blowed a new stator.
 
Okay, just did the quick test, with one small caveat - I had to boost it with JUST the battery on our SUV, and only to start it. As in, I didn't let it build a charge before cranking it. Once it started, I disconnected the booster cables and took the readings without hooking back up.

Key off: 10.41
Key on: 9.43
At idle: 10.04
2500rpm: 10.40
5000rpm: 10.41, then started dropping fast to 8.65 before I shut it down.
Key off: 9.96, after unplugging red RR wire - with the red RR wire hooked up voltage dropped to 6.65 in about 20 seconds before I unplugged it.

All three stator wires have continuity to ground at the moment.
 
Last edited:
Just checked voltage between stator wires - idle showed 85-90VAC, 2500ish RPM was 175-185VAC.
 
After fixing dinner for the family, I ran through the fault finding diagram on electronicamotos.com, and the diode test on the RR says it's toast. But then why is the bike still running if the RR is bad - would it do that?

I will say that the little b@$tard gets VERY hot when the bike is running.
 
Bunch of stuff makes no sense here....
Your AC voltage readings are odd..
"Just checked voltage between stator wires - idle showed 85-90VAC, 2500ish RPM was 175-185VAC."

using same meter range, test an outlet in your house- you should see about 120 vac.

Your quick test leaves alot to be desired,since your battery was boosted by your suv's. But this....

after unplugging red RR wire - with the red RR wire hooked up voltage dropped to 6.65 in about 20 seconds before I unplugged it."

suggests your wiring is messed up and/or your r/r is toast.

​
 
I'm 100% with you - stuff ain't making sense.

Somewhere toward the end of testing last night, I believe something did happen to my multimeter that made it start reading higher than before. Clueless as to what, though.

When the voltage on the quick test started dropping fast, that's when I was getting continuity between the stator wires and ground. That's what started blowing the fuse in the first place with this whole debacle.

Concerning the battery boost - my battery was low already, and wouldn't start the bike. I seriously limited the boost to turn key on/connect booster cable/start bike/remove booster cable.

I still have wiring to go through under the tank, but those stator wires threw me a loop showing continuity to ground. And should the bike run with a bad RR? Or should the RR get too hot to touch?
 
" When the voltage on the quick test started dropping fast, that's when I was getting continuity between the stator wires and ground. That's what started blowing the fuse in the first place with this whole debacle."

not sure that I want to know how you are checking continuity stator to ground during the quick test, but...

let's start over.. Forget the quick test . disconnect stator from r/r and check ac voltage stator lead to stator lead. First check your meter on house outlet. Get bike running using the non running suv battery if needed. At 4000rpm, measure ac stator lead to stator lead. Then ,while still running,check one stator lead to good bike ground and let us know.
 
I checked the stator-to-ground when the bike first quit on me in the gas station parking lot, before I ever knew the quick test was on here - I just set the meter to ohms to check the stator-to-ground issue. It doesn't stay shorted to ground, just intermittent.

Everything else I've done as you said, except for the stator-to-ground voltage while running.
 
Your reported ac readings are odd, so as I said before....

"let's start over.. Forget the quick test . disconnect stator from r/r and check ac voltage stator lead to stator lead. First check your meter on house outlet. Get bike running using the non running suv battery if needed. At 4000rpm, measure ac stator lead to stator lead. Then ,while still running,check one stator lead to good bike ground and let us know."

meters are easily damaged, so make sure you check yours. We need to find out if stator is OK, before we move on. It's vital to rule things out step by step.​
 
Meter is definitely off - set to the 200VAC range, the house wiring went off the chart. My once 10.4V battery now shows 12.7V. I'll button the meter back together and see what I get on the stator. DC readings are about 20% high, so best I can do with this meter is deduct 20% from what I get. Not exactly scientific, I know.
 
Between the stator wires shows same as before. 175-185VAC. Stator-to-ground was 2.6VAC.
 
Your meter is no good- don't waste time making allowances/adjustments to it. Just get another ,$10 units work fine.
 
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