GS450 Cafe / Fighter Style

[Collo]

Thanks Hillsy for the info, I'll look into doing that as my forks sit pretty high now for a small 30mm lowering.

Pete, I would love to tell you what they do but I got no idea, it looks like air goes into maybe someone on here knows?

 

[Guest]

I know some have air adjusters on them but mine don't so I don't have a clue on how to use them or anything... I think there's mention of them in the Clymer or Haynes though...

 

[Collo]

I'll have a look. Also, just trying to get the front wheel back on. I have no idea in which order the parts go together. I've seen the diagrams on google images but each year model has a different diagram it's confusing.

Maybe I lost some parts but when I do the axle bolt up the wheel hardly turns and if its not it spins wonderful but then the speedo drive spins with it. Any ideas?

 

[hillsy]

Did you take out the wheel bearings at some stage and forget to put the bearing spacer back in the hub? That would explain the wheel binding when you tighten the axle.

Or do you have the spacers in the wrong way and they are binding on the bearing seals??

 

[Guest]

+1 to what Hillsy said... should be a spacer between the wheel bearings, a spacer on the right that has a flat side that goes against the wheel from memory, and speedo drive on the left.

Have a look at the parts fiche on Alpha Sports to be sure you have them the right way.

 

[Collo]

Thanks for the tips on the wheel, got it sorted. Both wheels on and ordering some new front brake pads.

Have a slight problem though... One of my coil wires came out as it broke away and now I need a new coil. I know absolutely nothing about electrics and have tried to understand the Dyna setup without much success. As a coil will cost me a a fair bit, would I be better buying two aftermarket coils that are new, a replacement original old coil or going down the Dyna setup?

Tomorrow's job is getting the swing arm bolt shortened. Engine is in, i'm on a deadline now so don't have time to soda blast, paint etc just gave it a clean.

 

[tkent02]

You can put the coil wire back in. Search this site, there is information replacing coil wires.

 

[Guest]

Collo, I still have my two stock coils here I don't use any more.

Only catch is I took the connectors off that join to the harness to prepare for some generic connectors but never got around to it.

They have new spark plug caps on them too.

Not sure what they're worth so if you want them make me an offer via PM and I can post them down to you.

I had them sparking and working with my failed attempt at the HEI ignition so I assume they will still work... of course if they're no good I'll refund you the price of the coils and you can toss 'em in the bin... will only cost you some postage and a bit of time that way...

 

[Collo]

Cheers for the offer I'll se how I go. So what do you use now Pete if you don't have coils? I would like to get a newer electrical system too

 

[Guest]

No worries mate, just let me know. They're not going anywhere anytime soon.

I've got the Dynatek setup in mine which includes the Dynatek coils...

 

[Collo]

oh sweet sounds good. I'll PM you about it as I think that's the way I would like to go. Thanks again

 

[Guest]

No worries at all Collo. It's a pretty straight forward swap, just need a spacer and an extra wire for the oil pressure sensor.

 

[Collo]

Been looking through the threads, but does anyone know if the GS500 coils would work on the 450?

Might have to go the Dyna route otherwise.

 

[Guest]

Good question on the 500 coils, although I suspect they probably would. Depends what the primary resistance is I would guess.

However, I believe it is possible to retrofit an earlier GS500 ignition setup into our 450's by using the rotor etc. and getting rid of the mechanical advance.

If you could pick one up cheap enough it would be a cheaper option than the Dynatek, but I've not seen it done myself so I'm not 100% sure on how it would go...

For me, I'm happy with my Dynatek...

 

[Collo]

Hey Pete, thanks for the tips. I'd like the Dynatek but isn't it about $300? Got two 500 coils from USA for $26 delivered so hopefully they work. If not then I'll look at getting it too.

Progress photo, the engine is in and most things hooked up. Was stewing over the petcock not fitting because of the fuel line angle, but worked out eventually that it can be changed and now its not hitting the frame.

Not happy with the seat now it's touching the electrics and now that the tank has been lifted at the back about an inch and a half, it's not fitting as well.

 

[Guest]

I had to shuffle things around a little with the electrics tray as the indicator relay was interfering with the seat pan where I had it initially.

How is your electrics tray laid out under the seat?

That's the other bonus of the Dynatek, no ignitor module to locate... it's wholly contained behind the timing cover and goes straight to the coils.

I reckon what you need to do with the tank if you're going to leave it mounted like that is to fibreglass on some lower edges so the bottom lines up with the edge of the seat. That would also disguise the seam around the bottom of the tank, allowing it to blend in even better with the shape of the seat pan.

Oh, as for the Dynatek price, I think it'll be well over $400 for the DS3-3C kit... but there have been some kits go cheap on eBay in the US for around the $100 mark...

Hopefully the 500 coils work for you though.

 

[Collo]

So been spending some time on the bike, getting a fair bit done. Have hit an enormous wall!

Bike won't start, has power, has lights, has neutral light, brake light...everything but an attempt to kick over.

Also, the right coil gets super hot but not the left, swapped them, swapped cables and same thing, its the right side wiring which is weird as both read the same voltage.

Anyway, have stripped all the wiring off again and will start fresh, can't believe the original wiring on this thing it's crazy!

Pete, the Dynatek is sounding better as it's one less thing to connect to.

As for the rest of the bike, the oil is back in, gaskets done and rearsets somewhat.completed.

 

[Collo]

One other thing, which may be more appropriate in the electrical folder is:
Does the Reg/Rec need to be grounded by it's frame or just the black ground cable from it? Cheers

 

[Guest]

Bugger on the non starting!

Does the starter spin the motor and then just not fire up? Or does the starter not even spin the motor?

Could be a simple starter solenoid issue... either not grounded properly or buggered. Also make sure that big fat ground cable from one of the crankcase bolts has a good connection back to battery negative.

When you turn the ignition on on these, one of the coils will typically turn "on" and start charging, so if you leave the ignition on for a while, one will heat up.

Unless you've turned the motor over it will always be the same coil being turned "on" so will explain why it's always your right one.

That's not to say there isn't an issue, but if that's all that's happening, then it isn't an issue...

As for the R/R, you should be able to ground it just by the ground wire.

 

[Collo]

Thanks Pete you're always a big help and I think your right about the coil it seemed too weird to be wrong if that sounds right lol.

My grounding is a bolt through the frame under the seat, same as last time but I feel it may not have been enough, and no, the starter motor wouldn't even turn over. Used jump starter and same deal.

I'll try again soon, but re-wiring the harness seems like a good idea too. Lost the spring that goes in the neutral indicator, sprung out and never to be seen again. Have improvised with a pen spring but it's not quite right.