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Gs500

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
No progress yet. Its been raining all week.

I'm starting to lighten my load of extra parts.

If you guys need any of my engine parts for the Gsx400 or GS500 send me a pm.
 
We finally have some sun... been cloudy/rainy/drizzly most of the week. And of course I have other plans than riding this weekend :rolleyes:
 
Mekanix said:
No progress yet. Its been raining all week.

I'm starting to lighten my load of extra parts.

If you guys need any of my engine parts for the Gsx400 or GS500 send me a pm.
Click to expand...

Could you send some kind of a list, almost sure i will need parts

Thanks
 
Jetting

Had the DJ stuff in there with the restrictors removed.

Seemed to run just fine the way it is although I didn't come on to it, Just cruise and under 5000.

Threw the 150's in and tried it still with no restrictors.

Noticed it didn't rev quite as quick in neutral but still seemed to run fine.

Cruise was ok but felt a little sluggish as in I had to give it a bit more fuel and then back off to get to where I wanted.

But from cruise if I slap it wide open It loads up and seems to run one cylinder, ITs not but it just Feels like that for lack of a better explanation.
Its like trying to get on the gas and running out at the same time :P

Smooth transition works well.

I did actually get it to pull from 5-8--- really hard though with the 150's but couldn't stop to check the plugs.

I'm making a catalog of what I do and what the results are, I'll post the results.


Over on the GStwins site they recommend the stock slides and dj needles and 150 mains.

I have a feeling that its just the safe way to go.
 
One thing i did notice with the way it is, There is no smooth low throttle setting.

Its either stop or go from closed throttle to starting to be open. Kind of surprising sometimes.

I think its the slides opening too quickly.

And I think I need to do a synch again.
 
With CV carbs, the only thing that causes the slides to open is vacuum, which is caused by opening the butterfly valves, which are actuated by the throttle. Are you saying that it jerks open, or that it is rough off idle until the transition to the needle begins?
 
I've been experiencing that closed/open throttle thing too... it used to be really bad and kill my confidence in low speed manoeuvring where you have the throttle just cracked open.

Initially it was because I was so lean, but then after I got stuck into the jetting it was better but still a bit jerky.

I've kept fiddling and at the moment it feels pretty good and seems to have been the mixture screws being too rich.
 
Short thread hijack
Hey pete, how are those new mains working out?
They should make your mixture screws more accurate as well.
thread hijack over.
 
koolaid_kid said:
With CV carbs, the only thing that causes the slides to open is vacuum, which is caused by opening the butterfly valves, which are actuated by the throttle. Are you saying that it jerks open, or that it is rough off idle until the transition to the needle begins?
Click to expand...


I'm saying its like the initial 1/8 throttle feels like I went from nothing to 1/2 throttle with very little movement.
 
I understand. Since you have a 450/500, which throttle are you using?
 
500's, all parts are from the 500.

Needed tuning,

I synched the carbs and set the idle and air screw's. Still a little high off the fumes :dancing:

But i can say it seems to be related to the way it was. Still has the hickup while cruising and cracking it open but the bottom end start is smoother now.
 
koolaid_kid said:
Short thread hijack
Hey pete, how are those new mains working out?
They should make your mixture screws more accurate as well.
thread hijack over.
Click to expand...

Going great George, much better with the 145's than the 150's. Haven't done another dyno comparison but that gets a little expensive when you're not doing it as part of a group run...

Mekanix said:
500's, all parts are from the 500.

Needed tuning,

I synched the carbs and set the idle and air screw's. Still a little high off the fumes :dancing:

But i can say it seems to be related to the way it was. Still has the hickup while cruising and cracking it open but the bottom end start is smoother now.
Click to expand...

Mine's not too bad like that now, but definitely was like that when I had the 150 mains and needles on the richest setting... with the 145's, needle only raised one notch, and mixture screws leaner it's much improved. I'll be going 1/4 turn leaner again on the mixture screws to see if that makes it just that much better...
 
Well, cracking it open while cruising is the transition from the needle to the main. Personally, I'd be looking in that area, like dropping the needle a notch.
Good to hear it, pete. Didn't happen to get 140s did you?
For your mains, you can do a plug chop for a rough idea of how it is doing AFA being rich or not.
 
Going by the dyno chart, it wasn't that rich up top, so I think anything less than 145's would be too lean... the issue really was the needle... at 5K RPM the AFR ratio was off the chart :eek:

Finding a suitable location here for a WOT plug chop is next to impossible these days... a little too much of a nanny state now and that sort of thing is likely to get your bike confiscated under our "hooning" laws...
 
I'd hardly call ya a Revhead, Its only a weekend thing and only happens once really for tuning.

Just have to find someone will a good road and permission to use it.

I can't go WOT yet, at least not till I'm confident in the bottom end and new top end..

Checked the valves, What a pain that was.. Book says either put the lobes up or pointing away from the center. Well one way is ok and the other is tight on one lobe. On another its the oposite.

On one of them its less than the minimum spec but not touching the shim but put the lobe in the other position and its great :P

No idea what the hell is up with that but I have a feeling that I'm good for now to run it,, Might swap out the cam's later on to see the difference.

Had this weird scraping noise that I couldn't figure out. Turns out that the ignition cover I used didn't have the hole in the center so the bolt would hit and scratch the cover when ever the crank shifted a bit. So I added a gasket like the 400's have to the cover and that fixed that.

Turns out I have some cam walk. Nothing to care about though. The other cam's were the ones that needed the spacers.

Had the bike all apart outside and just got it put together seconds before the sky fell :P Got lucky there :P
 
koolaid_kid said:
Hoon. Had to look that one up. Why did they crack down so hard?
Click to expand...

Because the law's an ass... over here they like to legislate for the minority, so that way everyone gets screwed evenly. There's one particular copper who trawls a very popular motorcycling haven near here, and he will pull you over for the most minor issue whatsoever and book you for everything he can. He has had numerous complaints lodged against him but noone's ever had one stick... I avoid that particular area on the weekends for just that reason.

Anyway, basically because a minority have no sense of responsibility, they assume noone does, and therefore have decided that certain behaviour will get you labelled a "hoon" and you will have your vehicle confiscated.

I did however give the mixture screws another quarter turn lean today and she's much better again...

Mekanix said:
I'd hardly call ya a Revhead, Its only a weekend thing and only happens once really for tuning.

Just have to find someone will a good road and permission to use it.

I can't go WOT yet, at least not till I'm confident in the bottom end and new top end..

Checked the valves, What a pain that was.. Book says either put the lobes up or pointing away from the center. Well one way is ok and the other is tight on one lobe. On another its the oposite.

On one of them its less than the minimum spec but not touching the shim but put the lobe in the other position and its great :P

No idea what the hell is up with that but I have a feeling that I'm good for now to run it,, Might swap out the cam's later on to see the difference.

Had this weird scraping noise that I couldn't figure out. Turns out that the ignition cover I used didn't have the hole in the center so the bolt would hit and scratch the cover when ever the crank shifted a bit. So I added a gasket like the 400's have to the cover and that fixed that.

Turns out I have some cam walk. Nothing to care about though. The other cam's were the ones that needed the spacers.

Had the bike all apart outside and just got it put together seconds before the sky fell :P Got lucky there :P
Click to expand...

I find a similar thing with my valves... in fact the service before last I was convinced I was going to have to order another shim until I triple checked it, and then it had plenty of clearance... and I doubled checked it and all good... :confused:

I think if you are measuring one lobe while the other lobe is pushing down on its valve, it causes the one you are measuring to measure small. That's my theory at the present time anyway and I hope to prove/disprove it next service... My guess is the 4 cylinders don't see this behaviour because they only have 1 in 4 pressing down, so the effect on the other 3 would be much less. On ours with only 2, I imagine the leverage would be much more noticeable.

It's just a theory though...
 
Yup I reckon... I need to get about 15 minutes spare to give your method a final go over them to be sure but I'm pretty happy at the moment.

Idle has been a bit funny and if I spend too much time in the real low throttle openings in traffic I get some pops through the carbs and an occasional stall... that's the stuff I'm trying to dial out now and am finally getting some success.
 
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