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GS550 carbs removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter delwil123
  • Start date Start date
D

delwil123

Guest
Hi,I am new to my suzuki and to this forum so apologies if i make mistakes.
I recently bought my 1878 gs550 from a friend who hadn't used it for 10 years, not even kicked it over. After a good clean, new battery etc, the bike starts and runs well. Its very jerky at low speeds 1st gear 2nd gear when in a line of traffic,but when revving it sounds fine. I just wonder after all that time sitting if the carb jets would be better with a clean, and if so can i remove carbs all together without disturbing anything, and not as the book says one at a time. Maybe you think leave well alone.
Kind Regards
del
 
You remove the carbs as a bank of four. Move the rear mudguard back a tad then undo the airbox mounting bolts and clips at the carbs and pull the airbox backwards. Undo the carb clips on the front hoses, fuel etc lines and pull the whole lot out. I always pull them out to the right - not sure if you can get them out on the left as I've never tried.

Undo the cables and the carbs are now free. If you're cleaning them you need to do a proper job - shortcuts end in problems. Beware that you have two pilot jets in line on your carbs and they both have to come out.
 
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I know that different parts of the world get new models at different times, but you got yours a LOT earlier than we did. :-k
delwil123 said:
I recently bought my 1878 gs550 from a friend who hadn't used it for 10 years, ...
Click to expand...

delwil123 said:
..., and if so can i remove carbs all together without disturbing anything, and not as the book says one at a time. ...
Click to expand...
What book do you have that says to remove them one at a time? Throw it away, because it's physically impossible.

As hampshirehog says, move a few things out of the way first. There are two clips on the front edge of the rear fender (much like the posts on the side covers) that hold it to the frame. Pop those loose, move the fender back just a bit. Loosen the battery box, slide it back (not sure it goes as far as an inch, but every bit helps). You now might have enough room to also move the airbox back a bit, giving just enough room to get the carbs out.

.
 
its a haynes manuel ,which came with the bike. OOPS read it wrong,its separating them once they are off the bike
maybe this is not the correct forum to throw this in but,I've now done a cylinder pressure test. one cylinder says 98 the rest are 95/94. putting a small amount of oil in cyl it shoots up to 125.
which is supposed to mean rings are worn.Does anyone think with the bike sitting for 10 years it may be just the rings are seized, don't want to take it to bits as it runs ok and i hardly ever use it. I'm old.
 
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Yup,pull the carbs out the right side,when putting them back in hook the throttle cable up, with new fuel lines and vent lines,its a real bitch to hook up the cable once the carbs are in,also perfect time to check the condition of the carb boots. carbs go in nice and easy with new boots.
 
that PDF is great, everything you would need to know, many thanks everyone
 
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