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GS550e died and won't start again.

  • Thread starter Thread starter c0okiez
  • Start date Start date
C

c0okiez

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Went riding the other day, bike died while moving, just cut out. Go to hit the starter button and nothing (no click from the solenoid, nothing). So i jumped the starter relay posts and the bike cranks (but won't start). I towed it home to inspect the possible problem and i can't figure it out.
With the battery connect and the key on, the start button does nothing. I've tried both with the killswitch on and off and still there is no response from the bike. No click, no anything. The lights on the cluster [neutral, etc.] all come on with the key turned. The headlight/brake light/turns will not come on with the key turned however. I've checked the fuses/fusebox, replaced the starter solenoid, and multiple other things, but the bike refuses to do anything.
I came to the conclusion that there is a possible short/wire pinch somewhere, that occurred while i was riding; but i have no idea where to look that would cause all these problems.
 
Have you tried bypassing the clutch safety switch? (If your bike has one, I couldn't find a wiring diagram)

Edit: Never mind, it wouldn't explain the running lights not working.
 
Hi,

I would start by inspecting the entire wiring harness. Take off the seat, tank, and side covers and open up the headlight bucket. Inspect and clean every electrical connection you can find. Look for worn insulation or broken/melted connectors. Take the fuse box apart to clean and inspect. Have the battery load-tested. You can also perform passive tests on the charging system. See the electrical section of my little website for more suggestions. Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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Went for ride on old GSF600s other day,had no restart after ride,motor is buzzy runner,battery cable loosened up, was lucky to make it safe home before battery reserve depleted and cause stall like yours.I also have 83 GS550ES will keep eye on your posts.Glad you are safe...
 
As mentioned bypass the clutch safety switch and clean the kill switch.
 
i have cleaned and re-solders the connections on the kill switch, as well as cleaned/examined the entire fuse-box. the square headlight has been replaced long ago with dual rounds. and still the same scenario as before.
i am a frequent viewer of your site cliff, and ill speak for everyone when i say thanks for the work you've put into it.

where can one find the clutch safety switch?
 
You said it doesnt turn over and you dont have headlight and other lights.

The starter solenoid is on the Ignoition Fuse, and the headlight and other things are on the Headlight Fuse. So your problem is something that effects both circuits.

I would not suspect your clutch swtich which would only effect the starter solenoid, not the lights.

Try wiggiling the ignition key swtich. Try wiggling the connector on bottom side of the ignition switch.

Remove the tank, so can find more connectgors in the wiring harness.

Most bikes have lots of wiring connectors in the headlight housing, but I dont know aobut the S'es, and you say headlight is a custome setup.


Would be best to troubleshoot this with a voltmeter or test lamp probe (and a schematic) to find were are loosing the power.
You have voltmeter?

Maybe add your location to your profile (goto UserCP).

Short or pinched wire would blow fuse.
You are looking for an "open" wire or a disconnected wire. A meter will find that better than your eyeballs.



PS: To answer your question, the clutch swtich is on tghe bottom side of the clutch lever. But, again, that will not effect you light circuits.

.
 
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the gas tank has been removed, as well as the headlight has been loosened (but still connected/wired) to expose the giant cluster of wires.
i guess it may be time to break out the voltmeter to figure out what's going on here.
i'm not sure if i'm correct, but i'm not sure if the starter solenoid is regulated by the fusebox. It's hooked directly to the power wire from the battery, and the other post is grounded to the motor-ground. but it's just odd that it won't even click or do anything once the "start" button circuit is closed.
just trying to troubleshoot here: but if it was the ignition switch (key) why would the "dummies" lights pop up on the gauge cluster?
other than that, electrical stuff gives me a headache! and i don't even know where to begin to start looking again for broken wires.
 
Battery that is weak,low charged,almost dead etc. may still make lights glow,horn honk...but will not allow starter solenoid to even click.Check battery overall condition first,even if battery seems good,charge it to what appears full and have it load tested somewhere.
 
The "secondary" side of the solenoid has no over-current protection. The primary side should run through the ignition circuits IIRC. Check for voltage on both sides of all of your fuses.
 
i have charged the battery all day yesterday, on a 1.5A maintainer, and it appeared to be full. i guess ill get it load tested today and start rechecking all the connection with a voltmeter after the battery's tested.
 
irrc, i won't be able to run through the stator papers if the bike won't start, would I? charging isn't necessarily the issue right now for me.
 
You can do the static tests of the stator and the R/R with a DMM. But yeah, I think there's something else going on here. Do you have a wiring diagram for the bike? In addition to the two thick wires on the solenoid, there should be a small control terminal. Do you get voltage there when you hit the starter button?

Have you checked for voltage at all of the fuses (both sides)? I'll check your wiring diagram tonight after I get home, but from the battery current should flow through the main fuse only, then up to the ignition switch and back through 3 wires to the other fuses - ignition, signals, and lights. Sounds like your signal branch is getting current but maybe not the other two.
 
Batteries can really fake one out,did me many times,load test will tell its truest(I believe) condition and you can trouble shoot with more confidence from there.also Repeated no start attempts may foul/wet plugs and make the whole no start senario seem like it went really bonkers.Your process of elimination shall serve you well.You will show PIA new attitude.
 
i went ahead and just picked up a new battery (only $30) just to eliminate one of the possibilities while i wait for the old one to be tested. but i didn't get to work on the bike today because the battery wasn't available. but tomorrow ill get cracking on what's causing the bike to no respond to anything.
yes i have a wiring diagram for the bike, so im going to run through the chart and see if anything is wired up wrong as well.
 
okay, so now i know the battery's good. i go to try and crank it over, and it still does nothing. no clicks, no anything. the only thing i find after dismounting the head light is a single brown wire, disconnected from everything.
ive checked the wiring diagram and it shows they is a brown wire coming from the ignition switch but that wire is still connected, the only other brown wire on the front of the bike is for the signal light, but i can't seem to find where it has been disconnected from. this bike is killing me...
 
Check your wiring diagram carefully. I seem to recall an extra +12V brown lead in the bucket (of course mine is a 82 550, but I think it was a common thing). Guess that was there so it could be used for auxiliary lighting?

The loss of multiple circuits makes me think this is perhaps an issue with your ignition switch. So I will ask - now for the third time - have you checked your fuses for voltage with the ignition on? If you've lost voltage there, you only need to concern yourself with the wires going to the ignition switch and back, and the switch itself. Divide and conquer!
 
The brown wire goes nowhere. It is extra for a fairing.
I'd have a good look at the fuse block and the ignition switch.
Then check continuity on wires througout the harness.
Do you have a wiring diagram?
 
mike_of_bbg said:
Check your wiring diagram carefully. I seem to recall an extra +12V brown lead in the bucket (of course mine is a 82 550, but I think it was a common thing). Guess that was there so it could be used for auxiliary lighting?

The loss of multiple circuits makes me think this is perhaps an issue with your ignition switch. So I will ask - now for the third time - have you checked your fuses for voltage with the ignition on? If you've lost voltage there, you only need to concern yourself with the wires going to the ignition switch and back, and the switch itself. Divide and conquer!
Click to expand...
Seems to be an echo in here
;)
 
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