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GS550E valve question

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Hello, well today after work I finally checked my valve clearances, I have a tight( cylinder 2) intake and a tight exhaust (cylinder 3). I?ve been having troubles trying to get the bike to idle so I checked everything else except for the valves, now that I?ve checked them and I?ve got two tight ones I?m honestly not sure what the next step would be for tight valves, Thanks
 
Trolleywire said:
Hello, well today after work I finally checked my valve clearances, I have a tight( cylinder 2) intake and a tight exhaust (cylinder 3). I?ve been having troubles trying to get the bike to idle so I checked everything else except for the valves, now that I?ve checked them and I?ve got two tight ones I?m honestly not sure what the next step would be for tight valves, Thanks
Click to expand...

besides getting a shim tool and smaller shims. What is the stock shim size for the 550? I will have to pull out the shim and measure I guess and order smaller sizes?
 
Regarding the shim tool, I had good luck with the zip tie method, basically double over a zip tie and bend it into a hockey stick shape and place it in between the valve and seat while open. Then rotate the crank and out they come. Much easier IMO. I never liked the shim tool that sits on the edge of the bucket, that's how the Kawasaki Z's worked, not sure about Suzuki as I never had to buy one.

Trolleywire said:
besides getting a shim tool and smaller shims. What is the stock shim size for the 550? I will have to pull out the shim and measure I guess and order smaller sizes?
Click to expand...
 
oldGSfan said:
I never liked the shim tool that sits on the edge of the bucket, that's how the Kawasaki Z's worked, not sure about Suzuki as I never had to buy one.
Click to expand...
They work pretty much the same way. I have had the tool slip while the shim was not quite fully in place, which shattered the shim. I was very happy to see the zip-tie method, that's all I use now.
 
Last edited:
oldGSfan said:
Regarding the shim tool, I had good luck with the zip tie method, basically double over a zip tie and bend it into a hockey stick shape and place it in between the valve and seat while open. Then rotate the crank and out they come. Much easier IMO. I never liked the shim tool that sits on the edge of the bucket, that's how the Kawasaki Z's worked, not sure about Suzuki as I never had to buy one.
Click to expand...

interesting, do you have a diagram? I?m trying to picture it, thx.
 
phydeauxmutt said:
They work pretty much the same way. I have the tool slip while the shim was not quite fully in place, which shattered the shim. I was very happy to see the zip-tie method, that's all I use now.
Click to expand...

Ditto that.
Pre getting a shim tool, I was using bent screwdrivers and other assorted gymwhackery, but then I bought Motion Pro tool, and while it works, it's nothing like as restful and easy as the simple zip-tie.
 
Thanks for the tip guys!! Worked like a charm! Tomorrow after work I?ll go pick up some new shims. The (exhaust) shim in there was 2.70 and it was to tight so I?ll go down the next size. The rest were in spec but at the tighter end of the spectrum so I?ll do those as well.
 
Did my valves this evening. All in spec now. One was to tight (exhaust #3) tomorrow will get it running and see if that helps with it idling now. I have new boots, cleaned carb, tested coils, charged battery. I will find out tomorrow. Also should I adjust the screws on top of the carbs? Thx.
 
Ok, got the bike back together. Valves in spec. Started right up with the choke on, slowly tuned down choke until it was warm and finally off. Was idling high (much better thank before when it would not idle at all) and had to keep blipping the throttle or it would die as I was playing with turning it back up a bit. Once it dies it won?t start back up. I?m scratching my head. Valves done, good spark, new carb boots, cleaned carbs, battery charged? any thoughts why it?s (although a bit better with valves in spec) still has idle issues and won?t start back up? I would love to ride this bike. Thanks.
 
Maybe you’ve explained before and I missed it. How have you Completely cleaned the carbs? Using Ed Ness’s guide found on BikeCliffs Website? In other words, a complete tear-down and soak (in carb dip) of every metal component and replacement of every o-ring?
 
Rich82GS750TZ said:
Maybe you?ve explained before and I missed it. How have you Completely cleaned the carbs? Using Ed Ness?s guide found on BikeCliffs Website? In other words, a complete tear-down and soak (in carb dip) of every metal component and replacement of every o-ring?
Click to expand...

I dropped off my carbs to have them put in an ultrasonic cleaner, that should sort it out. Get them synced and try and get some rides in this summer. I?ll post some pics.
 
Trolleywire said:
I dropped off my carbs to have them put in an ultrasonic cleaner, that should sort it out. Get them synced and try and get some rides in this summer. I?ll post some pics.
Click to expand...

Hi again, well got my carbs back and it?s a little better, the idle is still a bit erratic? as soon as it dies it won?t start. Same problem as before. I?ve tried a lot to this bike, can?t figure it out. Im usually pretty patient but this has got me stumped.. they even adjusted the float heights as the said they were way off. Back to the drawing board.
 
Rich82GS750TZ said:
Maybe you?ve explained before and I missed it. How have you Completely cleaned the carbs? Using Ed Ness?s guide found on BikeCliffs Website? In other words, a complete tear-down and soak (in carb dip) of every metal component and replacement of every o-ring?
Click to expand...

Ultrasonic cleaning is good for the outside of the carbs, not the inside.
You have new boots - i take it the large o-rings on them are new, too ?

Next step would be to order a set of o-rings from Robert Barr and soak & clean the carbs.
See the carb rebuild manual in my sig.
 
roeme said:
Well, it did clean the passages on my carbs. Needed time though.
Click to expand...

That was lucky ... and since it needed time, it's probable that the extended soak in the cleaning liquid did most of the cleaning process of the passages.
My buddy had a shop specializing in cleaning carbs and he told me the ultrasonic waves through the liquid hit the outside of the carb and
that creates a tiny exploding air bubble, which blasts dirt off the carb.
But most cleaners are not powerful enough to stir dirt on the inside of a carb, let alone gummed up or dirt-blocked passages.
 
Rijko said:
That was lucky ... and since it needed time, it's probable that the extended soak in the cleaning liquid did most of the cleaning process of the passages.
My buddy had a shop specializing in cleaning carbs and he told me the ultrasonic waves through the liquid hit the outside of the carb and
that creates a tiny exploding air bubble, which blasts dirt off the carb.
But most cleaners are not powerful enough to stir dirt on the inside of a carb, let alone gummed up or dirt-blocked passages.
Click to expand...

The cleaning solution was distilled water with a squirt of liquid dish soap. That can't cut through dried out/varnished fuel. Maybe if you leave it soaking for centuries...

Your friend explained the gist of it correctly. But note that the ultrasonic waves travel don't magically stop at any orifices, just like the regular sound waves we humans can hear. Which also nicely highlights
that you'll need enough power. And ultrasonic transducers have become cheap; we've payed a few hundred bucks for our unit back then, similarly powerful units now can be had for a much better price.

Not cheap per se, you'll still have to pay a bit, but it's nowhere near the prices of yore.


Anyway, OP didn't let us know about the state of his O-Rings...and I'm not sure it's the carbs if the bike doesn't restart after coming up to temp. It did start and run, after all.
 
roeme said:
The cleaning solution was distilled water with a squirt of liquid dish soap. That can't cut through dried out/varnished fuel. Maybe if you leave it soaking for centuries...

Your friend explained the gist of it correctly. But note that the ultrasonic waves travel don't magically stop at any orifices, just like the regular sound waves we humans can hear. Which also nicely highlights
that you'll need enough power. And ultrasonic transducers have become cheap; we've payed a few hundred bucks for our unit back then, similarly powerful units now can be had for a much better price.

Not cheap per se, you'll still have to pay a bit, but it's nowhere near the prices of yore.


Anyway, OP didn't let us know about the state of his O-Rings...and I'm not sure it's the carbs if the bike doesn't restart after coming up to temp. It did start and run, after al l.
Click to expand...


hi, thanks for the replies. I did put new boots on with new o-rings that it came with.
 
Trolleywire said:
hi, thanks for the replies. I did put new boots on with new o-rings that it came with.
Click to expand...

looks like carbs off again. Have to get all the little o-rings it looks like? carb dip and some spray. If there is anything else causing my erratic idle and not starting when up to temp? Thx
 
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