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GS550E won't start after an oopsy

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS550ED
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GS550ED

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So latest in my newbie bike disasters was when I forgot to put out the side stand on my 1983 GS550ED and gravity taught me a lesson. It fell on its left side and visibly I only have superficial damage.

However, I snapped the clutch lever off of it's mounting and thus the clutch is stuck in the engaged position. I can still shift through the gears smoothly (?). I tried to start the bike after putting it into neutral but after flipping the switch and hitting the button nothing happens. It doesn't even try to turn.

Later, I put the fuel petcock to the PRIME position and put a screwdriver between the contacts on the starter solenoid (I know, that's a no-no) and it started right up.

What could be keeping my bike from starting itself normally? The side stand switch was not damaged, as it properly turns off the light when the stand is put up. Despite this, it seems like something electrical is "telling" my bike not to start. Anyone have any suggestions? Or just want to tell me I'm an idiot for dropping my old girl?
 
Clutch lever position switch is preventing the starter from getting juice. A safety feature. Replace the clutch lever and you'll be good as new.
 
Clutch lever position switch is preventing the starter from getting juice. A safety feature. Replace the clutch lever and you'll be good as new.

IT HAS A SWITCH FOR THAT?

(excuse my caps lock, but I was incredulous after reading your post)

Wow! That makes me feel a whole lot better. I guess now its just a waiting game until my new clutch lever comes in. Thanks a lot for the reassurance!
 
IT HAS A SWITCH FOR THAT?

(excuse my caps lock, but I was incredulous after reading your post)

Wow! That makes me feel a whole lot better. I guess now its just a waiting game until my new clutch lever comes in. Thanks a lot for the reassurance!


You can bypass the switch in the harness I think the wires are yellow. Regardless simply trace the wires fromt he clutch lever switch to the connectors.
 
You can bypass the switch in the harness I think the wires are yellow. Regardless simply trace the wires fromt he clutch lever switch to the connectors.

In the attachment in this post I have a picture of the clutch lever assembly. Is the area circled in red the parts associated with the clutch lever position switch?

Also the blue line is the line of breakage where my clutch lever snapped off. Part of the lever is still in in the bracket on the handlebar.

In any case, I may just bypass it like you said. If not, I'll just wait for my new lever. Thanks a lot for the help.
 
That's the switch. You unplug the harness it connects to inside the headlight and plug the two ends together. They even made one male and one female so it's easy to connect. No more clutch safety switch.

A lot of us disconnect this safety switch because it's dangerous.
 
That's the switch. You unplug the harness it connects to inside the headlight and plug the two ends together. They even made one male and one female so it's easy to connect. No more clutch safety switch.

A lot of us disconnect this safety switch because it's dangerous.

Wow, I guess there is a good reason for the entire bike's electrical system to be made of those little bullet connectors. I'll fish around inside the headlight housing and connect them together. It's yellow, right?
 
Can't remember, but it's the wire pair that comes from the clutch switch. Same colors on the harness.
 
I just got ahold of the bike an hour ago. (It had been dropped in a parking lot so I had to get a friend with a pickup to help me retrieve it)

You all were absolutely right. The switch was preventing the bike from starting. I put it up on its center stand, bypassed the switch, and got the bike running on the first try. Thank you all for the insight; I couldn't ask for a better group of bike enthusiasts even had I taken it to a mechanic!

Now I'm considering leaving it bypassed. What are the benefits of this? It seems to me that it's a good thing that the bike will shut itself off should the clutch become damaged?

edit: By the way, the wires are yellow with a green stripe, for the record.
 
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Now I'm considering leaving it bypassed. What are the benefits of this? It seems to me that it's a good thing that the bike will shut itself off should the clutch become damaged?
The benefits are a bit better for those who have bikes that are '81 or older. On those bikes, you have to hold the clutch with your left hand, pull the "choke" knob out the center of the steering stem with your right hand, and bump the starter button with your elbow. :eek:

Eliminating the clutch switch from the equation means you can use your left hand on the "choke" and your right thumb on the starter button.

For those with '82 and newer bikes, it's not as important, because your "choke" is operated by your left thumb, under the switch housing. That is relatively easy to do while holding the clutch, but it's still a nuisance.

You just have to be REAL sure that the bike is in neutral before hitting the starter button now.


Oh, the bike will not shut itself off when the clutch is damaged.
noway.gif


It may have flooded out and stopped, but nothing killed it because it tipped over.


.
 
The benefits are a bit better for those who have bikes that are '81 or older. On those bikes, you have to hold the clutch with your left hand, pull the "choke" knob out the center of the steering stem with your right hand, and bump the starter button with your elbow. :eek:

Eliminating the clutch switch from the equation means you can use your left hand on the "choke" and your right thumb on the starter button.

For those with '82 and newer bikes, it's not as important, because your "choke" is operated by your left thumb, under the switch housing. That is relatively easy to do while holding the clutch, but it's still a nuisance.

You just have to be REAL sure that the bike is in neutral before hitting the starter button now.


Oh, the bike will not shut itself off when the clutch is damaged.
noway.gif


It may have flooded out and stopped, but nothing killed it because it tipped over.


.

I just figured that should this happen again (say in an actual crash) and the clutch lever gets torn off again, it would act like a kill-switch. But from what you say, am I right in assuming that the switch only closes the start circuit, and not the run circuit? So it wouldn't really help in a wreck.

My bike is an '83, and so I don't have much trouble getting it running when choke is necesary, so I may keep the switch engaged. However, at least now I know of its existence and am aware of it!
 
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