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gs550l carb w/pics.

  • Thread starter Thread starter bexabarr
  • Start date Start date
B

bexabarr

Guest
Hi everyone I'm new here, and quite unexperienced.

I have a few questions, for which I have inserted a few pictures- since I am a visual learner... I'm sure other newbies will appreciate it too.

These pics are off the carburetors of a 1979 gs550l- I know these are a bit different than latter years that is why I'm a bit confused what is what.

Can someone go over the names for me and let me know if they need to be adjusted in any way (how many turns, if there is anything missing ect...). I didn't include the air screw (but that should be adjusted at two turns right??)

I'm sure that many of you are tiered of answering all these simple questions- I just needed to see it visually... Thanks a ahead of time!!

and ignore the grease on the gasket or other 'impurities' ... i'm replacing most of these.
carb1.jpg


carb.jpg
 
i dont know your carbs, and am no expert either, but i'll give it a try
thanks for the clear picture.

this is what it seems like to me:
1-2-3 look like main jets (though 1 and 3 are round and 2 is hex, i think mikuni made both) they were not all in the same carb right? they screw into the bottom of the emulsion tube.
4 looks very much like an emulsion tube (the thing that the needle slides up-down in.
5 is the idle jet
6 is the idle adjuster screw (mixture screw)
7 is the float
8 is the float valve (sits in a float valve seal and controls fuel flow)
9 might be your main jet in which case im wrong about 1-2-3, or the float bowl drain plug (its sideways so i cant see)
10 would be your carb body
 
Hey thanks!

Well I wanted to know what the metal intake? (#10) was that goes into the carburetor botom part (where the arrows are shown). I tried to clean that area out (bottom picture) ... it looks like I'm going to have to dip it.

The picture are shown relative to the carb body, 1 goes within 2 and 5 goes in first then 3. etc...

simpler question... does the idle adjustment (6) and the idle jet 5 need any special adjustments?
 
If I'm interpreting your picture correctly, #10 is your choke tube, take your choke assembly out and blow carb cleaner through that brass straw. Your second pic with arrows shows the place where your choke pickup gets it's gas, it has to be clear and gas has to get thru it. put your carb cleaner hose in the hole, look the other way and spray till it comes out the other hole pictured with the arrows. If it's not open the choke won't work.
 
the idle jet is not adjustable, but replaceable, the air screw (6) is however, and it should be spring mounted. dont know what the adjustment spec is for your carb/bike, sorry
 
You've got 10 parts there and 10 numbers, but the numbers are not all next to a part. The float pin has no number and the needle jet has a 2 on one side and a 4 on the other. :?
1 is the main jet...
2 (?) the long brass tube with an o-ring, is the needle jet/bleed pipe/ emulsion tube...
3 and 5 are the pilot jet, though you have two seperate parts. You said 3 follows 5, so the two parts must comprise the pilot jet. 3 being the actual jet and 5 being the atomizing part...
your "4" has no part next to it...
6 is the pilot fuel screw, this needs to be set correctly. Turning it out will richen the mixture. Yours has the spring missing. The spring is so vibrations can't move the screw. If you can't locate the spring, a drop of light duty sealant/silicone above the screw will substitute or a very small amount of light duty sealant on the threads. Hopefully, you kept a record of the pilot fuel screw settings for each cylinder as they are sensitive and must go back VERY close to where they were, provided the bike was running well...
7 is the float and its pin...
8 is the float valve needle, do not mix them up, they wear as a "unit" and go back in their same valve seat...
9 is the float valve seat, yours appears to be missing the gasket or washer. It will leak without the gasket/washer.
10 was described well by arveejay.
Your side air screw, not pictured, is very important to performance. It should be set using the highest rpm method. They will generally end up about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns out.
I suggest replacing any hard o-rings by contacting Robert Barr, a member here. He has a very good price.
Also, I suggest replacing the manifold o-rings.
 
I just wanted to thank everyone for this great site... it's given me the opportunity to have the confidence to screw with things (even when they are not broken).. though the consequences have been less than desirable... (motorcycle that will not start... :? :evil: ) I have learned a great amount and expect to learn a great deal more 8) .

and thanks for the replies on this post. I'm going on a trip for a week.. so I wanted to thank people before hand.
 
OK. Let us know if you have more questions.
For example: your VM carbs must be bench synched and then vacuum tool synched after disturbing the jet needles. The procedure must be done correctly or the carbs won't operate well.
Enjoy your trip! :)
 
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