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gs550l stator

  • Thread starter Thread starter 85gs550l
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8

85gs550l

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So I did the tests on my stature and its not making the right amount of ac voltage. I found several on different sites, but is there a recommend place to buy a stator for an 85gs550l?
 
Hi,

Shop around and find the best price on a Rick's Electrics stator for your bike. Several vendors sell them for a little less than the Rick's website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I ordered through the place I worked in high school. They give me wholesale price so my Ricks stator should be reasonably priced. :D thanks for the reassurance on brand choice.
 
I replaced the stator and tested it, it works in making about 70 acv and dead even between the 3 wires. I also checked/cleaned/replaced all of the connections in the charging system. At 4k rpms, the charge at the battery is 13.3 dcv. Is that enough? Or should there be more?
 
I replaced the stator and tested it, it works in making about 70 acv and dead even between the 3 wires. I also checked/cleaned/replaced all of the connections in the charging system. At 4k rpms, the charge at the battery is 13.3 dcv. Is that enough? Or should there be more?
More would be nice! what reading do you get at 2k rpm? Do you have any non stock electrical loads- extra lights, etc.?
 
It's more around 13.4 or 13.5 at 2k. Nothing extra on the bike, all stock. Since I should look to see more as you say, the only thing left to cause the issue is the r/r. So is there a way to test the r/r?
 
Last edited:
Hi,

You still have corrosion and voltage loss in your wiring harness. Clean the fuse box and all connectors and grounds. Connect the ground wire from the r/r unit directly to the negative terminal of the battery. See all of the supplemental charging system tests in the electrical section of my little website. The main thing you want to check is the voltage loss between the r/r output and the positive battery terminal. Clean/replace all related connections.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
It's more around 13.4 or 13.5 at 2k. Nothing extra on the bike, all stock. Since I should look to see more as you say, the only thing left to cause the issue is the r/r. So is there a way to test the r/r?
You are already testing the R/R ! I assume your testing was done with lights on.You're sure about clean connections? If you leave your bike overnight and measure its resting voltage, what do you get? A decent battery will hold 12.6 volts for a few days.Anyways, 13.2 v or above will charge a 12v battery, so your R/R is working, although some folks would like it closer to 14 volts.
 
Hi,

You still have corrosion and voltage loss in your wiring harness. Clean the fuse box and all connectors and grounds. Connect the ground wire from the r/r unit directly to the negative terminal of the battery. See all of the supplemental charging system tests in the electrical section of my little website. The main thing you want to check is the voltage loss between the r/r output and the positive battery terminal. Clean/replace all related connections.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

I cleaned everything except the fuse box already, so I will do that. I also did move the ground wire directly to battery - as well. If there is a voltage drop from the r/r to b+, can I run a wire straight there or does it need to go elsewhere first?

You are already testing the R/R ! I assume your testing was done with lights on.You're sure about clean connections? If you leave your bike overnight and measure its resting voltage, what do you get? A decent battery will hold 12.6 volts for a few days.Anyways, 13.2 v or above will charge a 12v battery, so your R/R is working, although some folks would like it closer to 14 volts.

Testing was done lights on. I'll do a little more poking around abd post what I find.
 
Hi,

If there is a voltage drop from the r/r to b+, can I run a wire straight there or does it need to go elsewhere first?

Yes, clean the fuse box and re-solder the crimp connections on the back. Make sure it has a clean ground. That should help a lot. If not...

You can run the r/r output directly to the battery. But you need to put a 15 amp fuse inline. The r/r output normally connects to the solenoid, the same terminal as the battery positive. If you connect the r/r output directly to the (+) battery, make sure the (+) solenoid is also connected to the (+) battery.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Ok. No excessive voltage drop from regulator to battery. So i know what rose i need now too. Any one place better than others to get a r/r? And moat urgent, will it huet anything to ride with a so-so regulator? Will it hurt the stator or any other components?
 
I would be careful riding with a "so so" regulator. I had a bad one a while back and I'm pretty sure that's what cooked my stator in the first place. Once my stator went I was barely charging enough to keep running. :(
 
Good deal. I out about 40 miles on last night. It ran great and was great to ride! I think in really going to like this bike.
 
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