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GS650G still ticks after valve job

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bortasqu
  • Start date Start date
B

Bortasqu

Guest
Hey.
So I adjusted the valves the other day to be all in specifications before doing any fine tuning on the carbs, but I still get this ticking sound from the engine. #4 Exhaust is very cold unlike the rest when the bike starts and has warmed up in a few minutes, so that's something to go after I guess. The valve buckets can be moved freely with the shim in it.

Any ideas?
 
Are you saying #4 eventually warms up?

Separately from that issue, could the ticking sound be an exhaust leak between the pipe and head?
 
Not that it matters much for diagnosing your situation, but you are talking about #4, the one under your throttle hand?

Have you cleaned the carbs? A dirty "choke" pickup tube will keep gas from flowing while the "choke" is engaged, keeping the pipe cold.

Have you synchronized the carbs? If #4 is closed more than the other carbs, it won't have enough fuel/air mix to burn, keeping the pipe cold.

Is the tick a steady tick? Does it go up and down with engine speed? The valve clearance on these engines is so small, you won't really hear any ticking until they are grossly out of spec. It is more likely that it is an exhaust leak, as steve murdoch has suggested, or it could be the sound of uneven running because of dirty or unsynchronized carbs.

.
 
steve murdoch said:
Are you saying #4 eventually warms up?

Separately from that issue, could the ticking sound be an exhaust leak between the pipe and head?
Click to expand...

#4 gets almost varm as the palm, not much more. Hmm exhaust leak, now you're onto something. I can feel this, strange tiny puffs of air from the exhaust side, but thats at #3'ish.

Steve said:
Not that it matters much for diagnosing your situation, but you are talking about #4, the one under your throttle hand?

Have you cleaned the carbs? A dirty "choke" pickup tube will keep gas from flowing while the "choke" is engaged, keeping the pipe cold.

Have you synchronized the carbs? If #4 is closed more than the other carbs, it won't have enough fuel/air mix to burn, keeping the pipe cold.

Is the tick a steady tick? Does it go up and down with engine speed? The valve clearance on these engines is so small, you won't really hear any ticking until they are grossly out of spec. It is more likely that it is an exhaust leak, as steve murdoch has suggested, or it could be the sound of uneven running because of dirty or unsynchronized carbs.

.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I can grab the #4 exhaust under the throttle side with my palm and hold it there with the engine running.
The carbs are cleaned. Trice, even the choke rubber o-rings. I was told to do the valve job first, and then tune the carbs perfectly after. Now they're just so and so.
It is a steady tick that counts with the clock and engine at the same time at idle, but the ticking fades when the engine is reved up.
 
Bortasqu said:
#4 gets almost varm as the palm, not much more. Hmm exhaust leak, now you're onto something. I can feel this, strange tiny puffs of air from the exhaust side, but thats at #3'ish.



Yeah, I can grab the #4 exhaust under the throttle side with my palm and hold it there with the engine running.
The carbs are cleaned. Trice, even the choke rubber o-rings. I was told to do the valve job first, and then tune the carbs perfectly after. Now they're just so and so.
It is a steady tick that counts with the clock and engine at the same time at idle, but the ticking fades when the engine is reved up.
Click to expand...

Cold pipes are usually plugged pilot jets. The hole at the end is VERY small. If it is hot after some half throttle + riding that is the best possibility.
 
If the exhaust is cold on # 4 cyl. that means it is not firing,No BANG to creat normal heat. The noise could be something in the value train holding value open,so when cam comes around it slaps the shim. Would also cause cyl not tofire an cold pipe.
 
Have you done a carb sync yet? :-k

#4 might simply be cold because it's not open enough to flow anything.

Yes, it could still be a plugged jet or passage in the carb, but it might be as simple as a sync issue.

.
 
Hey, sorry for the extremely late reply.

I haven't done any carb sync yet, other than to turn the fuel mix screws 2 turns out from bottom. (The 4 tiny mix screws). I don't have any carb sync tool, and kinda thight on the budget.
 
Bortasqu said:
I haven't done any carb sync yet, other than to turn the fuel mix screws 2 turns out from bottom. (The 4 tiny mix screws). I don't have any carb sync tool, and kinda thight on the budget.
Click to expand...
Hopefully, you are talking about the screws that are on top of the carb outlet (engine side of carbs). 2 turns might be just a bit more than factory setting, but it might not be quite enough. Try another turn, making it 3 full turns. This will richen up the mixture a bit, letting it start easier. You should also find that you won't need as much "choke" to start the bike. An engine will run better with a mixture that is a little to rich than it will with a mixture that is a little too lean.

Get a set of gauges, sync the carbs as soon as possible. After the carbs are synchronized, slowly turn the mixture screws in (one at a time) until you hear the engine slow down a bit, then back it out about 1/4 turn. Repeat on the other carbs. When you have done them all, start over, going slowly to make sure that 1/4 turn still slows the engine down a bit. When it slows, back out 1/8 turn, repeat on the other carbs. Verify that you have crisp throttle response when cranking the throttle and that you have a nice, even return to idle speed when you release the throttle.

.
 
Have you checked the HT lead and cap ?
A leaking spark will tick tick tick and is easier to hear at idle.
Run it in the dark.
 
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