• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

GS700ES carb Issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
I bought the bike 3 weeks ago, and it ran. The carbs were backfiring at low end, and idle. It ran really strong at 5,000+RPM's though. Well being the smart guy I am I took the carbs off the bike, took the top caps off, and the bottom float bowls. I cleaned it all out ( though I want to do it again and use the wire peice to clean out the small areas). Now I put them back on the bike, and I can not get it to start, and when it does( on full choke) it idles a bit, then dies when you give it any hint of gas. Then I left the petcock on prime and it drained onto the garage floor overnight(nice)
 
Take em off and clean them up again. Take out the idle jets and make sure they're clean. You also have a stuck float, or a floats sinking, or have a bad o-ring on the float valve. You'll want to change your oil, as some gas probably got mixed in with your oil when it overflowed. Gas is not a good lube. If you're willing to do this the right way (not the quick fix way) check out the carb cleaning series. http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
 
Thanks

Thanks

I figured that would be the place to start. Any ideas of a good soaking solution to really clean them good?
I will be tearing them off, and going through them completly tonight.
I just don't want to mess with the settings or anything, as I do not yet have a manual. any advice there?
 
Chemtool B-12 can be bought at most auto parts stores and works very well for cleaning the carbs. What kind of bike and carbs do you have? The carb settings are different for the different types of carbs, so you need to let people know what you have. If you have the CV type carbs that are shown on the carb rebuild the only two settings you need to worry about are the air fuel mix screw that you have to drill the lead cap out of should be around 2.5 turns out and the throttle setting screw for syncing them. I haven't put mine back on my bike yet so can't help you much further, but there are plenty of posts on pre sync'n the carbs just do a search on it.
 
1985 GS700ES, Assuming I have Mikuni Carbs?

1985 GS700ES, Assuming I have Mikuni Carbs?

I need to drill out the cap? Very Carfefully I assume.
I have been told from the prior owner that the bike has some UNI parts( racing set up I am assuming), I think he mentioned a UNI cam.
Thanks for the Heads up on the carb cleaner/soaker.
Yes my carbs are very similar to the ones in the Carb Cleaning tips, which I am going to follow this time. Does it note in there where the cap is that I need to drill out?
 
This is about the best photo of where it is and yes be very careful when you drill it out. It's lead so it should come out pretty easy.
025_Prepare%20to%20remove%20air%20screw.jpg
 
Yes it does, when you take out the caps be careful, the screw is right under them, and you don't want to bugger it up. If you want any specific stock settings PM me, and I'll look it up in my manual. As for a UNI cam, I didn't know they made cams, but they do make air filters, so he may have had UNI pod filters. While you're in there, check out what jets you have, it should be stamped on them.
 
Yes it does have the Pod Filters, is that going to affect my carb settings. I am getting a lot of sputtering out of # 3 Carb, when it starts.
Can I clean the UNI pod filters with the K&N recharge kit? I assume it would be the same type.
 
cap removal

cap removal

Use a small drill bit and then use a sheetmetal screw to pull it out.
 
85 GS700ES fuel lines

85 GS700ES fuel lines

It is not one that I can take out with a correct fitting screwdriver I take it?
Also. Can anyone let me know the hookups for the gas lines.
I know there is one to the vacum(smaller side of the petcock) that connects to the # 2 Carb Correct, then the main fuel line. I think I have the wrong one hooked up, somewhere becuase it seems as though I have a massive vacum problem, when I tap the throttle at all.
If someone could tell me where the lines run too, on the 85GS700 I would appreciate it
Thanks
JB
 
The smaller line from #2 is the vacuum line and hooks up to the smaller fitting on the petcock. The larger line coming from the carbs hooks up to the larger fitting on the petcock.
 
Billy, I still have one more line hanging out there somewhere?
Whats up with that? any ideas. There is a connection on the #1 carb that I have the line going to from #2. Yet I still have two lines hooked up to the tank? am I missing something here. I appreciate all the help you guys are offering. I wish I was not at this #)*# Desk, and in front of my bike fixing my mistake, lol.
I now know that I need to switch the line from Carb #2 to the tank, (small side) but what hooks up to Carb #1, is it just a runoff?
 
Sounds like you're confusing vent lines with fuel lines. You should have a couple of vent lines that allow air into the bowls and take care of any overflow to the bowls. Most likely between numbers 1 & 2 and 3 & 4. The vacuum line is the one on the cylinder side of #2. Then the largest line is the fuel line. If you have vent lines connected just run them down behind the motor and in front of the swingarm pivot.
 
THANK YOU

THANK YOU

I went home last night, hooked up the Vacum line to the small side of the Petcock, and removed the vent line I HAD hooked up there. Started right up,(only ran it for less than a minute;See below) imagine that. Turns out I did a pretty good cleaning of the carbs I guess.
THEN I changed the FULL OF GASOLINE OIL, it was very runny with all the oil.
Now here is the new problem, the oil filter o ring.
I can not get a good seal on the new o ring, after replacing the oil filter. Two times now it has sprayed oil across the driveway(which the wife is none to thrilled about,lol)
I think i am not getting enough tourqe on the small cap bolts on there
 
You don't need to tighten the oil filter cover too much. After the nuts seat the cover you'll just want to turn them a little bit more, otherwise something will break. Your leak could be an o-ring with a little cut in it or dirt between the cover and the case. I've had both now but I never had oil spraying, just a few drips under the bike after shutdown.

Good work with the carbs, I think I've got mine figured out as well but time will tell. :)

Steve
 
Re: THANK YOU

Re: THANK YOU

Classicrentals said:
. Two times now it has sprayed oil across the driveway(which the wife is none to thrilled about,lol)
Click to expand...

Now that you have your bike running, what do you need a wife for? :) :) :) :)

Terry
 
Ha ha

Ha ha

Yea, she would love to see that one.
But now that I think about it, I should get the bike in a bit better shape, before I get rid of the second income, lol
 
Classicrentals, I always do 2 things regarding the filter cover o-ring when changing the oil on my 1983 GS750ES (i.e. essentially the same as your bike):
1) Use a new o-ring (they are cheap).
2) Put a little bit of new oil in the recessed groove in the filter cap that holds the o-ring. This helps hold the o-ring in place while replacing the cap. It sounds like your o-ring may have slipped out of the groove.

Also, NEVER over-tighten the 3 filter cover nuts....just snug them up. There have been a number of posts here about people "giving the nuts one last turn" and stripping either the nut or the stud. You don't have to tighten the nuts hard to get an oil-tight seal. If you are worried about them backing off while riding, clean the threads and nuts and apply a little Loctite "blue" thread locker.
 
Yea

Yea

I think that one last turn got to me. The top nut turns like a plastic bottle cap, tightens up, then on the next turn is loose again. So I may have done the damage. We have a shop in the next town, Called ACME nut and bolt. They have EVERYTHING. So I think I may get a new stud and nut there? I will take the old, but do you have any idea what I should be looking for.
I will definetly replace the o ring(again) as I pinched the new one I put in.
Thanks. This site is making my life a lot easier. I appreciate it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top