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gs750&1000 How to renew crank primary drivegear?

  • Thread starter Thread starter gsman
  • Start date Start date
G

gsman

Guest
Hi everyone!

How hard is it to dismantle the crankshaft so that I can
change the primary drive gear with another?
It seems to me as I only have to remove the outher right with
the number four cylinder rod but a little unsure here.

According to different parts drawings the primary gear are
atttached with bolts.

This is also a question that are similar for GS750 or other
GS so anybody of you guys who know something about this?

I have a hydraulic press available if that is needed for the job
but anyway I wanted to ask if some of you has done this
before and have some experience how to do it safely.

In advance,
Thank you.

gsman
 
The reasons could be different but one reason
is that you can put in a straight cut gear with a corresponding
clutch hub which have less friction than the helical standard
gears.

There are more options in my opinion on aftermarked
parts with straight cut gears if you also at the same time
want to get rid of the rattle tendency of the stock clutch.
Lot of companies that offer reinforced clutch kits and
that also is straight cut to eliminate the sideload and
friction.

I have not mentioned anything about cost here,
but just want an answer IF someone know how
difficult it is to get the primary drive off
the crank.

The primary drive is listed at the suzuki parts list
so there have to be some mechanic or other
who know somewhere out there.

I just want a simple explanation, so is it
anybody who knows?

wiserman
 
Just an update,when I said hub in my last post I mean the entire basket
who are attached to the big gear that mates to the crankshaft primary.
The springs on the backplate on this basket often comes loose
which already some may know.Also what to look for is back and
forth play in the center of hub to countershaft.

gsman
 
My last GS1000 had a heavy duty clutch backing plate w/stronger springs and the clutch action was vastly improved over the stock clutch. A very worth upgrade that provides tangible improvements.

I have no idea what's involved with splitting apart the crank and can't remember ever reading a thread here from someone that did. GS roller bearing cranks are extremely reliable, other than the 1100's with the small taper end and the early cranks that were not welded. Some of the hot rod guys that are running big HP swap out the helical gears for straight cut gears but that's not a common mod per say. For a road going bike going to straight cut gears seems like an answer to a question that nobody asked before. Yes, helical gears result in thrust loads but that's not a problem really. As a bonus the helical gears are quieter and stronger, although strength is in itself not an issue.
 
Last edited:
Ok gsman, I build big street GS motors & race engines. There are only THREE places I will send a roller bearing GS crank for work, Pearson Racing in Ohio, Gardner Racing Crankshafts in Maine & Accurate Crankshafts in Florida. I wouldn't send my lawnmower crank to Falicon!!!! The 3 above are the only ones I use & they know what they are doing, are honest & do good work. I will do straight cut gears on a street engine if the customer has that in their budget, usually they don't. By the time you get the crank & clutch hub built, along with the cost of the straight cut gears, you are looking at 1500 plus. An 1166 4 valve motor will make 140 hp at the rear wheel with ride across country reliability with a stock crank & helical gears. Feel free to call me at 714-356-7845 if you want more information. I build clutch hubs & know what is involved with that also.
Ray.
 
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