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GS750 running way to rich no matter what I adjust

  • Thread starter Thread starter xenoz
  • Start date Start date
The original jets were drilled out by the PO to get it running. I know him personally and didn't find out until after I paid him. That's why I bought a rebuild kit in the first place.

I think I have the dynojet rebuild kit because the needles are alot sharper and brass.

The carbs are synced, first thing I did after the rebuild. Then I put the colortune on it and have been trying to tune em since.

The airbox sealing might be why I have different readings on my plugs because the 1&2 boots have a better seal.

Ordered the 'right' (size 100 from jcwhitney) jets. I hope they work out.

I only want to put pods on for looks really.

What I would like to do is fab a cleaner/slimmer airbox and run the standard airfilter.

Also where is my engine number?
 
Last edited:
If you're using carbs off a '78 750 then the engine # doesn't matter. You should have a Mikuni 100 main, although mine had a 102.5 in there before I re-jetted for pods.
 
Engine # location.

P1000328.JPG
 
a local vintage enthusiast and i have talked about pods and velocity stacks for some time i found taping the pods 3/4 of the cone and then putting a pre charger or filter cover on hides the tape and restricts air flow he is a machinist so had to 1 up me by machining a disc that fits in the carb with a whole cut out near the bottom and his theory worked well with the velocity stacks he used on his 1100 both of these methods where tried with no jet changes as far as the size of the whole in the disk would vary from engine to engine and im not sure what size his is. i like taping better because its easier to tune take some tape off or put it back on and cover it with a filter bag or precharger when i tape mine i tape it once with the sticky side up and again with the sticky side down so i dont get sticky stuff stuck to the filter element. i was wondering what you gsers think about these theory's since you are all knowledgeable and i respect your opinion
 
I got the new jets today and they are genuine mikuni 100s

Tomorrow I'll go for a put and post pics of the plugs.

I sealed the airbox as well
 
taping your pods ? seriously ?

just buy a jet kit, or keep your airbox.
 
bubby said:
a local vintage enthusiast and i have talked about pods and velocity stacks for some time i found taping the pods 3/4 of the cone and then putting a pre charger or filter cover on hides the tape and restricts air flow he is a machinist so had to 1 up me by machining a disc that fits in the carb with a whole cut out near the bottom and his theory worked well with the velocity stacks he used on his 1100 both of these methods where tried with no jet changes as far as the size of the whole in the disk would vary from engine to engine and im not sure what size his is. i like taping better because its easier to tune take some tape off or put it back on and cover it with a filter bag or precharger when i tape mine i tape it once with the sticky side up and again with the sticky side down so i dont get sticky stuff stuck to the filter element. i was wondering what you gsers think about these theory's since you are all knowledgeable and i respect your opinion
Click to expand...

Sounds like a lot of redneck engineering to obatain the airflow engineered into the stock airbox
 
So uh.. I was looking at the needles..

and uh.. I fixed my problem.

Put the old needles back in...

Runs like a raped ape now lol..


IMG_20120815_171758.jpg
 
If I goose the throttle to around 1/3 open it bogs really bad, heard this was probably the rectifier/stator and not the carbs.

Can anybody confirm if thats true?
 
xenoz said:
If I goose the throttle to around 1/3 open it bogs really bad, heard this was probably the rectifier/stator and not the carbs.

Can anybody confirm if thats true?
Click to expand...

Noooo....not charging system.
 
With VM carburetors if you are idling and open the throttle quickly, you should get immediate response. On the road, it's rpm dependent. If your rpm's are too low, opening the throttle quickly will cause it to bog. If your rpm is high enough, it will continue to roll on. These are 30 year old carburetors, not modern fuel injection. Starting in first, you should be able to open the throttle as fast as you like and continue in each gear to red line. Any other operation is just poorly adjusted or jetted carburetors.
 
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