GS750 single disc upgrade material

[Guest]

Hi,
Is is possible to upgrade the single disc?
The rotor seems to be original RVS, changing to semi-metallic or ceramic pads wouldn't help?
Calipers from a Kawasaki , i can't find any more.
Has someone information to upgrade this bad brake system ( not in 2 disc)

second,
I did check the alternator , regulator by book (DON'T DO THIS AT HOME)
It did burned my neutral light, oil light and (it sucks) my TCI, I'm still wondering if the coils didn' t brake down.

Meanwhile i did change the main jet from 100 to 105 ( from 100 til top speed =140 km/h) not enough power.
I found in the bowl some dirt van de gas tank ( I think rust), the fuel is filtered.

Now , still my carbs flooded en spills enough gasoline on the ground.
Do I coat the tank or clean it with electrolyse?

I think that the flooded carbs give to much gas oil to Cylinder 1, because this Cylinder won't fire till I pull the Spark-plug Cap about a 1/2 inch above the spark-plug , So this plug is soaked wet.
Could is be that this plug is now damaged -with carbon- on the insulator

I need some advise

Greetings Peter.

 

[tkent02]

Hi,
Is is possible to upgrade the single disc?

You could do this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/Tkent02/GS 550/550BrakePic3.jpg

 

[Guest]

Nice, which Brand, artikel rotor and caliper?

 

[tkent02]

Honda Blackbird rotor, Saltymonk's Kawasaki Twin Pot kit.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...rake-upgrade-on-78-Skunk&highlight=salty+monk

 

[Chuck78]

Do plug chops at your areas of high speed high rpm throttle position complaints. Hard acceleration pulls to area where problem occurs, then in the middle of hard accel, simultaneously hit the kill switch close the throttle pull in the clutch. Pull over, let bike coll off several minutes, then yank all plugs and swap in a spare set.
Take them all home and put them in a vice, & cut off the entire metal thread portion to expose the base of the insulator porcelain. You should have a light tan ring near the very bottom if air fuel mixture is ideal. Dark brown slightly rich and coming up further on the insulator, and the whole thing will be black if it is extremely rich. If it is stark white, you are extremely lean and risking burning up your engine

Make sure you do this test after ensuring that your tank is clean, petcock screen is not plugged up, petcock does shut off (bad vac diaphragm can flood out #3 in particular), needle and seat are not worn Kama fuel levels have been checked with the u-tube clear hose method after the floats have been statically set on the bench, & that your intake boot o-rings have been replaced and boots are in good shape, as well as all of your carb o-rings on the mixture screws are good & carbs are very clean, including blowing out all of the air jet passages. Air filter is new if paper element, or cleaned and oiled properly if foam or K&N.
Also you need to do a valve adjustment which will require swapping shims out for other sizes most likely (see the GS valve shim club thread that GhostGS1 Ray runs) as well as a cheap set of measuring calipers, a set of tweezers to fish the shims out, and a Suzuki GS valve tappet depressor tool. No exhaust leaks either.

Compression test the engine now, and check to see that you have even cylinder pressures with them 10 or 20 psi at worse, & make sure the pressures are above 120 if you want any performance. A fresh ring job on a fresh cylinder hone properly broken-in should give about 150 psi at least. You won't make any power if you have low compression.

Once you have sorted all of this out, then the bike has a clean bill of health to properly jet the carbs. Is it stock in terms of air box and exhaust? Has it had regular valve adjustments its whole life?

My stock 750 with a performance 4 into 1 exhaust and uni filter in the air box was very fast up to about 95 mph. Worth 850 Pistons it pulled better at higher speeds. With 920 Pistons, K&N air filters, and advanced camshafts, it pulls extremely well even excessive speeds 7000rpm 5th gear, on a closed course, of course!

If I recall, the stock 750 petered out of acceleration by 110 or 115, and would just gradually climb. Acceleration up to 90 mph was on par with and 1132cc RC Performance built KZ1000, with the KZ obviously pulling ahead but not by much though. He had steeper gearing for top speed though.

 

[Chuck78]

The ninja caliper and Honda CBR 1100 XX Blackbird rotor combination that time is recommending is a very good one. Dual disks are not necessarily needed if you are not racing and not riding in extremely hilly twisty regions or mountains