D
DannyMotor
Guest
I do have this stuff called "alumi-lux" basically it's an aluminum brazing type rod. I may try to, but I'm worried the tension of bolting the cover to the block will simply re-crack it.
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.
A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.
A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.
A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.
Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
Just alumi-welded the case cracks... inside and out... should work, if not... no biggie, just take em' off and have them professionally welded.
BOX OF GOODIES CAME TODAY!!!!
Thanks to 7981GS!! Headstock, headlight mounts, brakes... whole box o-good stuff!
Working on polishing up the cases tonight, and I have tomorrow off, so hopefully going to get the frame painted and button up a few loose ends.
Stuff to order:
Front brake boots/seals
Fork seals
Head bearings (unsure of the size right now, the GS1000 bottom head bearing pokes out of the bottom of the stem even without the race installed... *eek*
Carburetor o-rings
Intake boot o-rings
Oil filter and gasket, oil, spark plugs.
Also, missing one of the 'tear-drop' nuts that goes to the bottom engine mount bolt.
Also, missing the rear-motor mount (bike didn't come with it).
Also.... may need front fork spacers for the GS1000 forks, which, I now think are GS750L forks.
Going to make a comment about the leading forks versus the center forks and someone feel free to tell me if I am wrong. I have the Suzuki 550L.. essentially the same thing as a 750L but with a smaller motor. What, I ask, is the difference really in frame structure between a 750L and a 750E other than the forks on a E are center mount and the ones on a L are forward leading? I don't suffer from handling issues any more than my E counter parts so what would the difference be on his bike versus using Stock E forks? I don't think there is any. Just my $.02 based on construction observation.
Paul
BTW
Bike is looking good Danny sorry to here bout the stator cover.
Measure the angle of the steering mast. Then get back to me. I'll measure an "E" and we can settle this once and for all![]()
Didn't you say that you had a 750E model?
Eric
Whether the bike has a leading or not does not really affect the stability, if the bike was designed for it.I did think of that, but the leading forks are identical in height from top of the tube to the axle, so the only 'real' difference is the axle is set 1 inch forward of where it was... which, if anything would make for more stability (longer wheelbase) and slightly slower turn in, which I'm fine with. I don't think it'll affect anything negatively.. shouldn't cause a wobble, or anything weird like that. I'm pretty sure, if worse comes to worse, I could simply raise the forks up in the trees a bit, 10mm-15mm max.
I kinda wish I hadn't seen this thread cause now my work load has tripled.
Everything is looking so good on your bike and you've shown me what needs to be done to mine.
If we were next door neighbors I wouldn't get anything done on my bike.
I'd be too busy watching yours come to life.
Great work. Really inspiring.
Great job on the rebuild, nice pictures and all (even though they tend to be a bit blue). One suggestion on the pictures, though, please hit the ENTER key twice between the links for the pictures, like you did in post #39. It separates them and keeps them vertical, not like the ones in posts 20, 25, 26 and 28. I know I'm just a lazy old fart, but scrolling sideways to see the pictures and read the text is a bit of a pain.
.
750 didn't get 37mm forks until 83 I don't think. Maybe your forks aren't 750...instead 850 or larger. Or you might double check with a some calipers that they are 37mm and not actually 35mm.
Nice work so far
About all that gunk in the starter cavity, it probably came from a leaky seal on the cam chain tensionser. You may want to redo the tensioner before you put the carbs back on. Very common problem