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GS850G #1 not firing

  • Thread starter Thread starter wolfleg
  • Start date Start date
I am having this same problem today, the really weird part is if I take the boot off the plug a little, not all the way off, the cylinder starts firing again and runs fine. Why in the world would that happen? This happens even if I take the boot/elbow off and run the wire straight the the plug, pull wire away from plug about an 1/8th inch and watch it arc and start firing again, if the wire is too close to the plug it stops. I am about to go snip a bit off the wire and see if that helps.
 
tateG said:
I am having this same problem today, the really weird part is if I take the boot off the plug a little, not all the way off, the cylinder starts firing again and runs fine. Why in the world would that happen? This happens even if I take the boot/elbow off and run the wire straight the the plug, pull wire away from plug about an 1/8th inch and watch it arc and start firing again, if the wire is too close to the plug it stops. I am about to go snip a bit off the wire and see if that helps.
Click to expand...

Bad boot maybe?
 
I took the boot off and it does the same thing, never seen this kind of weirdness before, cars or bikes. I am going to put the old plugs I recently took out back in and see if that changes anything, now that the bike has cooled off a bit. I rode home about 10 miles with the boot loose on the plug, snap it down on the plug and wouldn't run on that cylinder. I did snip a bit off and re-screwed on the old boot, no change. I want new boots anyway, but I don't think that is going to fix it.
 
tateG said:
I took the boot off and it does the same thing, never seen this kind of weirdness before, cars or bikes. I am going to put the old plugs I recently took out back in and see if that changes anything, now that the bike has cooled off a bit. I rode home about 10 miles with the boot loose on the plug, snap it down on the plug and wouldn't run on that cylinder. I did snip a bit off and re-screwed on the old boot, no change. I want new boots anyway, but I don't think that is going to fix it.
Click to expand...


Throw a new plug in it. When you lengthen the distance on the gap (wire end) you're creating a higher amperage discharge "more juice". Sounds like your plug is all but fouled out.
 
Yep, just got back from a short ride, my old plugs work fine. It was fouling that one plug, but not sure why. I recently changed my plugs, but I didn't think to check the numbers on what I had in the bike before I bought the new ones. So the Suzuki shop gave me the normal plugs, which are one step colder than what I had. I wondered if that would cause a problem. I guess that combined with the new 4-1 pipe created the problem. I am back to running the NGK B7ES now and it ran great. We will see after I take a little bit longer ride to work and back tonight how it fares.

And thanks for the explanation Dave8338, I was wondering about that but don't really know much about electric current and such. Now I know just a little bit more :-D
 
Forgot to ask Dave, what is the car in your signature? Is that an Opel? It looks not-so-stock whatever it may be. :shock:

Don't want to hi-jack the thread too much, just really curious.
 
Dave8338 said:
Throw a new plug in it. When you lengthen the distance on the gap (wire end) you're creating a higher amperage discharge "more juice". Sounds like your plug is all but fouled out.
Click to expand...

Uhh air adds resistance, you are descreasing the amperage..

V = IR, so I = V/R, as R increases to infinity (creating gap) I approaches 0 amperes.

Sounds to me like you have a bad boot or a bad plug, try changing them. Try using the boot or swap the 1 and 4 cables, they both fire at the same time, this will tell you if it is boot or plug.

Cutting a bit of the HT wire off the end might not be a bad idea, but inside the boot the connectors could be bad as well, so don't overlook these.
 
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