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gs850g valve seal replacement help?

  • Thread starter Thread starter bikerdave
  • Start date Start date
B

bikerdave

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Got a gs850g I'm doing top end gaskets on...my question, do I need anything besides the Suzuki spring compressor tool (crescent shaped thingy) to remove the valves and seals? The jug gaskets were leaking like a sieve and #1 and #2 intake valve seals are sucking oil. I have the valve compressor tool but do I need a special spring compressor to remove the valves? Any help would be great. thanks
 
Most of us just use a piece of PVC pipe with a window cut to emove and install the keepers. Or a socket and a hammer.
 
I am the one that made the video on BassCliff's site that shows the PVC pipe with the window cut into it. :o

I have since given up on the PVC and cut one side out of a 24mm deep socket to accomplish the same thing without the weakness of the PVC.

No hammers involved, though, it's tricky enough to do the job when you can control (somewhat) which way the parts will fly. :eek:

.
 
+1 on the steel socket. I have used this method and it works great.
 
If you use a socket with no window the keepers don't go anywhere.

I use the window technique too though.
 
I could have sworn that I had some pictures of the socket with the window, but I just looked through my PhotoBucket stuff and didn't see anything.

I might have taken the pictures and not uploaded them, I will check later tonight.

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Word of caution: only use OEM Suzuki gaskets, particularly the base gasket. Aftermarket gasket kits, particularly Athena brand (green gaskets) are very poor quality and prone to leakage.
 
I use a cheap wide groove O2 socket like this one from Nothern Tool with an 8" C-Clamp and it works great.
pq3u.jpg

+1 on only using OEM base and head gaskets. You can get by with none OEM valve cover and breather gaskets but I wouldn't mess with anything other then OEM for base and head.

Getting the old valve stem seals out can be a bit of a wrestle. Take your time and don't worry about damaging the old seal. There's no easy way to remove them but to grab them with a pair of large needle nose pliers (with good sharp teeth) and turn while pulling HARD. The exhausts seem to be a little easier because they tend to be more dried out and brittle from the heat. The intakes can be more of a bear. Just be careful you don't damage the shim cup bore walls.

When reinstalling the valves, a dab of grease to hold the collets in place against the valve stem while above the retainer helps a ton.
 
Lots of good ideas. Thanks guys! I'm a pro engine rebuilder when it comes to cars but I never had to pull valves on a twin cam bike before like this where they're recessed and wondered how it might work cause I didn't see any way of using a standard compressor. I have an o2 socket and c clamp ill have to try that method. As far as pulling the seals out on cars its helpful to have right angle hose pliers to yank them. maybe that could work here too. Another question... Will I need a ring compressor to get the jugs back on or will I be able to do it by hand? I don't think I have any small enough...and what size hone should I use?
 
Rings by hand. Ball hone the correct size for your bore. Don't know about the hose pliers, they might not fit down in there, but long needle nose work fine.
 
Also all I seem to be finding is the top end kits with the green jug gaskets? Is there somewhere specific I should look for the better one? I don't want it to leak again!
 
Does anyone know of or where I can find the torque specs for the top end?
 
Thanks so much guys. I'll let ya know how she runs when I get her put back together!
 
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