GS850G Won't Start, Electrical Issue, No Spark

[chuck hahn]

Kiwi..
I get what youre saying. And i imagine position of the T would vary based on stroke length as well. My idea was first to find TDC ( relatively close ) with a screwdriver then view the T mark to see if its close to the timing mark. At least this would give some assurance that possibly the F mark would be at least trustable when timing lights used.
Not everyone has dial guage to be exact so you gotta do the best given the situation. If it was me and the T mark was there or just touching the mark id just time it as normal. If it was off a tad one way or the other i would apply the same amount to the F mark before timing.. follow me ??

 

[Grimly]

Absence of a dial gauge, just bring it up to TDC either by eyeball, screwdriver, modified spark plug, etc, and rock it back and forth by the same number of degrees either side. In the middle of that is TDC, good enough for government work.

 

[KiwiAlfa156]

Absence of a dial gauge, just bring it up to TDC either by eyeball, screwdriver, modified spark plug, etc, and rock it back and forth by the same number of degrees either side. In the middle of that is TDC, good enough for government work.

Yep, definitely works as a sanity check

 

[KiwiAlfa156]

Kiwi..
I get what youre saying. And i imagine position of the T would vary based on stroke length as well. My idea was first to find TDC ( relatively close ) with a screwdriver then view the T mark to see if its close to the timing mark. At least this would give some assurance that possibly the F mark would be at least trustable when timing lights used.
Not everyone has dial guage to be exact so you gotta do the best given the situation. If it was me and the T mark was there or just touching the mark id just time it as normal. If it was off a tad one way or the other i would apply the same amount to the F mark before timing.. follow me ??

Yes, the timing marks from the factory are good to go. Checking TDC by the screwdriver method or otherwise is only really something to look at if you've replaced or repaired something under the cover, or are unsure what a PO has done. Fix what's broken, not what's working.

 

[dandypop]

Finally got the mechanical advance unit in the mail.

I've got an allen bolt and a 19mm bolt (allen inside the 19mm) coming out of the crankshaft. Is it lefty loosey, and do I need to keep the 19mm tight? Hasn't budged yet, but I gotta get them off so I can get the signal generator out.

 

[dandypop]

As for your question about replacing the signal generator. Yes the stock rotor and pick ups go away along with the igniter box. Wire it like i said above. RED to any switched 12 volt wire. I splice into one of the hot leads going to one of the coils. The black and white wires are the signal wires going directly to the coils. I dont remember which color goes to which coil but as i said if it sputters and pops trying to start or wont do anything then switch the black and white wires around.

EDIT.. Look at the color wire going to each pickup. That will probably tell which color goes to which coil

Okay, I'm wiring the new electronic system up. The wires coming out of the signal generator go into the (old) TCI and then there are wires coming out of the TCI that go into the coils. I assume I'm going direct from the ignition to the coils? I am not sure which wires tap to which. If anyone knows for sure, I'd love the help.

 

[chuck hahn]

check your inbox for my number

 

[chuck hahn]

call anytime. im home all day.

 

[chuck hahn]

Please just call me.. too much to work through in pms. I saw the pic and responded

 

[dandypop]

Chuck is the Ignition Whisperer! He spent some hours on the phone with me today and we got the bike running! It was too late to test ride it, but it fires right up and idles. I'll report back on the performance under load tomorrow.

Thanks again, Chuck. You are the MAN!

 

[chuck hahn]

Now that we got it running i want you to see where the F mark is in relationship to the sharpie mark we established for the T mark. Do this at idle around 1000 - 1200 RPM. If the advancer is correct the F mark should be on that line. What im getting at is to establish some sort of idea where to time it to with the timing light. But as i told you last night it seems like its damn close due to it hits almost instantly.
Also run it up above 3000 and see where the full advance mark indicates at.

 

[dandypop]

Well, I did a 50-mile shakedown after adjusting the timing (it was retarded probably 2?).

Based on feel and responsiveness, it rode exceptionally well! Pulled hard throughout the RPM range, and when I was at 87MPH it was ready and willing to give more. chuck hahn is my hero!​

 

[chuck hahn]

We need Pics of the beast. And videos if you wish

 

[dandypop]

Well I did 250 miles yesterday! She’s running so good! Thanks to Nessism for the R/R upgrade and chuck hahn for the timing advice (and all the rest of you). You guys are awesome!

 

[dandypop]

UPDATE: I have put 3300 miles on her since my last post! It's getting cold here in Utah, but I keep adding more cold-weather gear because I don't want the season to end!

The bike has been running exceptionally well, until about a week ago, when it started to hang at about 2000 RPMS at idle. I bit the bullet and adjusted the valves, and she's back in business!