I'm wondering how you fit all that into the bucket...
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H4 LED bulbs and other LED lamps
- Thread starter Grimly
- Start date
Not being used to taking night photos I'm not sure how good, bad or indifferent these shots are but here they are....
Low beam is a pair of LED's and high beam add a third.
What do you think?
Street- low beam
Street- hi beam
Drive- low beam
Drive- hi beam
Low beam is a pair of LED's and high beam add a third.
What do you think?
Street- low beam
Street- hi beam
Drive- low beam
Drive- hi beam
I suspected that two of them would be needed and a third for high comes as no surprise. All in all, looks acceptable enough and the pleasant surprise is that, even with the large light emitting area of the LED square compared to a filament, there is actually some form of cut-off on dip and perhaps a rudimentary beam pattern, which will be enough to satisfy motor vehicle testers come inspection.
I should have taken "before" photos for comparison but I'm not going back as it was a real pain to get the LED installed. I'll get back on the heat generated - it's still pretty cool around here so the real test will be when it warms up.
Some of us are lucky (?) in rural states, not to have to worry about inspections - no such thing in Minnesota, as evidenced by some death traps available on Craigslist & Ebay.
Some of us are lucky (?) in rural states, not to have to worry about inspections - no such thing in Minnesota, as evidenced by some death traps available on Craigslist & Ebay.
Thanks Tom. Half my reason for looking at this mod was the reduced power consumption. With lights on and at idle I was barely getting 12 volts charging and had to be over 4,000 rpm to get close to 14 volts. I installed a Shindengen SH775 with the LED headlight mod and now lights on at idle I get 13.5 volts and 14.5 volts as soon as I'm moving.
L
landshark
Guest
Pardon my ignorance, but besides the SH775, did you have to change anything else to go to that headlight?
This might be considered unrelated but I was testing a DDM HID modulation through the SSPB Headlamp cutout. with youtube compression and my lamptop the modulation looks pretty screwy but also you can get an idea of how bright the 55W H/L HID is for H-4
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=2024409&postcount=12
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=2024409&postcount=12
No, for the H4 it is indeed plug 'n' play. It's a bit of a scrap to get the clip securing the unit in place in the headlight and then getting the headlight into the bucket but that's it.
L
landshark
Guest
Thanks Mate.
L
landshark
Guest
Have you got a link to that particular one?
This is the one.
Courtesy of Gatekeeper.
Tell them what machine the unit is going in - they'll make sure it fits.
What did it have, bare wires? Got a link?
J
jbird7262
Guest
If you have to replace the 3 way plug, try to find a ceramic plug designed for the heat produced at the lamp.
Well, I finally shelled out and scored a cheapy Chinese LED H4 10/20W headlamp bulb and while it's not quite the same as the ADVMonster, it's actually quite reasonable for back road use.
It has a definite low beam and although the cut-off isn't all that sharp, it's defined enough to not dazzle oncoming drivers. Main beam is adequate, and on a par with the H4 halogen it replaced for total light output, but while it illuminates the far distance quite well, it lacks real centre distance punch, so I'll supplement that with the long-distance 27W group of LEDs in a 4x4" cluster of nine.
The halogen, being matched more closely to the reflector and lens, had better beam control, and this headlamp was one of the better ones of the day, being off a KZ1100, iirc. I went for reflector/lens size as my yardstick back then, and it rarely saw me wrong-footed.
Overall though, it's useable enough and gets me into the game. I'll buy another one or two or maybe more, if this one works reliably (and there's the rub, will it?) for long enough. We shall see.
Oh, it's one of these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251940629776
It has a definite low beam and although the cut-off isn't all that sharp, it's defined enough to not dazzle oncoming drivers. Main beam is adequate, and on a par with the H4 halogen it replaced for total light output, but while it illuminates the far distance quite well, it lacks real centre distance punch, so I'll supplement that with the long-distance 27W group of LEDs in a 4x4" cluster of nine.
The halogen, being matched more closely to the reflector and lens, had better beam control, and this headlamp was one of the better ones of the day, being off a KZ1100, iirc. I went for reflector/lens size as my yardstick back then, and it rarely saw me wrong-footed.
Overall though, it's useable enough and gets me into the game. I'll buy another one or two or maybe more, if this one works reliably (and there's the rub, will it?) for long enough. We shall see.
Oh, it's one of these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251940629776
Attachments
Well, I finally shelled out and scored a cheapy Chinese LED H4 10/20W headlamp bulb and while it's not quite the same as the ADVMonster, it's actually quite reasonable for back road use.
It has a definite low beam and although the cut-off isn't all that sharp, it's defined enough to not dazzle oncoming drivers. Main beam is adequate, and on a par with the H4 halogen it replaced for total light output, but while it illuminates the far distance quite well, it lacks real centre distance punch, so I'll supplement that with the long-distance 27W group of LEDs in a 4x4" cluster of nine.
The halogen, being matched more closely to the reflector and lens, had better beam control, and this headlamp was one of the better ones of the day, being off a KZ1100, iirc. I went for reflector/lens size as my yardstick back then, and it rarely saw me wrong-footed.
Overall though, it's useable enough and gets me into the game. I'll buy another one or two or maybe more, if this one works reliably (and there's the rub, will it?) for long enough. We shall see.
Oh, it's one of these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251940629776
Not sure if you took the time to calculate the actual power consumption setting for the Lamp? You would have to measure current and voltage taking the product. I presume that round disk is an DC-DC convertor that maintains a fixed current level in the LED. Voltage goes up, current drops.
I have noticed that the actual power levels are usually quite a bit lower than "rated". On the Cyclops it is rated at 40W on Hi and it comes in at 32W. I bought another bulb and while it claims 18W it was actually 12W.
One thing to watch is that you do not have dirty connections. The amplifier for the Cyclopse for example woukld curent limit at about 5.2Amps even though teh max draw at 14.5V should be only about 2.2amps (32W/14.5=2.2amps).
So what can happens is if you have dirty connections to the lamp, and the voltage at the bulb is at say 10V instead of 14.5 the current will go up by 14.5/10 or 45%.
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