hard shifting

[daveo]

I've had Barnett clutches in both the 750 and 1100 and tried 20-50 once in the 1100, immediately had the shifting problem, changed back to 10-40 the same day, no more problem. The synthetic oils may be too slick for the clutch discs, I've only heard of people using them when the trani oil is seperate from the engine. The newer Kevlar Barnett discs are very smooth and with much lighter springs than the older kits.

 

[Anonymous]

shifting

shifting

Dave from what i have learned in the past few posts, i am noe believing that the oil is the culprit--but i never have trouble with slipping clutches with synthetic oil no mater how i drive the bike

 

[Anonymous]

After boring my 1100 to 1150 and fitting a tuned exhaust I understandably developed a slipping clutch. After checking all the plates for tolerance I fitted heavy duty springs. I now have an overdeveloped left forearm and no more slipping clutch. I have also found that the shifting has become a little more difficult and have had to keep my clutch well adjusted. I also have the problem, as already mentioned, of chewing through clutch cables. A period on synthetic oil has also sorted any shifting problems.

 

[redliner1973]

One thing to consider about synthetic vs dino oils, synt's are NOT 'slipperier' than dino oils, just are more molecularly stable, meaning that they will not break down as quick, as the molecules are designed to all be about the same size, vs dino oils that have various sizes, some which dissolve faster, and some that don't. I have run synthetics in several bikes, and cars, and NEVER had a slipping clutch problem. If you want to prove it to yourself, start fresh with a good quality Dino oil, do an oil analysis at drain interval, then fill with synthetic and drive the same as you did before, and do another analysis at the same interval oil change...you will notice a difference......

 

[Anonymous]

not slipperier??

not slipperier??

why does my bike engine run noticably cooler with synthetic oil?????

 

[redliner1973]

Because the dino oils you were using were breaking down faster, resulting in more friction. Syns don't break down no where near as fsat or much hence the engine runs cooler.

 

[Anonymous]

Oil Breaking Down

Oil Breaking Down

THEN WHAT YOUARE TELLING ME IS THAT AS SOON AS I START THE ENGINE AND WARM IT UP-JUST AFTER CHANGING MY OIL AND FILTER AND USING CASTROL 20-50 DYNO OIL THE DYNO OIL BREAKS DOWN AS SOON AS THE BIKE WARMS UP AND THIS IS WHY THE OIL TEMPERATURE STAYS IN THE SAME SPOT FOR THE NEXT 2000 MILES--((THATS WHEN I CHANGE OIL))-IF THIS IS THE CASE THEN THIS CASTROLL I AM USING IS JUST ANOTHER GARBAGE PRODUCT ??????????????????????? IT'S CONFUSING TO ME 8O

 

[redliner1973]

Are you using 20W50 Synthetic also?

 

[redliner1973]

OK, try this out...Part of the problem of dino oils is that becasue of their refined nature, they are composed of molecules that differ greatly in size. As the oil flows through the system, the small moles tend to flow in the centre of the stream, whilst the large heavy ones adhere to metal surfaces where they create a barrier to heat transfer from the componant to the oil stream. also, uniformly sized moles, like synthetics slip over each other much easier than the non-uniformed sized dino molecules. Kinda like if you could roll marbles over one another, easy if they all were the same size, but harder if the sizes were different. this non-uniformity is another factor to added friction in dino oil, hence your hotter temp when using them, and cooler temp when using synthetics. remember that motor oil does almost 50% of the cooling, you can see why Dino's are 'hotter running' than synthetics. Hope that makes it alittle clearer

 

[moto_dan]

Tim,
In your experience which synthetic do you suggest for our GS's? Another question. Would you happen to know the best operating tempature range for engine oil?

 

[Anonymous]

Friction

Friction

OK NOW YOU ARE SAYING THAT DYNO OIL HAS MORE FRICTION AND SYNTHETIC OIL SLIPS EASIER?????????

 

[redliner1973]

Look at it however you want, you stated that it ran cooler with synthetic oils, I told you why. Do with that advice what you like. My recommendations are for synthetics, and any good quality brand that is chosen will work. I try to use 10w40, as the suzuki manual states, except for summertime here, then I use 20w50. this is my opinion, based on my experience, and opinion with oils. I personally use Castrol in my GS, and Moblile 1 15w50 in the small honda I have. Oil analysis taken from both bikes has shown me why i have chosen a synthetic. It was costly for me to do all this, but with 2 cars and 2 bikes, and no desire to part with any of them soon, I did what I felt I had to do to prolong their lives. It is the best research I have come up with so far.

 

[moto_dan]

Thanks Tim.

 

[redliner1973]

Your welcome, i hope it helped..