hard starting my gs650 Help!

[larryo]

I recently cleaned my carbs, rejetted and added pods. it ran killer. the next day it was hard to start, and ran out the battery. then I jumped it, sprayed some starter fluid and it fired up. It runs killer very responsive and quick.

next day after sitting same thing, wont fire up and i killed the battery. Jump it and it fires up.

Next day same thing. so now its sitting.

Any ideas? runs great warm wont start cold. (yes Ive pulled the choke)

 

[cowboyup3371]

Have you adjusted the valves? Have you done any electrical tests to see what the battery is at rest, with the key on, while trying to start it?

Start some testing following the stator papers found here - http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_garage.htm and on Basscliff's site - http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff

 

[tom203]

Since it starts readily when you jump it (non running vehicle,right??) sounds like your voltage during cold cranking is dropping too low- the ignitor likes about 10 volts to sorta fire happily. Have you cleaned all those 33 yearold connections? Is your battery OK ? As cowboyup said- check out your electrical system

 

[Guest]

Electrical connections and , have you adjusted the valves? tight valves will cause hard starting. Also throw the starting fluid away before you hurt the old girl. Another thing you say you added pods and rejetted, Did you do plug chops to make sure you got the jetting right? You could still be very lean. Also when you cleaned your carbs did you dip them and replace the o-rings? Are the choke/ enrichener tubes clear to the bowls, also the little hole in the bowl? Are the float levels set correctly? There are some ideas. Not sure which one but betting it is one of the listed above problems.

 

[Steve]

Like the others, I am going to repeat, but mainly to show how important it is.

1. How did you "clean the carbs"? If you merely unloaded a can of spray, you need to take the carbs off and do the full "strip and dip" routine, along with replacing the o-rings in the carbs and intake boots.

2. Have you adjusted the valves? The valves on these bikes always tighten up with use, and tight valves cause hard starting, especially when cold.

3. Have you checked the battery? If it's low enough to require jumping, it might just be a bad battery. Voltage should not go below 11.0 or so while cranking.

4. Please THROW THE STARTING FLUID AWAY. When the bike is properly tuned (valves, carbs, electrics, etc.), you will have your thumb on the starter button for less than a second, and there is no need for any "enhancement liquids".

5. Are you using the correct starting technique? When cold, it will likely need application of the "choke". How much will depend on your bike, but usually about 1/2 to 3/4 works well. Apply "choke", pull clutch lever (unless that has been bypassed), turn key ON, push starter button. Did you notice that NOWHERE did I say "turn the throttle"? That is because you DON'T turn the throttle AT ALL while trying to start on "choke".

.

 

[larryo]

Thanks everyone! this is why i love this site good information.

I was pretty anal about cleaning the carbs I soaked the parts but did not do a 24hour dip.

Regarding adjusting the valves is this something I can do myself? is there a link with the instructions. Im trying to avoid bringing it to a shop and increase the cost of my barn find. let me know

thanks all

 

[tkent02]

The valves are easy, requires a feeler guage, some tweezers and a zip tie. A few shims once you find out which sizes you need. MAybe a valve cover gasket. The hardest part is removing the old gasket if it gets stuck when you take the lid off.

 

[Steve]

Thanks everyone! this is why i love this site good information.

That is our whole reason for being here.

I was pretty anal about cleaning the carbs I soaked the parts but did not do a 24hour dip.

A full 24-hour dip is not always necessary. Sometimes you can get by with 23 1/2 hours.

Actually, the dip time will depend on the condition of the carbs and how long it has been since they were running correctly. If the bike was running regularly until a couple of months ago, you might get by with a 4-6 hour dip. If you have no idea how long it has been, a full day (plus or minus a few hours) is highly recommended. I have said it before, I'll say it again, "every shortcut you take just means one more time you will have to remove the carbs".

Regarding adjusting the valves is this something I can do myself? is there a link with the instructions. Im trying to avoid bringing it to a shop and increase the cost of my barn find. let me know

Have you not yet received your Mega-Welcome? (click the link )
There is LOTS of information on BassCliff's "little" website (click ),
including a how-to on valve adjustment ().

Also, feel free to take advantage of the invitation in my sig.

.

 

[tom203]

The valves are easy.......The hardest part is removing the old gasket if it gets stuck when you take the lid off.

Yes, you'll probably spend more time removing the old gasket- what year is this 650? There are two different cam cover gaskets; part way thru model year 82, they added another bolt to cover .

 

[larryo]

Guys, I just read a bunch on the valve adjustment. It seems that with the 1981 GS650G I need to buy new shims???? However I still cant figure out how I would determine what size to purchase. it seems like I need to...

1. buy the depression tool
2. buy shims (where do I buy them and how do I know what size?)
2 adjust with feeler gauge to factory specs.

its seems like the 16 valve bikes were more straight forward. 8 valve with shims look easy but I need to understand how i would know what size.

Im appreciating all the help..

 

[cowboyup3371]

You won't know the size you need until you get in there to measure. Then, don't buy them but check out the Shim Club instead (find GhostGS1's thread in the GS Services section of the forum). Also, take Steve up on his spreadsheet as it's invaluable for the work you'll do.

Although I haven't had much luck with it, some people swear by using a zip tie instead of the official Suzuki tool so check that out too.

 

[Steve]

8 valve with shims look easy but I need to understand how i would know what size.

Follow the instructions in the links provided earlier.
They include full instructions on how to remove your shims ONE AT A TIME for inspection and inventory.

Also, take Steve up on his spreadsheet as it's invaluable for the work you'll do.

Yep, what he said. Look down there.

.

 

[larryo]

I must be having a brain fart. Because I can visualize using the tool to depress that valve and get the shim out. But do I measure the old shim and the feeler gauge and then determine the difference between the gap and what it should be..? or is this trial and error. Ugg. I really want to avoid taking it to a mechanic. this seems simple. im just not getting the measurement..

Do Shims come in a kit with a bunch of different sizes?

Ive read the links and its not clear. pm me the specific verbiage if you dont mind. : )

Also this all started after watching cafe racer TV. I got inspired, buy 500 dollar bike, and begin the tune up. at least it runs just need to get this baby dialed in.. I'll post some pics it looks pretty cool with the modifications i made.

 

[Steve]

Have you read the instructions?

In a nutshell:
1. measure the clearances, RECORD THEM. Note: they are only valid if the cams are in the proper positions for measurement.
2. remove ONE shim, check the size. It is printed on one side, but might have worn off, so use calipers or a micrometer to measure it. RECORD IT. If it did not have the proper clearance, you will have to change the size of the shim, but don't worry about that just yet.
3. put that shim back in, move to the next one.
4. when all the shims are inventoried, compare all the ones that need to be changed. Quite often, they are different sizes and you can shuffle them around to minimize the number of shims you need to buy (or acquire from the GSR Shim Club).
5. in case you hadn't yet gotten the hint, there is a spreadsheet offer in my signature that helps you figure out what size shims you need, and will also help you keep track of your shims and clearances, so you will know what to expect next time.

.

 

[larryo]

pic of my bike I customized the rear spoiler and moved it up. used bar end blinkers where i cut of the rear end.

 

[larryo]

Ill email you for the spreadsheet. I'm posting some pics too.. :clap:

larry

Have you read the instructions?

In a nutshell:
1. measure the clearances, RECORD THEM. Note: they are only valid if the cams are in the proper positions for measurement.
2. remove ONE shim, check the size. It is printed on one side, but might have worn off, so use calipers or a micrometer to measure it. RECORD IT. If it did not have the proper clearance, you will have to change the size of the shim, but don't worry about that just yet.
3. put that shim back in, move to the next one.
4. when all the shims are inventoried, compare all the ones that need to be changed. Quite often, they are different sizes and you can shuffle them around to minimize the number of shims you need to buy (or acquire from the GSR Shim Club).
5. in case you hadn't yet gotten the hint, there is a spreadsheet offer in my signature that helps you figure out what size shims you need, and will also help you keep track of your shims and clearances, so you will know what to expect next time.

.

 

[larryo]

rear end to see the blinker and brake light set up.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Where are you located? Please put that information in your profile so we can see it and, if one of us is close by, can offer personal assistance. Also, put your bike information in your signature block.

 

[tkent02]

Please use full sized pics. Can't even see those unless I save it to another window, then up the size. Way too hard.

 

[Steve]

Please use full sized pics. Can't even see those unless I save it to another window, then up the size. Way too hard.

This is what we see when we click on your pictures.





If they were down-sized from a larger format, they went too far. 800x600 is a decent minimum, this is what that size looks like:

Virtually everybody has a screen size that is at least 1024 wide, so if you make your picture between 800 and 1000 pixels wide, it will fit very nicely.

It also helps to host your pictures on a website, then post the IMG link, which will show the picture directly, without anyone having to click on anything.

.