Harness Installed TSCU MOD for LED Conversions

[posplayr]

Open it does nothing. Didnt try feeding it hot as didnt want to fry it

As mentioned in the first post most of the differences in FLASHERS seem to be where the pins land on the flashers not necessarily polarities. All of them are a high side control relay (Normally closed) that allows power to feed through but disabled when appropriately controlled. In the case of OEM that was when you applied +12V . For most modern ones it seems to be when you ground.

If there was one that disabled with a high signal on BL it would work with the OEM TSCU.

 

[Weapon]

Ok i just got home with a ep34 and it worked a charm. I should have listened to the little voice that said dont let this kid sell you this other one just because he cant find what i need. Once again POS thanks so much for your patience and help!!

 

[posplayr]

Ok i just got home with a ep34 and it worked a charm. I should have listened to the little voice that said dont let this kid sell you this other one just because he cant find what i need. Once again POS thanks so much for your patience and help!!

Thanks, glad it is sorted. You are very close now to just getting the TSCU to work and relay will work that has a NC output (87a)

 

[Weapon]

Yup going to tackle that for sure using one of those little relays you showed on the main post

 

[Gregory]

Great Thread.

I have a gs1100e that I just bought new LED turn signals for. I have the polaris SH775 on my bike already and my auto cancel does not work and I can live without it.

So if I understand correctly ???

Option A is to purchase a EP34 2-6 lamp flasher relay and it is plug and play after grounding one wire to the frame.
or
Option B is to buy load resistors and wire one in line with each turn signal.

I imagine option A is more affordable and looks simpler -- any pros and cons would be appreciated.

 

[posplayr]

Great Thread.

I have a gs1100e that I just bought new LED turn signals for. I have the polaris SH775 on my bike already and my auto cancel does not work and I can live without it.

So if I understand correctly ???

Option A is to purchase a EP34 2-6 lamp flasher relay and it is plug and play after grounding one wire to the frame.
or
Option B is to buy load resistors and wire one in line with each turn signal.

I imagine option A is more affordable and looks simpler -- any pros and cons would be appreciated.

Option A: If you do not want the TSCU function then yes you can just ground the control line on the EP34.
Option B: This is not really an option. Basically without a series R/R putting in LEDS will stress your stator. The ballast resistors eliminate that problem but also cancel out the main reason for going to LED (i.e. lower power consumption)

Option C: I found a prototype inline relay to make your TCSU work with the EP34. PM your address and I can drop it into the mail. Install just like the picture shows.

 

[Gregory]

Thank you posplayr much appreciated. Does the TSCU do anything other than autocanelling? My auto cancelling is not working already before the switch to LEDs.

Also, when grounding the control line, do I just cut a length out and ground it to the frame.... and leave the other end of it cut?

Option A: If you do not want the TSCU function then yes you can just ground the control line on the EP34.
Option B: This is not really an option. Basically without a series R/R putting in LEDS will stress your stator. The ballast resistors eliminate that problem but also cancel out the main reason for going to LED (i.e. lower power consumption)

Option C: I found a prototype inline relay to make your TCSU work with the EP34. PM your address and I can drop it into the mail. Install just like the picture shows.

 

[posplayr]

Thank you posplayr much appreciated. Does the TSCU do anything other than autocanelling? My auto cancelling is not working already before the switch to LEDs.

Also, when grounding the control line, do I just cut a length out and ground it to the frame.... and leave the other end of it cut?

Right now I do not remember the polarity of the control only that there is an polarity inversion required between the TSCU and the EP34. it is easy enough to test, use a clip lead to pull the "C" pin to ground or +12V and see what happens.

if you are not going to use the TCSU then just buy a two prong flasher (between B and L). You might have to swap the pins in the connector and there is nothing else to do.

 

[Gregory]

Right now I do not remember the polarity of the control only that there is an polarity inversion required between the TSCU and the EP34. it is easy enough to test, use a clip lead to pull the "C" pin to ground or +12V and see what happens.

if you are not going to use the TCSU then just buy a two prong flasher (between B and L). You might have to swap the pins in the connector and there is nothing else to do.

Thank you very much. The 2 prong is what I will probably do then. Not sure what B&L means but will google it.

I hope wont be any issues with any guage lights not working in this scenario.

 

[posplayr]

Thank you very much. The 2 prong is what I will probably do then. Not sure what B&L means but will google it.

I hope wont be any issues with any guage lights not working in this scenario.

B and L are two of the pins on the three pin flasher relay.

B/BL is Black/Blue strip on wire color.

I know the two pin flashes have been used successfully; you just need to fine the correct two pins in the connector.

LEDs have about 1/6 the current draw of incandescent bulbs so there should be no issues.

 

[Gregory]

B and L are two of the pins on the three pin flasher relay.

B/BL is Black/Blue strip on wire color.

I know the two pin flashes have been used successfully; you just need to fine the correct two pins in the connector.

LEDs have about 1/6 the current draw of incandescent bulbs so there should be no issues.

I just got back from oreilly auto parts and they had the ep34 for $13, but did not have any plug style two prong flashers....or would I need a 2 prong where the blades are cockeyed from one another? I guess I can order one online if I can figure out what kind to order..... or go back to the ep34 route.

I have what may be a strange question: When I hooked up my LED turn signals (and also kept the stock ones hooked up at sthe same time) the LEDs only lit up half way. They light up bright when I direct wire them at the battery. Have any idea why that would be? I would have thought the stock light would act as a resistor since it was blinking with the LED.

 

[posplayr]

I just got back from oreilly auto parts and they had the ep34 for $13, but did not have any plug style two prong flashers....or would I need a 2 prong where the blades are cockeyed from one another? I guess I can order one online if I can figure out what kind to order..... or go back to the ep34 route.

I have what may be a strange question: When I hooked up my LED turn signals (and also kept the stock ones hooked up at sthe same time) the LEDs only lit up half way. They light up bright when I direct wire them at the battery. Have any idea why that would be? I would have thought the stock light would act as a resistor since it was blinking with the LED.

Did you hook them all in parallel or series?

FWIW, On my 1983 GS1100E I rewired the tail light and the brake light in common as the licence plate light seem plenty bright for a tail light. With two full bulbs lighting up that makes the LED Braking much brighter. I would also recommend a brake flasher in any event (flashes brake light whenever the brake is on). This is far more attention grabbing that just a bright tail light.

I think i still have a couple of them; they go in series with the brake light.

 

[Gregory]

Did you hook them all in parallel or series?

FWIW, On my 1983 GS1100E I rewired the tail light and the brake light in common as the licence plate light seem plenty bright for a tail light. With two full bulbs lighting up that makes the LED Braking much brighter. I would also recommend a brake flasher in any event (flashes brake light whenever the brake is on). This is far more attention grabbing that just a bright tail light.

I think i still have a couple of them; they go in series with the brake light.

I just touched the ground and hot wire of the led light to the same connection point as the stock light. The stock light was bright , the LED half bright

 

[posplayr]

I just touched the ground and hot wire of the led light to the same connection point as the stock light. The stock light was bright , the LED half bright

Check if it is 12V. If it is then see if reversing the LED changes it.
Put the LED across the battery

 

[Gregory]

Check if it is 12V. If it is then see if reversing the LED changes it.
Put the LED across the battery

Yes I did try both ways. and yes it does shine bright when i go directly to the battery and not through the flasher circuit.

 

[posplayr]

Yes I did try both ways. and yes it does shine bright when i go directly to the battery and not through the flasher circuit.

But you did not test the voltage at the point you were paralleling to the other light. It must not be 12V, because clearly if you apply 12V to the LED is bright.

The nature of debugging is you have to eliminate all possibilities. It wouldn't suprise me if you inadvertently stumbled onto something ; this is how it happens many times and you should not ignore unexpected results. Run them to the ground.

 

[Gregory]

But you did not test the voltage at the point you were paralleling to the other light. It must not be 12V, because clearly if you apply 12V to the LED is bright.

The nature of debugging is you have to eliminate all possibilities. It wouldn't suprise me if you inadvertently stumbled onto something ; this is how it happens many times and you should not ignore unexpected results. Run them to the ground.

You were right. I feel like an idiot.

I was only getting 8.6 at the light. I guess the battery went down with the headlight on so long check it. I have the tank off so I wasnt running it.

here is a pic of it running with signal on (doesnt blink yet because I havent got the 2 prong)

Do you think this 2 prong would work? ,,, says hyperflash corrector though and mine isnt flashing at all. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pin-Elec...le-Turn-Signal-Bulbs-Hyper-Flash/131882737801

 

[posplayr]

That looks like it will work for the flasher relay, but you also need something for a fast flash on your brake line. I just decided to put one of these on my Ford Van E-350 rear (roof top) brake light.



https://www.galco.com/buy/Amperite/24-120F30DF?source=googleshopping&utm_source=adwords&utm_campaign=&gclid=CjwKCAiAj-_xBRBjEiwAmRbqYlTQtKVIXYEw9LaAZBRw9s9U0Ur1bUWw24fGiJ-EBs3VDFhTSTpOjBoC9NIQAvD_BwE

This is a cheap version.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...84EUg74EF0PEPAJPMQApPDdslrx6SVCBoCQEoQAvD_BwE

 

[Gregory]

That looks like it will work for the flasher relay, but you also need something for a fast flash on your brake line. I just decided to put one of these on my Ford Van E-350 rear (roof top) brake light.



https://www.galco.com/buy/Amperite/24-120F30DF?source=googleshopping&utm_source=adwords&utm_campaign=&gclid=CjwKCAiAj-_xBRBjEiwAmRbqYlTQtKVIXYEw9LaAZBRw9s9U0Ur1bUWw24fGiJ-EBs3VDFhTSTpOjBoC9NIQAvD_BwE

This is a cheap version.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...84EUg74EF0PEPAJPMQApPDdslrx6SVCBoCQEoQAvD_BwE

Thank you Posplayr ! That sure would be a good upgrade. I like the inline type you posted second...and found it on ebay for less than $3 with free shipping.

 

[posplayr]

Thank you Posplayr ! That sure would be a good upgrade. I like the inline type you posted second...and found it on ebay for less than $3 with free shipping.

This is the wiring diagram. SuperBrightLEDs is a reputable retailer. I'm somewhat surprised they are not charging more. The parts cost pennies, but the unit cost has to be less than $1. They could easily get $10 for the same box. I already have the other units so i will use them. The blink pattern is different but they do blink.

https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/pdfs/LSC-100A_diagram.pdf