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Has this crankshaft passed the point of no return?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
just thought I'd offer.

The rods are the special parts I was interested in -suz#12161-49302
I thought that might be the reason ... but wasn't sure.

only 74.50 bucks back?? and I offered you a $400 unit?
Well ... I still have the crank in hand ... and will not be shelling out $$$ to ship it ... which I would need to do if we were trading cranks.

I dodged a bullet on that one, thanks for passing
That went right over my head. I'm not sure that I understand what you are saying (semantics).
BTW I didn't mean to irk you. Your offer was appreciated. :)
 
Glad to help Normand. I talked to Mike & if he had never pulled the rotor off the crank himself, there is no way he would've known it looked like that. If you send it to Pearson, the closest to you I think, he will change that end & make you a nice piece. Ray.
 
The 1150 crank will fit in the 1100 cases. If you have an 1150 cylinder you can to a 1229 with all that.
But you will need a big end crank rotor and starter clutch.
 
The 1150 crank will fit in the 1100 cases. If you have an 1150 cylinder you can to a 1229 with all that.
But you will need a big end crank rotor and starter clutch.

and so on and so and so forth.
parts and labor's not cheap plus as i mentioned...
the rods could be stepped...stepped equals junk.
what's up bill!
 
and so on and so and so forth.
parts and labor's not cheap plus as i mentioned...
the rods could be stepped...stepped equals junk.
what's up bill!
Nada too much
Working and riding.
Love the new motor in the E frame.
It's a runner.
 
Glad to help Normand. I talked to Mike & if he had never pulled the rotor off the crank himself, there is no way he would've known it looked like that.
I had asked him for many pics ... but it never dawned on me to ask him to remove the rotor. Lesson learned for a very long time. :(

If you send it to Pearson, the closest to you I think, he will change that end & make you a nice piece. Ray.
That's exactly what I'm thinking of but am not in a hurry. I'll put it aside and relax for a while LOL!
 
So how hard was it to get the rotor off?
It was easy because I have the required puller and...
when I took the crank out of the box, the rotor spun a bit on the end of the crank. As of then, since it was loose, I felt that something was probably wrong ... which proved to be the case when the rotor was removed.
 
when a rod wears it gets a stepped area on each side of it where the bearing rides.
if a person didn't know better they'd think it was made that way...not so.
that crank will never hold a rotor again...even if its welded on.
the small left sides like to snap off at the main bearing.
somethings got to give...
a starter nut would be fine as there's no weight...but thats for an outboard stater/dragbike thing.
you never know with a pressed pin crank....the rods may be like new.
 
when a rod wears it gets a stepped area on each side of it where the bearing rides.
if a person didn't know better they'd think it was made that way...not so.
I'd be slinging the bull if I told you that I understand LOL! I'm not even sure what you mean by "stepped area". Is this inside the big end of the rod where the bearing sits, or on each side of the rod?

that crank will never hold a rotor again...even if its welded on.
the small left sides like to snap off at the main bearing.
somethings got to give...
I thought that might be the case but was just guessing.

you never know with a pressed pin crank....the rods may be like new.
How could you know other than removing them from the crank?

Thanks!
 
John Pearson has examined the crank and advised me that the rods are very stepped (not usable). :eek:
Therefore, later on this summer, I will send him the crank from a 1983 GS1100E motor that I have.
Thanks guys!
Normand
 
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