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Have to squeeze lever hard for brake light

  • Thread starter Thread starter craig
  • Start date Start date
C

craig

Guest
I have a 1982 GS650G. A couple times after getting off the highway, a car that had been trailing me let me know that my brake light wasn't coming on when I slowed down. I immediately ordered a new brake light switch for the right hand grip/lever. I installed it as soon as I got it in, and I could see the brake light come on when I squeezed the lever.

Soon after, I had another car driver tell me my brake light was out. I found that the light does come on, but I have to squeeze the lever in really hard.

What sort of adjustment would I have to make so the brake light comes on with a lighter lever pull? I can't quite figure out what to do. I appreciate any help you can give me.

Thanks,
Craig
 
Loosen the screw and slide the switch a little bit towards the outboard end of it's track.
Test it as you slide it, get it in just the right spot. No need to rmove the screws, just loosen them.
You should fix your rear brake light switch too, it's kind of like a back up for the front one.
 
And a thin flat tip just pressing on the brown waffle board will move it easier..and a tad further than the plastic cap will allow.
 
Perhaps the other guys dont't realize you don't know where the F brake switch is in the brake perch. Look under with for where the wire comes out and follow the directions above depending on the type of switch.
 
I have even had to remove the assembly because some previous owners had the waffle board installed the wrong way and it simply ran out of adjustment on the oval slots. IF IF you do have to remove the assembly, stick a baggie over the end of the bars and poke the screw driver thru the bag and remove it. This will catch everything thats gonna be falling out.

Loosening the 10 MM bolts on the clamp will allow you to roll the switch up a bit too. easier to disassemble and to reassemble.

I put just a dab of super glue on the very end of the little spring and put it back into the black plastic holder..they stay put then. Just an ever so slight amount does the trick.
 
Last edited:
chuck hahn said:
I have even had to remove the assembly because some previous owners had the waffle board installed the wrong way and it simplynran out of adjustment on the oval slots. IF IF you do have to remove the assembly, stiick a baggie over the end of the batrs and poke the screw driver thru the bnag and remove it. This will catch everything thats gonna be falling out.

Looseninmg the 10 MM bolts on the clamp will allow you to roll the switch up a bit too. easier to diosassemble and to reassemble.

I put just a dab of super glue on the very end of the little spring and put it back into the black plastic holder..they stay put then. Just an ever so slight amount does the trick.
Click to expand...

Super tips for this annoying job! A+!
 
chuck hahn said:
I put just a dab of super glue on the very end of the little spring and put it back into the black plastic holder..they stay put then. Just an ever so slight amount does the trick.
Click to expand...

Mine has a spring inside it user glue would remove the ability of it slide up and down in the casing.

IMO you are better replacing the little Pin assembly.
 
It worked!

It worked!

Thanks for all your help and suggestions! It was about 85 degrees in Chicago today, so I left work a little early to try this out--haha... I took tkent02's advice, loosened the screws of the switch and slid it towards the outside of the handlebar. That worked perfectly, and now the brake light comes on right away.

It drives me a little crazy that the solution was so simple, but sometimes I overthink things. I really appreciate everyone's help, even the ones I didn't get to. Thank you!
 
I keep my foot brake adjusted so I can activate the brake light before actually engaging the brake. Sometimes helps with tailgaters.
 
Yeah, I've been using my foot brake to activate the light more than anything else. Now I can feel comfortable operating the hand brake by itself at times, without being so worried about the people behind me.
 
If someone (that would be me) has been over zealous lubing the pivot bolt for the front brake, I've seen a build up of oil and dirt in those trigger units and that will cause them not to function. Take it apart, though mind that little spring, clean it out good. I would take some fine sand paper and clean the copper contacts as well. Mine is adjusted to where I barely put pressure on the brake lever and the light comes on. That might be a bit too sensitive for some.
 
Mine was doing the same thing, PO lost the spring, ball point pen, wire snips. The post that meets up with the handle was worn...... So I put a piece of heat shrink over the post, shrunk it on, adjusted, done.
 
That's exactly how my old switch was when I replaced it--it was totally filled with grease. I thought that might be the cause of the problem, so I hung onto that switch, but still installed the new one.
 
Old guy said:
Mine was doing the same thing, PO lost the spring, ball point pen, wire snips. The post that meets up with the handle was worn...... So I put a piece of heat shrink over the post, shrunk it on, adjusted, done.
Click to expand...

Hey, Old guy. Could you be a little more specific on how you solved this problem. I've got a handbrake that is missing the spring and maybe something else. All I've got is a little plastic piece inside the housing.
 
Tanerrc said:
Hey, Old guy. Could you be a little more specific on how you solved this problem. I've got a handbrake that is missing the spring and maybe something else. All I've got is a little plastic piece inside the housing.
Click to expand...

You can eliminate the mechanical switch all together and install a hydraulic brake fluid switch. I did that to both mechanical switches on my bike, works just fine.
 
Tanerrc said:
Hey, Old guy. Could you be a little more specific on how you solved this problem. I've got a handbrake that is missing the spring and maybe something else. All I've got is a little plastic piece inside the housing.
Click to expand...

Search for a new switch on e-bay. The whole switch including wires and connector is only about $10. It's just like the original.
 
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