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Head gasket leak - so frustrated

  • Thread starter Thread starter mike_of_bbg
  • Start date Start date
M

mike_of_bbg

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My head gasket has started leaking oil about 150 miles after installation - as usual, from the front left. Ugh, this is so darned frustrating. I've searched and there are several threads, but a lot of the information is conflicting.

First, this is an Athena head gasket. Yes I installed the little copper crush rings in the corners. Yes, I used locktite blue on the side bolts. Maybe I needed to re-torque it earlier. I tried re-torquing the gasket, but of course once it starts leaking... It's a slight weep, but I'd like it to stop.

Lots of folks say "go OEM only". But then, the OEM gasket is now an MLS. Then there are lots of comments about how MLS requires perfect sealing surfaces as well as perfect alignment of stars and planets or they'll leak.

I have a Noboru head gasket that I haven't used yet. What I really feel like doing is spraying both sides lightly with permatex copper, and coating the top and bottom of the corner crush washers with threebond. I've never had an issue with using spray copper on head gaskets before, but then almost every thread a bunch of folks say "only install dry".

At least the Dyna seems to be working out really well.

Well, I can make a day of replacing a needle valve, rebuilding the cam chain tensioner, and replacing the head gasket. I don't mind springing for OEM, but honestly I just don't want to pull the head every other month. The OEM MLS sounds like the riskiest option of all. What do the GS gurus have to say? OEM? Cometic? Seal the Noboru?
 
Get OEM gaskets and if you just did the base gasket don't worry about it. If not do the base gasket.
Take the cylinder and head to a machinest and get them milled and the MLS will work just fine. Don't wash the sealer off the gasket though.
 
chef1366 said:
Get OEM gaskets and if you just did the base gasket don't worry about it. If not do the base gasket.
Take the cylinder and head to a machinest and get them milled and the MLS will work just fine. Don't wash the sealer off the gasket though.
Click to expand...

did you know that you could run a factory shim gasket on your 1166?
 
I'd say check both the head and cylinder for warpage and for a smooth surface finish - a surface plate really helps tell if things are flat.
 
I've found a couple of ebay NOS old-school (corner crush washer) OEM Suzuki head gaskets. Would it be better to get one of those or buy a new MLS type gasket?

Any thoughts on a thin coat of threebond on the washers (NOT on the gasket)?
 
I got my bike hot right after I did the head and 1166 from lean settings. It pitted the combustion area of the head on 2&3. I also feel I had some warpage. Now after the second blown head gasket (the first from heat and it hangs on my wall of shame) I decided to get the cylinder and head milled and repair the pitting.
I am now a strong believer that if you tear down get the mating surfaces cleaned and milled. It'll save you some headaches.
I have a rally to go to in less than a month and I have a bike with no top end including one piston sitting in my driveway. I can get it done and I'm not worried about it but this bikes been done twice now. :o
 
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You should be able to spray some copper coat on the gasket without any problems
 
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