4
4cyl h2
Guest
been looking like the MLS gaskets are fixed what whats been your experience Cylinder has been O ringed but wire is copper compression going to be 11-11.5 to 1 mostly street riding gs 1100 4 valve
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M
madmikeracing
Guest
I have had mixed results from Cometic gaskets, If using the MLS type the surface rms finish must be 50 max or under!! MLS require smooth surface finish to seal correctly. I use copper and oring in my other drag engines, If street bike I would just machine (I have ground them before block and head) and mls gasket, Some guys glue the crap out of the surfaces with gasgacinch and other stuff but I haven't had any leaks yet with using nothing at all on them. Just smooth and flat and properly tightened torqued down, Mike
4
4cyl h2
Guest
Corse problem is kinda difficult to go back to O ring if i finish it off smooth and mls leaks ive heard good and bad sure seems like a good design
not sure what you mean about mls gaskets being fixed? I have a few of them in my gasket collection but I don't use them. I use cometic fiber and copper all the time.
I am not a fan of O ringed cylinders unless they are absolutely necessary, say like if you are going north of 14-1 / turbo/ other super high cylinder pressure applications. First time I heard of o ringing a cylinder was for aircooled 2 strokes where they replace the need for a head gasket all together. now people use them in addition to a gasket and realize that you have to tear them out and replace after they flatten out. Sure the performance industry try to convince you need them - you don't - wait until you have a pressure sealing problem then do the modification. very common on Harleys when all you have to do is rev it up and the compression comes out the side. rarely do Gs have this problem.
my advise is to use a reuseable copper gasket buy 1 gasket and use it over and over and over again... the only down side is oil retention becomes a slight problem at the head and base. don't fight it accept it. With a GS that feeds oil thru the rear outer studs- forget a effort less show engine - you are going to have to wipe the base and head dry regularly. if you don't want the seepage problem don't modify your GS and or use a tube of silly cone but after a few heat expansion - and cooling contraction cycles it's going to seep - and is not a problem if you stay on top of wiping the engine down.
- copper spray sealer helps - let it fully dry before installing. old timers use gasketsinch probably because of the racy label - others use that yellow weather striping glue- yuck. none work perfectly.
who anneals their copper head gasket before installing? I do every time. put a torch to it and watch the rainbow. I know so many guys that don't know what it does and why you should do it. Most all of them do not do it. but hey? what do you really want out of free advise - something to argue with ?
at 11-1 you could use any gasket you wish that has the expanded bore of the 1260 , and the mls seals pretty good to a smooth iron cylinder sleeve top- not so much at the oil pressure feed.
imho, having the oring mod done to your cylinder kind of seals the deal with copper being you best choice.
I am not a fan of O ringed cylinders unless they are absolutely necessary, say like if you are going north of 14-1 / turbo/ other super high cylinder pressure applications. First time I heard of o ringing a cylinder was for aircooled 2 strokes where they replace the need for a head gasket all together. now people use them in addition to a gasket and realize that you have to tear them out and replace after they flatten out. Sure the performance industry try to convince you need them - you don't - wait until you have a pressure sealing problem then do the modification. very common on Harleys when all you have to do is rev it up and the compression comes out the side. rarely do Gs have this problem.
my advise is to use a reuseable copper gasket buy 1 gasket and use it over and over and over again... the only down side is oil retention becomes a slight problem at the head and base. don't fight it accept it. With a GS that feeds oil thru the rear outer studs- forget a effort less show engine - you are going to have to wipe the base and head dry regularly. if you don't want the seepage problem don't modify your GS and or use a tube of silly cone but after a few heat expansion - and cooling contraction cycles it's going to seep - and is not a problem if you stay on top of wiping the engine down.
- copper spray sealer helps - let it fully dry before installing. old timers use gasketsinch probably because of the racy label - others use that yellow weather striping glue- yuck. none work perfectly.
who anneals their copper head gasket before installing? I do every time. put a torch to it and watch the rainbow. I know so many guys that don't know what it does and why you should do it. Most all of them do not do it. but hey? what do you really want out of free advise - something to argue with ?
at 11-1 you could use any gasket you wish that has the expanded bore of the 1260 , and the mls seals pretty good to a smooth iron cylinder sleeve top- not so much at the oil pressure feed.
imho, having the oring mod done to your cylinder kind of seals the deal with copper being you best choice.
i have a 78mm cometic new in the pack if interested...
copper that is.
copper that is.
4
4cyl h2
Guest
How about you blowerbike mls or copper i can get it (fairly smooth) any experience with mls if copper whats your
suggestion on sealer for copper it will have ape studs
suggestion on sealer for copper it will have ape studs
i myself would not use an MLS with o-ringed liners.
also i use Gasgacinch on copper head and base gaskets.
with the APE studs you can torque it down to 40lbs. safely.
APE nuts would be a nice touch.
if using an 1100 head you only need 6 of the HD nuts instead of 12.
also i use Gasgacinch on copper head and base gaskets.
with the APE studs you can torque it down to 40lbs. safely.
APE nuts would be a nice touch.
if using an 1100 head you only need 6 of the HD nuts instead of 12.
I like MLS gaskets because you DON'T oring the cylinders like you have to with copper. I don't know what leak issues JD is referring to above but I DO use Gasgacinch & it has nothing to do with the label on the can. I use it because it WORKS! When I put an engine together, I put 2 coats on each surface of the case, cylinder block top & bottom, head & both sides of the gasket. Let it dry between coats & after the last coat. When you put them together it is a MOTHER to get them apart if you do it this way & they don't leak! The motor in my small tire bike was put together in 04 & hasn't been apart since & does NOT leak or seep anywhere. That is how I do them. Just MY take on it.
Ray.
Ray.
Another thing about oringing cylinders & using a copper gasket, if you DO oring the cylinders, DON'T use copper wire for the orings!!! It will crush eventually & you will lose seal on that cylinder when it does. I oring all of the ones I do with PIANO wire! It is stainless wire & will NEVER give you an issue afterwards. It is only a little more work to install but just a better product in the long run. Just to let you know another of the things I have found that helps longevity.
Ray.
Ray.
4
4cyl h2
Guest
ray are saying theyve got these MLS gaskets working good and reliable? how smooth a finish finish to make it work ?
and are you saying use gasgasinch on mls just like copper?
G
Guest
Guest
Since the MLS gaskets came out, we rarley o'ring blocks. In fact we try to talk people out or it. The big nitrous Pro Mo0da use the MLS gasket and the good studs.
4
4cyl h2
Guest
ok how smooth finish surface need to be??
what about the o-rings in the liners?
i have never removed o-rings before as far as to change gasket style.
i was just wondering if the o-ring area on the liner tops would maybe make for a weak spot on the MLS sealing area....maybe not with his compression but if a person added a power adder later on.
i was just wondering if the o-ring area on the liner tops would maybe make for a weak spot on the MLS sealing area....maybe not with his compression but if a person added a power adder later on.