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Hello all / general questions, opinions needed

  • Thread starter Thread starter JustPlainJef
  • Start date Start date
J

JustPlainJef

Guest
I will admit, I didn't search or check the FAQ, but I wanted to say hello too...

I have a '78 Suzuki GS 750. Don't know the mileage off hand, but it's sat for two years now in my garage. The tires are flat (rear one has 2 - 3 day leak), the gas is still in there, needs some other work...

I just finished my BRC through Northern Illinois University (GREAT class), and now I wanna get my bike running, so I though I'd pop in and get some opinions.

Here's what I know I need to do / get...
1. Tires
2. Helmet
3. Insurance
4. Empty fuel, refill (adding bottle of carb cleaner if it's worth it, buddy also recommended SeaFoam)
5. Change oil
6. Instrument cluster lights don't work (will be riding in dark every morning, eventually)
7. Front brake rotors a little warped

That's about it for now... Just looking on recommendations on all of the above, anything you want to throw at me, (just taking point 1 as example, what are decent tires, not great, not crap, where to (not) buy them, etc...). Also, if there's anything I missed, please feel free to kick it my way...

Thanks in advance to all, and I hope to spend a bunch of time in here!!!


Jef
 
Get a service manual first. In order to get it running right you'll need new VM carb o-rings and intake o-rings. Check compression and valve clearance. Vacuum petcock needs to be checked. If rust in tank it will have to be treated. Check Ebay for new(used)rotors. Check inside headlight wire cluster for bad connections and check and clean all grounds.

http://www.cycleorings.com/
 
Restoring an ol 750...

Restoring an ol 750...

Jeff:
Lets all try to point ya in the right direction
1-Tires: Opinions vary alot in this forum as to the brand & cost of tires, they still make tires for your machine from alot of manufactures' the good news is the cost of a set of tires for yours is a fraction the cost of tires for the new bikes, costs run from $40 per tire to up to $150 for some of the best ones.
2-Helmet: The overwhelming opinion here is DO NOT get one of these goofy half helmets nor an open face type (Some still disagree here) , the prefered ones are the full-face style...comfort & correct fit are the number one priority here with cost coming up a distant second.
3-Insurance: Tricky here as costs & coverage vary from state to state, the one agreeded upon thing is get some formal rider training, usually the insurance companies see this as a serious attempt on your part to be the best rider you can & will often cut you a break on rates.
4-Fuel/carbs: This one is straightforward..the machine being as old as it is you will have to deal with rust in the tank, gummed up carbs, clogged or leaky petcocks & leaky float seats..again would be covered in a manual.
5- Oil-change: Really easy to do as per a service manual...I like the factory service manuals myself & they are still available...but you may have to do a little searching to find em.
6-No instrument lights: Most likely a ground problem, possibly all the bulbs are out, corroded connectors going to the headlight bucket or a fuse out on that circuit.Most common is corrosion at connectors & grounds.
7-Warped rotors: Do you know for sure its' a warped rotor..vibration? could you mike it?...They can't be ground flat as a car rotor & will need to be replaced.
Hope that helps some.
_________________________________________Rick..........
 
Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks all! As far as tires, any brand / retailer recommendations, Rick? I know TireRack.com is great for car / truck tires, but they have no cycle tires. :cry:

I was planning on a full face helmet, it's worth the protection...

Not too worried about insurance, I know Progressive has some pretty good MC rates... Just looking for "Avoid XXXXX company" or "Don't forget XXXXX coverage because blah blah".

Carbs were rebuilt two years ago by the guy that gave me the bike, so they shouldn't be too bad, and I got someone to help me on it. Speaking of which, he might have given me the MOM / service manual too...

I can do the LOF, just added it so I didn't get "Don't forget to change the oil".

Instrument lights - I'll have to dig into this, but thanks for the idea of checking the grounds. The service manual will have the wiring diagrams, right?

Rotors, I am pretty sure it's them. I get a bit of pulsing in the brakes when I, uh, brake. Nothing when rolling. Don't remember a lot of noise from them, just the pulsing under brake pressure...

Chef1366, thanks for your ideas too! Hopefully, by the end of the week I can have updates for you guys.


Jef
 
The carbs might need a real cleaning. If they had gas in them just pull them and get them cleaned out.

Tires, that all depends on how you want to ride. If you want long life and decent grip then touring tires are a good route. K491's are a good one. If you want to really romp on it then a softer tire will be better for you. Just do some looking for what is good, and someone will probably post here on this one two.

I would take the bike through the normal tune up routine. Most of the problems that the engines have is from being out of tune. Best of luck.
 
Riding Style

Riding Style

Oh yes... I will be riding to work and back, and long drives in the more rural areas out by me. Not looking to use it as a crotch rocket, just want to cruise on it. As it's a new license to me, I want to get rid of any thought of pushing the bike... Touring tires would be best, I reckon...

Who makes the K491's?
 
Made a pit stop on the way home, not too thrilled, but I don't know any better, so I'll solicit the group...

Just checked the bike, CS Hi-Max tires, front is still fine, rear is still flat. I'll replace both if I can (front has air but has been sitting for two years, I think it got wheeled out of the garage once).

Tires recommended - Kendra or ChengShin (yeah, spelled wrong, I'm sure you know the ones). About $50 - $60 front, $60 - $70 rear. I forgot the models.
$100 mounting if I buy the tires from them and take the bike in. $50 if I take in the rims.

Helmets - http://www.zamp-racing.com/rz-10.htm Zamp RZ-10, $159, 30% off, $110. They are the hang loose ones, which are a little busy for my liking, but I'd wear it, and it's 30% off. Are Zamp decent? Also had 3/4 face for $60, so like $40 after rebate, didn't get brand.

Couldn't get me rotors, but got me part number, told me to go salvage???

Called another place, $40 / tire mounting if bought through them. Dunlop K70 or D404, both tires about $90 in either set, so $180 + mounting = $260. OUCH!

Anyway, that's where I'm at. Thanks again for all the help guys!
 
Stuff

Stuff

Jeff:
OK...K491s' are made by Dunlop a very well respected brand your choice of Kendas are toward the bottom of the food chain for tires....I tend to prefer the "name brands" Dunlop,Michelin,Pirelli,Bridgestone,Metzler,etc....but you pay a premium for em. A 'Dennis Kirk' is a large outlet for bike stuff, some shops will look at you with a disapproving smirk if you don't buy there tires from their store...I've found it best to find a small well rounded store (Not a 'dealership') & strike up a rappore with them....often if you get a bunch of little stuff from them they will cut you a price break on the big stuff...tires included. A decent manual will have a wiring diagram from which you can chase down those pesky electrical gremlins.
For the rotor this site is by far the best deal on info & all of us here will bend over backwards to help you out...including chasing down parts (Rotors). (See " parts wanted).
Never heard of Zamp helmets but thats' OK as they all have to pass DOT/Snell regulations for integrity. A good fit is most important...so that means you really can't buy them mail order.
Have you looked into Formal training??Heres a small question for you...all motorcyclists should know this as it has to do with how a bike steers...What is "Countersteering".?...these are the kind of things you would learn in a classroom & you should know before you do battle out on the dangerous streets. Hope this helps...OK?
________________________________Rick...........
 
Thanks Rick

Thanks Rick

Yeah Rick, I took the class, the BRC at NIU referenced in post #1. Here in IL, it's free ($20 to reserver seat, you can ask for the $20 back, but most donate it to the program). Friday 6 - 10 in the classroom, Sat & Sun was 8 - 6 w/ 5 - 6 hours bike time each day. They give an evaluation on site end of Sunday, then a written test. If you pass, you get a card and you can take it to the DMV and walk out with a liscense. \\:D/

I know Dunlop,Michelin,Pirelli,Bridgestone, but for bikes, I wasn't sure what was "name brand". For my Jeep, there's a lot of very popular tires that many on-road people haven't heard of... Is http://www.tiresunlimited.com/default.htm a pretty good place for tires? The site design seems solid, I like the pictures of each of the tires. Prices seem quite fair too... Can some / many / most tire shops do moto tires? Also, do all of them need tubes?

I will definately check here for parts. I called Kansas Cycle Salvage (http://ozpowersports.com/, any one dealt with them?), he said the pulsing may be the tire, and to replace it first. As I was replacing the tires anyway, and the pulsing was not terrible, I thought it to be a good suggestion... I haven't looked through here yet, but I will...


Thanks again to everyone for putting up with me. I'm going to be spending a bunch of money, and I like getting my research done first. You guys are great! :-D
 
I buy anything Dunlop that they can get in my size.

You most likely will need to go to a motorcycle shop to get tires mounted. If there are tubes in the tires when they get them, they will likely put new tubes in to replace them.
 
Thanks all!

Thanks all!

OK, I got the bike going, it started up and ran fine. We took the old gas out and added fresh gas and it started fine. Going to get license and title and plates today... \\:D/ :-D :)

I'm going to hold off on the tires for a little while... The plan is to ride the bike for the rest of the season and sell it in the spring. Just use it to get better on the bike... If the plan falls apart, then I will look into the tires in the spring. They really aren't cracked or anything, and the front one still had air in it... So last piece of maintenance is the oil change. Any recommendations? I haven't looked in the MOM yet, but I'm getting there. But since you are all so cool, I thought I would ask you first.

Once again, '78 GS 750.
 
fastpakr said:
Some of the worst service in the business, though.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I dealt with them once.........


As to oil changes.....sit back and read :-D :-D

I use Fram filters and Castrol 10-40.

be careful with the o ring that goes in the filter cover.
It may not seat correctly and crimp causing a leak.
And be VERY careful with tye nuts on the filter cover, very easy to over tighten.
Snug uis good
 
JustPlainJef said:
I know Dunlop,Michelin,Pirelli,Bridgestone, but for bikes, I wasn't sure what was "name brand". For my Jeep, there's a lot of very popular tires that many on-road people haven't heard of... Is http://www.tiresunlimited.com/default.htm a pretty good place for tires? The site design seems solid, I like the pictures of each of the tires. Prices seem quite fair too... Can some / many / most tire shops do moto tires? Also, do all of them need tubes?



Thanks again to everyone for putting up with me. I'm going to be spending a bunch of money, and I like getting my research done first. You guys are great! :-D
Click to expand...

Tiresunlimited is a good place to buy from, I did.

not all tyra's need tubes.

do you know you can change and balance them at home, or possible have them changed at a car tire store (the machine needs to grip the rotor, i do it at work for mine) and balance them at home between two jack stands?
 
JustPlainJef said:
Made a pit stop on the way home, not too thrilled, but I don't know any better, so I'll solicit the group...

Just checked the bike, CS Hi-Max tires, front is still fine, rear is still flat. I'll replace both if I can (front has air but has been sitting for two years, I think it got wheeled out of the garage once).

Tires recommended - Kendra or ChengShin (yeah, spelled wrong, I'm sure you know the ones). About $50 - $60 front, $60 - $70 rear. I forgot the models.
$100 mounting if I buy the tires from them and take the bike in. $50 if I take in the rims.

Helmets - http://www.zamp-racing.com/rz-10.htm Zamp RZ-10, $159, 30% off, $110. They are the hang loose ones, which are a little busy for my liking, but I'd wear it, and it's 30% off. Are Zamp decent? Also had 3/4 face for $60, so like $40 after rebate, didn't get brand.

Couldn't get me rotors, but got me part number, told me to go salvage???

Called another place, $40 / tire mounting if bought through them. Dunlop K70 or D404, both tires about $90 in either set, so $180 + mounting = $260. OUCH!

Anyway, that's where I'm at. Thanks again for all the help guys!
Click to expand...
I put Kenda's on my 550 and are happy with them. I'm probably like you, not a crotch rocket, lots of highway riding. Can't tell you about mileage on the tires or about their rain performance but I am happy with them.
 
I didn't read evey post, but here is what I did with a derilect bike that had set in a barn for over 5 years. Start with the critical and work out.

1. Does the spark plug spark (use another pattery ... don't buy one 'til you know it will be worth fixing) If yes, the wiring is probably OK ... if not trouble shoot it.
2. Will is fire by spraying starter fluid through the carb
3. Will it run from the carb. You can use a funnel and hose for a temporary gas tank.
4. Is the charging system working.
5. Now you can work on the tires, signals, seat, etc.

A simple axiom to all this: Don't put a $500 paint job on the tank if the engine isn't running ... or buy $300 tires, etc.....
 
Oil

Oil

Got the bike titled / insured / licensed yesterday, then put about 25 or 30 miles on it around town. \\:D/ Would have ridden it to work, but it's gonna be nasty today... http://www.weather.com/weather/map/60067?from=36hour_map_large (As of 5:17 AM). :cry:

Anyway, on to the oil change... I'm at work, so I don't have the manual w/ me. 78 GS 750. Buddy said that in his Goldwing, he is supposed to use oil without friction reducing components because the clutch is in the oil. Is that the same w/ my GS? Also, are the friction reducing components the norm or the exception? I got some MobilClean 5000 at Wal*Mart the other day, planning on using that unless I'm not supposed to. Also, I grabbed three quarts, will that be enough?

And yes, I know this is all in the repair manual, and I am planning on reading it cover to cover soon, just not today (like I said, at work at the moment)...

Thanks guys, you ROCK! =D>
 
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