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Hello, I have a mess of a bike

  • Thread starter Thread starter maxhog650
  • Start date Start date
M

maxhog650

Guest
Hello gs riders. Lucky me! I just picked up a 1978 gs550 for 100 dollars, Not working. Although i am an unexperianced "mechanic", or college student with a hammer, I have done some intensive work on my maxim and thought i would fix up a gs over the winter.

So the start of my woes came when i began a little diagnostic. Battery good. no starter, no solenoid click, but if i bridge the gap it works fine. No spark. sounds good with a kick. PO sais ran recently, but who doesnt. Anyway, im betting this is an electrical issue. and all i know about electricity is.....dont lick a battery.

Does anyone have any suggestions where to start. New solenoid is probably a good idea. Does anyone have a wiring guide, and maybe an explanation of what a wiring guide is? Every wire on this bike is hanging loose so Im thinking I might have to re-do entirely.

Honestly I would like to get this working and then decide if i want to fix it or part it out. Considering it needs tires and a title thats about $350 right there and i dont want to spend much more than $700ish

oh yeah, and the spark issue. I have a multimeter, but it probably cant handle a spark voltage, Is there anyway to test the ignition cables?
 
Thanks Dave, Speeking of dumb questions. One thing I have done succesfuly is remove and clean carbs, I figure it can never hurt to take a peak. But:confused: I cant manage to get these out. Whats the deal?
 
I'm sure bikeclif will be along with his MEGAWELCOME but I'll post a link anyway

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

GO there and download the GS550 8Valve shop manual..
The complete wiring diagram in in there..


No as to your current issue..
No spark and no starter..
Little fact.. on the GS550 (and many others) the Ignition and Starter are powered by the SAME circuit.

An Orange wire feeds power to the kill switch on the right handle bar.
Test that wire for 12v.. No power there means no starter or ignition.
Your Key should be set to on when you test the orange wire.
You can trace that orange wire back to your ignition switch (key)..

Also check the Red wire that feeds the ignition switch (key) This should always show 12v if the battery is good.
This is the only fused circuit on the bike.. the fuse holder in an inline job under the left side cover.

After the handle bar kill switch the orange wire splits into Orange/White to power the ignition and Yellow/Green to the starter button then on to the solenoid.

Check for 12v at the coils with your test meter.. there should be a bullet connector on the Orange/white wire feeding the coils you can probe.
The ignition key should be turned to on and the kill switch set to run.

Test the starter relay circuit by probing the yellow/green wire (another bullet connector). you should see 12v while pressing the start button with the ignition key turned to on and the kill switch set to run.



I don't know how much you know about bikes so I'll throw this out there.
A common mistake for first time bike owners is to put the key into the park position.. (2 clicks to the right from off) All park does is light the tail light.. NO starter or ignition power..

The run position is 1 click right from off.
 
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Thanks Dave, Speeking of dumb questions. One thing I have done succesfuly is remove and clean carbs, I figure it can never hurt to take a peak. But:confused: I cant manage to get these out. Whats the deal?

Did you remove the airbox first? and all the cables and fuel tubes?

Best thing is to spend some money on a proper manual for that specific bike and go through each section you will be working on. Here is the best advise I can give you is....

A. Sheet of paper and masking tape to make notes and keep track of everything you take off the bike and where it was originally. If you have a digital camera take pictures of your process. Take your time. If you don't have the right tool, don't use something that is "close enough"...I've done that and it cost me more than double the effort and time.

B. Small clean tupperware boxes are mint for putting everything from each part of carbs or sections of your bike in a place safe. Buy one of those magnetic containers for holding your nuts and bolts so you don't put them on the floor and then kick them under a shelf :)
 
B. Small clean tupperware boxes are mint for putting everything from each part of carbs or sections of your bike in a place safe. Buy one of those magnetic containers for holding your nuts and bolts so you don't put them on the floor and then kick them under a shelf :)

Excellent tip that is..
I use Zip lock freezer bags but tupperware works just as well.
Keep a sharpie handy and mark each container. I'll sometimes even draw a rough parts diagram on the bag to show where it came from.
 
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Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. maxhog650,

Your starting issue could be caused by a dirty starter button. Check the "Electrical Odds and Ends" section of my website for troubleshooting tips. Now let me say "Hi"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Thanks, this will be an excellent start. sscherring, you just saved my day, i was turning the key two clicks to the right. my yamaha actually just has on/off so i had no idea. Still doesnt work but atliest i wont look like an idiot, that might solve the spark thing. Thanks everyone for the list, i have the electrical checklist printed as well as the manual on my computer.
hopefully i will get some good time in this weekend, it will be the first time im not hoping for snow
 
You don't remove the airbox to take the carbs off

1. Remove gas tank
2. Remove air filter box
3. Unbolt airbox and slide towards rear
4. Loosen all 8 clamps on carb boots
5, loosen throttle cables from mounts and let them hang
6. Pull carbs back and up, prying boots out of the way as necessary
7. slide carbs out to right and unhook cables

Your electrical problems could be as simple as a dirty push button, very common. It is 31 years old after all
 
Maxhog, don't sell it, these guys have the knowledge to do it online and I would lay odds that if someone is close enough to you they will come by and help. This I know, I got a visit from a wonderful member, Steve who showed me alot just through a simple look see and conversation.
 
Considering it needs tires and a title thats about $350 right there and i dont want to spend much more than $700ish

I think this is wishful thinking. Even if you knew what you were doing and could get the parts for cheap you would be looking at least 1k easy. New OEM parts are expensive and the list grows real quick on old bikes. I've resurrected 3 bikes so far and spent well over 1k on each.
 
Anyway, im betting this is an electrical issue. and all i know about electricity is.....dont lick a battery.

PRICELESS!!!! :D

BTW - Welcome aboard.

Don't give up, the early 550's are great bikes. The guys here will be happy to answer your questions. This forum has all the GS answers.
 
I think this is wishful thinking. Even if you knew what you were doing and could get the parts for cheap you would be looking at least 1k easy. New OEM parts are expensive and the list grows real quick on old bikes. I've resurrected 3 bikes so far and spent well over 1k on each.

Not to mention all the nickle and diming you do after ya get it one the road.
 
Not to mention all the nickle and diming you do after ya get it one the road.

+1 on that!

Once you start riding the bike, you realize that it needs new shocks and fork springs. As your trips get longer, a more comfortable seat, a windshield, highway bars, luggage rack, top case, saddlebags, GPS..etc. The list goes on and on.
 
bike cost

bike cost

it doesn't always cost a grand.

I found a 80 750 on craigslist for $100 and got is running AND registered for another $200. (been driving it for a month or two now) It can be done. don't buy what you don't need.

check odd and end placed for parts make sure to look online for stuff. Get the bike running first, and don't worry about brakes and tires till your driving.

also make sure it is either registered as inoperable or your registration is good for a while. you don't want to be hit with another several hundred dollars on back registration later.

Happy trails.
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gotta post pics of the ride, it looks great for 30 cuz it sat in a garage for 9 years. :D his loss my gain.
 
Get the bike running first, and don't worry about brakes and tires till your driving.
Sorry, but this REALLY SCARES ME. :eek:

How can you seriously consider driving your bike BEFORE making sure it has good tires and brakes?

Yeah, save them until the last, to make sure the engine works and all that, but PLEASE ... don't ride on bad tires and brakes. :pray:


.
 
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I found a 80 750 on craigslist for $100 and got is running AND registered for another $200. (been driving it for a month or two now) It can be done. don't buy what you don't need.

check odd and end placed for parts make sure to look online for stuff. Get the bike running first, and don't worry about brakes and tires till your driving.

also make sure it is either registered as inoperable or your registration is good for a while. you don't want to be hit with another several hundred dollars on back registration later.

I don't really know how to respond to this :confused: You're full of sh*t..that's all I can say. Transfer of title, registration, inspection and tags will cost $200 in my state. Anyone who would ride a bike with bad brakes and tires is just plain stupid. Not only are you putting your own life in danger but others around you.
 
it doesn't always cost a grand.

I found a 80 750 on craigslist for $100 and got is running AND registered for another $200. (been driving it for a month or two now) It can be done. don't buy what you don't need.

check odd and end placed for parts make sure to look online for stuff. Get the bike running first, and don't worry about brakes and tires till your driving.

also make sure it is either registered as inoperable or your registration is good for a while. you don't want to be hit with another several hundred dollars on back registration later.

Happy trails.


--------------------------------------------------
gotta post pics of the ride, it looks great for 30 cuz it sat in a garage for 9 years. :D his loss my gain.


My 82 wasnt registered for three or four years(cant remember) and all I paid is 78 bux.
I love GA!
 
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