Help fixing my harness

[Paul]

I have unwound the tape on my harness on my 1100GLZ, and am trying to repair, rewire and modify so it is as efficient as possible.

it has been patch repaired over the years by POs. first off I am trying to make sense of the worst part, this is the connector to the LH controls which it had melted

I just assumed that this bike had been imported from the US but looking at the loops that are on the connector, the wiring diagram for Canadian models looks closer to what I have, unless a PO had modified that part?, there was a modified headlamp switch on the handle bars when I had it as a non runner, so as I say it has been messed with but I don't understand why I have a grey wire in this lot, and non of the diagrams show one ( I don't think)

here is a picture of what It looked like to start with

and this is what I have now

Here is a diagram of basically what I am holding in my hand (less a connector)

is there any point rewiring these loops back in, am I better off just finding the shortest route? and is there a simple way to find out if this bike is from Canada, ....Thanks

Heres a link to this diagram as its a bit small on here

 

[posplayr]

I have unwound the tape on my harness on my 1100GLZ, and am trying to repair, rewire and modify so it is as efficient as possible.

it has been patch repaired over the years by POs. first off I am trying to make sense of the worst part, this is the connector to the LH controls which it had melted

I just assumed that this bike had been imported from the US but looking at the loops that are on the connector, the wiring diagram for Canadian models looks closer to what I have, unless a PO had modified that part?, there was a modified headlamp switch on the handle bars when I had it as a non runner, so as I say it has been messed with but I don't understand why I have a grey wire in this lot, and non of the diagrams show one ( I don't think)

here is a picture of what It looked like to start with

and this is what I have now

Here is a diagram of basically what I am holding in my hand (less a connector)

is there any point rewiring these loops back in, am I better off just finding the shortest route? and is there a simple way to find out if this bike is from Canada, ....Thanks

Heres a link to this diagram as its a bit small on here

The W/R and W/G wires are infamous Stator loop through the left hand switch plug. This gets very hot as designed using a SHUNT R/R.

You can eliminate that by wiring your R/R stator wires directly through to the R/R.

See GS Charging Health in my signature for more details on your R/R connections.

 

[Paul]

OK Thanks,
I wont worry about that for now then, as I plan to mod to a 6 wire RR, I'm drawing a diagram at the moment MS Publisher, and will incorporate the mod (plus any other recommended mods) once I have read up on how to go about it, then post up by diagram for you ( or anyone else ) to scrutinize if you don't mind

 

[Paul]

SIze cable for Ignition and earth

SIze cable for Ignition and earth

as an upgrade what size (AWG) are you recommending for the ignition (R) and main ground (B/W) in the harness?

 

[posplayr]

as an upgrade what size (AWG) are you recommending for the ignition (R) and main ground (B/W) in the harness?

are you opening up your harness to replace those wires? The only one in the stock harness that I would say is undersized is the B/W from the crimp (inside the harness). The crimp ties together several B/W grounds and so the two B/W with ring lugs are probably one size down. However if you do the single point grounding here should be no issues.

Check and clean all connectors(some thing to dissolve corrosion); use dielectric grease of Detox-it. This is where the main issues in the harness are.

Also I prefer to eliminate the connectors between the R/R and the rest of the bike by direct soldering. There is just too much risk for bad connections.

 

[Paul]

Yes the harness is open I have taken out the Stator W/G which loops through the LH controls connector, also the W/B from the loop to the RR and the yellow from the RR to stator, and cut out the red, but made an error there by cutting the fuse box side instead so I will replace that with a completely new red, as it can only be a good thing (I think). I have ordered red thin wall 10 AWG (2.5mm dia) with a nominal current rating of 28amps

The main thicker B/W that runs from the headlamp, through the harness with smaller B/W teeing in to it, to a ring terminal which I guess would have been to the battery, mods have been carried out at the headlamp so I cant be sure it is original but it is the same diameter as the Yellow and white that go into the H4 connector (they are all OD of 2.7mm)

I have a spare SH232-12 which is the same as what is on my 1100G from the PO, but reading the RR thread I think will go for a higher amp unit such as one from a CBR1000RR..... possibly this one, it's a SH678FD, its not on Matchless's list, but the SH678B is

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251293836799?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I will reef knot and solder the yellows to the stator wires. I will also be adding the coil mod
Cheers
Paul