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Help identify this clutch

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
I finally got my little cushion installed behind the clutch, but I may have another issue?

I noticed that this basket is a bit taller around the outside parameter than the stock one. It comes very close to the casing. I have about 1mm clearance. It still seems to fit just fine, and I don't see how there can be any play in the basket, but wanted to post these pics and get your comments. These first two pics are the aftermarket basket:

100_3336.jpg


100_3338.jpg


and this is the stock one:


100_3339.jpg


Not much clearance in the stock one either, but more than the aftermarket one. It looks like I could shave a bit off the casing if I need to. Does anyone forsee any problems?
 
Looks fine to me.

The baskets will have play in them. Well, at least with mine, you have to shim them to get the right gap. But nothing like what your showing.

You did a nice job with the goob. I never take my time cleaning it up and always too much on. It looks good!
 
mystery clutch

mystery clutch

i ran across the same clutch in a yoshi engine of 1978 vintage it has 5 heavy springs and is welded as yours is . i would take a pic but it is in the bike and performs very well .as are the rest of the yosh goodies like the hi volume oil pump cams and head.
the disks and steels were the same as yours . might it be a yoshi hipo part from the boys at suzuki.
toolman
 
I believe that should read "high volume oil pump, cams, and head"

But that's just me...


Mark

It's the NEW English; leave out all the caps, spaces between words in the proper place, and punctuation marks.
 
i ran across the same clutch in a yoshi engine of 1978 vintage it has 5 heavy springs and is welded as yours is . i would take a pic but it is in the bike and performs very well .as are the rest of the yosh goodies like the hi volume oil pump cams and head.
the disks and steels were the same as yours . might it be a yoshi hipo part from the boys at suzuki.
toolman

If you ever take the cover off, shoot me a pic. And thanks to the info.

I trimmed a tiny bit off the inside of the case to give it some more room in case it does move a little. I only had about 1mm of room, now I have about 5mm.

100_3402.jpg



100_3404.jpg
 
Hey Bruce, nice basket you got there. I ran an MTC forged basket for an 1100 in my GS1000 drag bike back in the day, and it was so tall I had to trim the basket down just to fit in the cases. I cut the case back as far as I felt comfortable with first.....Anyway, rule of thumb is to have twice the thread depth (in aluminum) as the bolt diameter for a good grip. Be very careful when you tighten that one center bolt at the front as mine always leaked a little oil there as I was afraid to tighten the bolt much, and there is not enough room to install a heli-coil...Been there and done that...A dab of sealer may help.......Billy
 
Good job Bruce! Looks good.
If I had some time off I'd love a road trip to help ya. I bet we could get that puppy together in a day. ;)
Teamwork.
 
Couldn't you just run a gs1100 basket that is trimed down, say about 3/8" or if you were tricky with a cnc machine make a spacer?

Hey Bruce, nice basket you got there. I ran an MTC forged basket for an 1100 in my GS1000 drag bike back in the day, and it was so tall I had to trim the basket down just to fit in the cases. I cut the case back as far as I felt comfortable with first.....Anyway, rule of thumb is to have twice the thread depth (in aluminum) as the bolt diameter for a good grip. Be very careful when you tighten that one center bolt at the front as mine always leaked a little oil there as I was afraid to tighten the bolt much, and there is not enough room to install a heli-coil...Been there and done that...A dab of sealer may help.......Billy
 
Couldn't you just run a gs1100 basket that is trimed down, say about 3/8" or if you were tricky with a cnc machine make a spacer?

Yes and yes. I have an 1100 basket in my street GS1000....It has the full set of factory 1100 plates (one more than the 1000) but requires cutting down the length of the basket by a small amount, trimming the cases to about what Renobruce did to his, an extra long "release rack" (the part the torrington bearing goes on), an approximate 1/2" spacer for the clutch cover, re-bending of the rear brake pedal arm, and moving the right foot peg out a bit.....When I am sitting at a traffic light, I can touch flat footed with my left foot but not the right...small price to pay for a bullet proof clutch.....If you tried to put the 1100 basket in without a spacer, you would have to cut the length of the basket down a lot. You may also have to machine down the pads on the basket where the spring bolts go into (for proper tension). You also may end up with one less clutch plate than stock (which is not desirable if your making any power)....I have 3 stock clutch springs and 3 slightly stronger than stock springs in mine and can pull the clutch in with 2 fingers..........Good to chat with you guys, I just pop in every once in a while to see who's doing what.......Billy
 
So what would be your recommendation for me. I am running a parallel build to Bruce and planed on going with a modified GS1100 billet basket since I don't think anyone offers a gs1000 basket anymore.

My brief correspondence with Big Jay said they might be able to do something, and he was thinking cutting down a GS1100 billet basket 3/8" or so.

But as I understand you, if I cut one down that far then I would be running less disks, not a option I want.

So basically my option is to run a gs1100 basket, pay a lot to have a spacer machined, and extra long release rack made? Who would even do that?

I am just trying to get educated on this before I start talking to machine shops and vendors. This is my first build and I want it to go right.

-SORRY FOR THE HIJACK BRUCE-

Thanks!
-Ryan



Yes and yes. I have an 1100 basket in my street GS1000....It has the full set of factory 1100 plates (one more than the 1000) but requires cutting down the length of the basket by a small amount, trimming the cases to about what Renobruce did to his, an extra long "release rack" (the part the torrington bearing goes on), an approximate 1/2" spacer for the clutch cover, re-bending of the rear brake pedal arm, and moving the right foot peg out a bit.....When I am sitting at a traffic light, I can touch flat footed with my left foot but not the right...small price to pay for a bullet proof clutch.....If you tried to put the 1100 basket in without a spacer, you would have to cut the length of the basket down a lot. You may also have to machine down the pads on the basket where the spring bolts go into (for proper tension). You also may end up with one less clutch plate than stock (which is not desirable if your making any power)....I have 3 stock clutch springs and 3 slightly stronger than stock springs in mine and can pull the clutch in with 2 fingers..........Good to chat with you guys, I just pop in every once in a while to see who's doing what.......Billy
 
So what would be your recommendation for me. I am running a parallel build to Bruce and planed on going with a modified GS1100 billet basket since I don't think anyone offers a gs1000 basket anymore.

My brief correspondence with Big Jay said they might be able to do something, and he was thinking cutting down a GS1100 billet basket 3/8" or so.

But as I understand you, if I cut one down that far then I would be running less disks, not a option I want.

So basically my option is to run a gs1100 basket, pay a lot to have a spacer machined, and extra long release rack made? Who would even do that?

I am just trying to get educated on this before I start talking to machine shops and vendors. This is my first build and I want it to go right.

-SORRY FOR THE HIJACK BRUCE-

Thanks!
-Ryan


My clutch had an extra plate and fiber over stock. With those installed, there was no room for the release rack to work. I took them out, and it is now exactly the same distance as the stock clutch to the cover.

I would think you could trim down an 1100 basket. If you want, I can take some accurate measurements of mine... I haven't filled the engine with oil yet.

The guy who welded my crank said he could have taken my stock basket and "banded" it with aluminum. He said he's done it before to both Kawis and Suzukis and that they are quite strong. If you want I can give him a call to see what is involved and how much. He might even have some pics I can scan.
 
My clutch had an extra plate and fiber over stock. With those installed, there was no room for the release rack to work. I took them out, and it is now exactly the same distance as the stock clutch to the cover.

I would think you could trim down an 1100 basket. If you want, I can take some accurate measurements of mine... I haven't filled the engine with oil yet.

The guy who welded my crank said he could have taken my stock basket and "banded" it with aluminum. He said he's done it before to both Kawis and Suzukis and that they are quite strong. If you want I can give him a call to see what is involved and how much. He might even have some pics I can scan.
The GS1100 uses an aluminum shim or spacer that fits inside the clutch spring on the bolt. This causes the pressure plate bolt to bottom on it at torque. The GS1000 does not use this. If Bruce took out the extra plate and left out those aluminum spacers he may have found the short cut. That spacer is about the thickness of the combined thickness of one friction plate and one steel..........But I am pretty sure you weill have to use GS1100 friction discs as they are different in diameter.......Billy
 
My clutch had an extra plate and fiber over stock. With those installed, there was no room for the release rack to work. I took them out, and it is now exactly the same distance as the stock clutch to the cover.

I would think you could trim down an 1100 basket. If you want, I can take some accurate measurements of mine... I haven't filled the engine with oil yet.

The guy who welded my crank said he could have taken my stock basket and "banded" it with aluminum. He said he's done it before to both Kawis and Suzukis and that they are quite strong. If you want I can give him a call to see what is involved and how much. He might even have some pics I can scan.


yes Bruce i would love some measurements and more detailed photes of the basket with a tape measure if you don't have everything bolted up yet.

not sure what these spacers are I'll look them up in fiche when i am more awake.

the more info i have the better i can talk to ape or falicon.

thanks
 
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