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Help installing Airbox to Carbs on '81 GS750L

  • Thread starter Thread starter keeena
  • Start date Start date
K

keeena

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I have spent a total of about 15 hours trying to get these things installed. I already read through quite a few posts that indicate how difficult this is and hints on how to get them on. No problem getting airbox in, then sliding carbs in. Can get carbs attached to motor intake boots fairly easily too. But can't get that damn airbox on. Airbox is not bolted to frame. I've tried:
  • lubing the velocity stacks
  • heating them
  • removing velocity stacks from airbox and installing onto carbs prior to pushing carbs in place (hoping that I could press the stacks into the airbox). Carbs were impossible to install this way however.
  • pressing the airbox through the air filter attachment hole w/ a long screw driver
  • prying the stacks w/ a screw driver

These things will just NOT go on. Definitely the worst thing i've ever come across in my years of wrenching. Whoever designed this setup was sadistic. Seriously. Its an absolutely horrible design.

Anyways, are there any final tips before I sell this thing? I will not go to pods (not that I think they are bad...I'm just not putting tuning time into this bike). And I'm not going to the trouble of unbolting the motor...rather sell it. The only other thing I've read was to get new velocity stacks. The rubber is somewhat hard, but I'm not sure if new ones will make a difference (they did install fine when i pulled them out of the airbox and stuck them on the carbs individually). If they are highly recommended, I may try 'em. And if so...where can I find them (P/N and price)?
 
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I take it that you are fitting and old air box with old rubber boots.

If you are lucky and can buy new rubbers to airbox (some models they are an integral part of the airbox) the best solution is to replace them. If that is not an option then soak the rubbers in hot water to allow the rubber to become plyable. you will need to be quick remvoing them from the water and getting the carbs on without then cooling off or getting water in the airbox or carbs.

Normally the carbs are better suited to fit to the airbox first then pulled onto the intake boots on the engine after.

Put half the airbox in place but unbolted to the frame. Slide the carbs in from the right hand side as you sit on the bike. Attached the carbs to the airbox boots and clamp on. then push the carbs and airbox onto the intake boots on the engine.

I have heard of somebody loosening/removing the front and lower engine bolts and loosening the rear mounting bolts and using a jack under the engine lower the engine forward a little to allow a bit more space for this job. He was doing a full restoration of his bike and it didn't have any exhausts on at the time.

Suzuki mad.
 
Yeah, I tried doing the airbox before the intake boots - no dice, they will simply not slide on as a whole unit. Even quickly tried putting the airbox on w/ the carbs on my bench; no luck there either. They just seem to not line up well as an assembly. I have messed around w/ turning the rubber tubes, etc...

The velocity stacks could be replaced for my particular airbox...they do come out.
 
I don't know if yours are like mine or not, but on my '82 GS650 I wrestled when them for longer than I wanted....then I took them all off and put them on the ground. Then I noticed they were 2 different heights. The longer ones went on the outside...they were also slightly angled and the shorter ones on the inner two carbs. After I figured that out they slid right on. I felt like a complete idiot.

I put the middle two on by reaching through the airbox and the outer two on from the outside.
 
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keeena said:
I have spent a total of about 15 hours trying to get these things installed. I already read through quite a few posts that indicate how difficult this is and hints on how to get them on. No problem getting airbox in, then sliding carbs in. Can get carbs attached to motor intake boots fairly easily too. But can't get that damn airbox on. Airbox is not bolted to frame. I've tried:
  • lubing the velocity stacks
  • heating them
  • removing velocity stacks from airbox and installing onto carbs prior to pushing carbs in place (hoping that I could press the stacks into the airbox). Carbs were impossible to install this way however.
  • pressing the airbox through the air filter attachment hole w/ a long screw driver
  • prying the stacks w/ a screw driver
These things will just NOT go on. Definitely the worst thing i've ever come across in my years of wrenching. Whoever designed this setup was sadistic. Seriously. Its an absolutely horrible design.

Anyways, are there any final tips before I sell this thing? I will not go to pods (not that I think they are bad...I'm just not putting tuning time into this bike). And I'm not going to the trouble of unbolting the motor...rather sell it. The only other thing I've read was to get new velocity stacks. The rubber is somewhat hard, but I'm not sure if new ones will make a difference (they did install fine when i pulled them out of the airbox and stuck them on the carbs individually). If they are highly recommended, I may try 'em. And if so...where can I find them (P/N and price)?
Click to expand...


Lemme tell ya...
I tried everything on my GS850. I heat them with a heat gun, boiled them in water, covered 'em in WD40, smeared 'em with KY... I kicked and swore for WEEKS!!!!

Then I dropped $40 on Bike Bandit for new boots.

It was like warm apple pie... they slid right in like... they should.
I would have spent $400 just to get this kind of result. Now it takes me no time flat to pop them on and off. AND they make a better seal at the airbox, so less leaks.

Drop the cash, save your brain!
 
RMC - The stacks looked identical when i pulled them from the airbox. And i kept them in the same order when I reinstalled them.

Mr. Brown - thats the first-hand info I was looking for.

In the following parts fiche: did you just purchase part 2 from the diagram? I'm guessing #3 is the metal ring which goes inside the tube to provide stiffness/seal to the airbox. Not sure if the ones I have now are reusable?

Airbox Fiche for 1981 GS750L
 
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It looks like 2 is the rubber boot. Its that old funky rubber you gotta replace. I do not have a reinforcing ring my assembly. I'd imagine that if it is still round and smooth it'll be fine.

However, every time you say, "this should be fine," it will eat at you while you're riding. Like, "Maybe I should have spent an extra $5 and replaced them for the heck of it..." I replace hoses, gaskets, and o-rings every time I uncover them, because I don't know how good they are, and the little cheap things make a huge difference.
 
keeena said:
RMC - The stacks looked identical when i pulled them from the airbox. And i kept them in the same order when I reinstalled them.

Mr. Brown - thats the first-hand info I was looking for.

In the following parts fiche: did you just purchase part 2 from the diagram? I'm guessing #3 is the metal ring which goes inside the tube to provide stiffness/seal to the airbox. Not sure if the ones I have now are reusable?

Airbox Fiche for 1981 GS750L
Click to expand...

Here is Road Clams ancient chineese secret......

Take a 14" length of coat hanger, and bend one end about 1" using a 90 dergee bend. Bend a section about 2" at 90 dergees at the other end. Now jam the 1" end between the stubborn boot and the carb and work the boot while pushing on the airbox over the carb spigot. This tool works awesome on the 2 middle carb boots..... This make getting the airbox boots on the carbs a snap...
 
I've had my box off 3 times....to clean, and re-clean my carbs... my bike is an 81, the first time, I had a bit of a time....the " lips " kept rolling in, or not starting....I found that what worked for me, was that I sprayed them first with some lube, then....I tipped the box towards the bottom and started the bottoms' first, then tipped the whole thing upwards, and held that with one hand, and worked the boots that caught with a small flatheaded screw driver.
Then I had to hold the bottom of the box whilst starting the bolts.... after the first time, after that it was easy....But, not sure if your set up is the same....pictures of what your talking about would probably be more helpful to diagnose
Good luck!
 
I think the 1100 I have is almost just like yours. This was my solution.
motorcycle019.jpg
 
The problem I'm having is that they dont even start to go onto the carbs. The airbox deforms. I can sometimes kind of get the left (#1) or right (#4) stack on, but the rest of them will not go on. I did see that coathanger tool trick in another thread. Its not that the boots get folded over/partially on...they flat out just do not even remotely fit on the carbs. Its like they don't line up well w/ the carbs. I cant even push the airbox onto the carbs when its on my workbench, let alone on the bike.

Ordering 4 velocity stacks...we'll see what happens.
 
2 quick questions:

For those who have new-ish air tubes...how loose are they on the carbs? I ordered the correct P/N on BikeBandit, but they are quite a bit larger than the originals. They don't come close to making an airtight seal (didn't try clamping them...just loose fit over the carb). BB said that Suzuki has replaced the original part with this newer one, and BB indicated that sometimes the new parts don't work like the original & may need modifications (whatever thats supposed to mean).

These new boots are so loose that they appear to be for a larger carb diameter. I'm wondering if there are other models w/ the same carbs as the GS750L...maybe I can cross-reference a set of tubes from another model? The tubes i rec'd look identical to mine, other than the fact that the diameter is ~8mm larger than what they should be.

I could build up the carb intake so that they are a larger diameter...I assume creative use of electrical tape or something else to make a tighter fit? I hate mickey-mouse jobs, but that might be the only answer.
 
Well, just some add'l info incase anyone comes across this thread w/ the same issue...

I did end up using the new boots. They are MUCH larger than the original tubes I had on there, but with some bending they will fit into the airbox (warmed the boots w/ a heat gun, bent the circle into a "U" shape and then was able to fit them in). They don't appear like they would create a good seal, but the clamps will actually cinch them down onto the carbs fairly well.

It was very easy to get the airbox onto the carbs since these tubes are much larger than the original ones. Even tho they are still a bit big IMO, they are DEFINITELY worth it if your originals are giving you problems. I didn't realize how soft the tubes should be are until i got the new ones; I can barely deform the original tubes while the new ones are very squishy.
 
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