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Help me figure out how to start my bike.

  • Thread starter Thread starter StubbornDutchman
  • Start date Start date
S

StubbornDutchman

Guest
Is there a link to a thread about troubleshooting an ignition system that i cant find? If so can someone point me in the right direction? The bike is a 1982 GS650GL. I was given the bike by my brother who found it in the back of a barn. A good bit of the wiring harness was burnt between the airbox and battery. I've fixed all that up but it still wont turn over. I was given a new starter solenoid by another GS'er and told it works but i can't guarantee it... Is there a way to bench test the solenoid to confirm it works? I'm trying to start it without a battery, I'm using a booster pack that is more than adequate connected to the battery leads. It reads 12.53V at the leads. If i connect the + clamp of the booster to the lower post on the solenoid that leads to the starter the motor turns over. But if its connected to the normal battery lead and I hit the starter button i get nothing. Does this guarantee that my solenoid is fried? I'm so confused.

I'm also still learning a TON about electrical so if you can take it slow with me when you explain what i need to do i'd be very appreciative.
 
Im unsure of the solenoid arrangement. If it's 2 small leads and 2 large posts energize the two small leads and the unit should provide continuity through the larger posts. If it's a single lead and two large posts then the unit is recieving it's power through the larger cable and is switching off of the single small but it should function similarly. Unsure which solenoid is common on the GS, mine's at home right now but I am familiar with newer solenoids.
 
You probably didn't get your fried harness 100%- there's a smalll trigger wire that fires solenoid when button is depressed; there's also a clutch safety switch along the way from starter button to solenoid. The small terminal on solenoid will trigger a (good) solenoid when 12 volts positive is applied to it -use a jumper wire and try it with your battery to battery hookup.

Pick one these diagrams to see how circuits are laid out

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/gs650wiring.html

Edit; the solenoid frame must have a good ground or it won't trigger when 12 volts is applied to small terminal
 
Last edited:
RedBaron said:
Im unsure of the solenoid arrangement. If it's 2 small leads and 2 large posts energize the two small leads and the unit should provide continuity through the larger posts. If it's a single lead and two large posts then the unit is recieving it's power through the larger cable and is switching off of the single small but it should function similarly. Unsure which solenoid is common on the GS, mine's at home right now but I am familiar with newer solenoids.
Click to expand...


The Solenoid on my bike has two larger posts with 10mm nuts on them located in the top right and bottom left corners when looking at the left side of the bike. And a small yellow wire with a stripe on it going into the solenoid below the large post on the right.
 
tom203 said:
You probably didn't get your fried harness 100%- there's a smalll trigger wire that fires solenoid when button is depressed; there's also a clutch safety switch along the way from starter button to solenoid. The small terminal on solenoid will trigger a (good) solenoid when 12 volts positive is applied to it -use a jumper wire and try it with your battery to battery hookup.

Pick one these diagrams to see how circuits are laid out

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/gs650wiring.html

Edit; the solenoid frame must have a good ground or it won't trigger when 12 volts is applied to small terminal
Click to expand...


I'll try this. O how I hate the necessity of good grounds. Fortunately, I'm on my way to my nieces baptism right now. Unfortunately that means i'm away from my bike likely until tomorrow. If anyone else thinks up something good just let me know and i'll test that too.
 
Wait just a minute.....

Does my IC unit need to be mounted to my airbox to be grounded? Its just hanging there for now because my airbox is out being cleaned up. My wiring diagram seems to suggest that my IC gives my starter button its power. If its not grounded could this be why my starter wont fire from my starter button?
 
StubbornDutchman said:
Wait just a minute.....

Does my IC unit need to be mounted to my airbox to be grounded? Its just hanging there for now because my airbox is out being cleaned up. My wiring diagram seems to suggest that my IC gives my starter button its power. If its not grounded could this be why my starter wont fire from my starter button?
Click to expand...
What is an "IC unit"? :-k


Now back to your original question: If you have your starter pack connected to the battery wires, turn the key ON, pull the clutch lever in, push the stater button. If the starter turns, your solenoid is fine.

Now, if you need more help in getting it to start and run, you will also need to ensure that the rest of the wiring and the fuel system are all in good order.

.
 
StubbornDutchman said:
Wait just a minute.....

Does my IC unit need to be mounted to my airbox to be grounded? Its just hanging there for now because my airbox is out being cleaned up. My wiring diagram seems to suggest that my IC gives my starter button its power. If its not grounded could this be why my starter wont fire from my starter button?
Click to expand...
Nope! If by IC you mean ignition module ( ignitor). Your ignitor could be in next province and starter button would still fire solenoid. However, the ignitor and R/R are on a plate and best to have that grounded for charging purposes. The starter button and igntion coils (with ignitor) receive power seperately from kill switch which is supplied by the 10 amp "ignition" fuse.
 
Steve said:
What is an "IC unit"? :-k


Now back to your original question: If you have your starter pack connected to the battery wires, turn the key ON, pull the clutch lever in, push the stater button. If the starter turns, your solenoid is fine.

Now, if you need more help in getting it to start and run, you will also need to ensure that the rest of the wiring and the fuel system are all in good order.

.
Click to expand...

Apologies. I typically work in a shop with my brothers and we have some names for parts that others may not follow. I'll try to keep on top of the right terms to help you all. Tom got it right. I meant Ignitor Control by that. I guess it's actually just called an Ignitior.

Carbs aren't even on the bike right now. I just finished rebuilding them with new o-rings and cleaned up the airbox and carb boots. Maybe I'll have time to get that all remounted after work today.

tom203 said:
Nope! If by IC you mean ignition module ( ignitor). Your ignitor could be in next province and starter button would still fire solenoid. However, the ignitor and R/R are on a plate and best to have that grounded for charging purposes. The starter button and igntion coils (with ignitor) receive power seperately from kill switch which is supplied by the 10 amp "ignition" fuse.
Click to expand...

I'll check for power at my fuse block again when I get home. It was there a week ago though.

On the bottom left corner of my wiring diagram there is something called a "starter disconnect switch" that seems to get power from my starter button and then goes to the solenoid. Is this the switch on my clutch leaver?
 
StubbornDutchman said:
On the bottom left corner of my wiring diagram there is something called a "starter disconnect switch" that seems to get power from my starter button and then goes to the solenoid. Is this the switch on my clutch leaver?
Click to expand...
Yes, that is the "safety" switch in the clutch lever.

Note that it only disables the starter, not the ignition or anything else. There are no nanny switches that kill the engine if you put it in gear with the side stand down. Nothing else like that. That "safety" switch only requires that you pull the clutch lever to enable the electric starter.

If you think you are adult enough to trust yourself to verify the bike is in neutral before pushing the starter button, it is VERY easy to bypass it. Just follow the wires (yellow/green) into the headlight bucket. There, you will see that they end in a pair of bullet connectors. Disconnect them, then take the connectors that were on the main harness side and connect them to each other, leaving the clutch switch connectors loose. Now, you don't have to pull the clutch to press the starter button. :D

.
 
Steve said:
Yes, that is the "safety" switch in the clutch lever.

Note that it only disables the starter, not the ignition or anything else. There are no nanny switches that kill the engine if you put it in gear with the side stand down. Nothing else like that. That "safety" switch only requires that you pull the clutch lever to enable the electric starter.

If you think you are adult enough to trust yourself to verify the bike is in neutral before pushing the starter button, it is VERY easy to bypass it. Just follow the wires (yellow/green) into the headlight bucket. There, you will see that they end in a pair of bullet connectors. Disconnect them, then take the connectors that were on the main harness side and connect them to each other, leaving the clutch switch connectors loose. Now, you don't have to pull the clutch to press the starter button. :D

.
Click to expand...

Good to know. Thanks very much. I figured it could easily be jumped when I saw it was just a two wire switch.

Next question. When I turn my key to the "On" position, should I have dash lights and running lights working? Currently absolutely nothing happens when I turn the key to the on position. If they are supposed to turn on what should I check? I know all my fuses are intact but I haven't checked them to see if there is power going through them yet. I can do that tonight.
 
StubbornDutchman said:
Next question. When I turn my key to the "On" position, should I have dash lights and running lights working? ....
Click to expand...
Yes, break out your multimeter and look for clues- corroded fuses/holders, toasted harness or good old dirty connections.
If you don't have an on/off switch for headlight in left switch, then headlight should come on too.
 
tom203 said:
Yes, break out your multimeter and look for clues- corroded fuses/holders, toasted harness or good old dirty connections.
If you don't have an on/off switch for headlight in left switch, then headlight should come on too.
Click to expand...

I do have a highbeam/lowbeam switch. But I don't think there is an on/off switch. I guess I have my work cut out for me eh? This is gonna be a steep learning curve.
 
tom203 said:
Yes, break out your multimeter and look for clues- corroded fuses/holders, toasted harness or good old dirty connections.
If you don't have an on/off switch for headlight in left switch, then headlight should come on too.
Click to expand...

BOOYAA! She's alive. Thank you very much Tom. It ended up being that the solenoid I was given and guaranteed was good, was not good. And the one I had taken off the bike, was actually good. Then I found power at my fusebox, but it wasn't getting through the fuses. So I cleaned all the places where the fuses are clamped in the fusebox. And all of a sudden I had dashlights, and power getting to my starter button. I jumped the clutch lever safety switch out, then tried the starter button. Still nothing. Took the button apart and a spider had made his nest in between the contact points at some point in the last 10 years. Cleaned everything out in there and she turned over right away!. Seems like i'm well on my way.

Only thing i'm not sure of yet is if the charging system is working or not. Guess I'll have to get those carbs mounted this week and get it running to find out.
 
When you get it running, check charging system ASAP. If it is charging make sure it's not overcharging -A bad R/R can cause a high voltage that could damage the "IC"- big bucks!
 
tom203 said:
When you get it running, check charging system ASAP. If it is charging make sure it's not overcharging -A bad R/R can cause a high voltage that could damage the "IC"- big bucks!
Click to expand...

Got an explanation or a good link on a step by step of how to do this?
Sorry for all the questions. I didn't even know I was such a noob. :oops:
 
StubbornDutchman said:
Got an explanation or a good link on a step by step of how to do this?
Sorry for all the questions. I didn't even know I was such a noob. :oops:
Click to expand...

Just check the voltage at the battery terminals with the bike running. It should be roughly 13.5v to 14.5v.
 
Ok. I'm getting places. Got everything mounted back on the bike. Its turning over nice and strong. But its still not starting. Checked for spark and everything is good. Checked the coils and they are reading at 4.5 Ohm across the terminals so thats within what it should be.

Pulled the cover off of the airbox and had my brother hit the starter button as I sprayed an old windex bottle of gas into the tunnel towards the carbs and it fired right up! Ran fine as long as i kept spraying.

Pulled a drain plug off a carb and a little gas dripped out but not much at all.:confused: So I pulled the lines off the Petcock and put it from RES to PRI. and nothing happened. I pulled the Petcock off and disassembled it and there was no fluid past the diaphragm at the Run Line that goes out and that was dry. I blew on the place where the Run line comes off and i can blow and suck air no problem. So it seems like my petcock is buggered twice over? Or am I missing something?

Are there any decent rebuild kits out there or are they all garbage?
Otherwise I'll dish out the $58 for a new Petcock. Unless someone knows where they are cheaper?
 
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