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Help me Leon! (and everybody) RESOLVED!!!

I gotta say the "noises" you're hearing do not sound good. Could be something beyond jetting. I hope not.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I think those noises were a loose exhaust manifold. That can make a hell of a racket at WOT for a moment. Luckly I didn't push it. I was convinced that my exhaust install was perfect, but the new gaskets probably crushed a little more after some miles. Gotta check everything. The noise wasn't there at all with the smaller mains on my test ride, and that was even before re-torquing the exhaust. But they were definitely a little loose.

I think I'm good!!!! This site rules. It's definitely therapy for me.
 
Jethro, rock on buddy!

WooHoo! :)

I don't know my butt from a hole in my head when it comes to this stuff but after following this I knew there was no way the jets were the issue.

So glad you found it man :D
 
I think your carb uses those "odd" shaped floats. Which part of the float did you use to make your measurements? I assume you removed the bowl gasket too before measuring. Fuel starvation would certainly cause your problems. I didn't see how it could be related to lean jetting. The jet kits usually work.
 
Yeah, my floats look like two flat teardrops on either side of the float valve.
I thought I had to bend the tangs a little too much, but the book said 20.4mm from the mating surface to the bottom of the float bulb. I set it so it was just touching the pin on the vavle needle. I guess you can't trust that too much, so I'll make sure to check with the tube gauge from now on. Still haven't gotten to test ride after the adjustments, but everything else runs so sweet now. It's flawless unless I am over 7k on the tach. I'm sure it is the float heights.

How much will changing the float heights change the richness of the pilot and needle circuits? I'm scared I made it too rich now for higher float values- it is burning nice and tan as shown in the photo above, but when I raise the floats, will it richen all the carb circuits?

I hope it's not back to the drawing board for me.
 
Well, the higher float heights didn't help. Still feels fuel starved at the top end. Gonna have to throw my Pingle valve in and see if that makes a difference. Guess I'll re-clean the carbs too.

Can an electrical problem only show up at the top end? It pulls hard until I really let the motor spin, then it stumbles. I don't get it.
 
Jethro said:
Gonna have to throw my Pingle valve in and see if that makes a difference.
Click to expand...

As much as I hate them, I am putting my money on this one now.
 
Jethro said:
Can an electrical problem only show up at the top end? It pulls hard until I really let the motor spin, then it stumbles. I don't get it.
Click to expand...

check your ignition advance, make sure it turns freely and is not gummy or frozen, it should snap right back when turned and released.
also if you have a voltage drop to the coils they will not be able to keep up under high load and high RPM.
 
if you have a voltage drop to the coils they will not be able to keep up under high load and high RPM.
Click to expand...

I'm assuming that I can check this by simply testing the voltage at the battery under different RPM's?

I'll check the advancer tonight as well.

Gonna really try and get this sorted out tomorrow. It will be warm enough to be able to road test it well and get plug readings at WOT.
 
Yes, weak ignition or messed up advance can definitely have a great effect on top end power. If your advance isn't advancing up there, power will trail off dramatically until it's just not there. Just ask my dyno numbers.243rwtq and only 165hp will tell you a thing or two in a hurry. Those are from my Volvo btw.
 
Jethro said:
if you have a voltage drop to the coils they will not be able to keep up under high load and high RPM.
Click to expand...

I'm assuming that I can check this by simply testing the voltage at the battery under different RPM's?

I'll check the advancer tonight as well.

Gonna really try and get this sorted out tomorrow. It will be warm enough to be able to road test it well and get plug readings at WOT.
Click to expand...

no, you have to check voltage at coils, power has to go from the battery to the fuse box (main fuse) to the ignition switch, back to the fuse box, back up to the kill switch before eventualy reaching the coils.
if you have the side stand kill switch add that into the equation.
lots of connectors and wire that can cause a healthy drop in voltage from what is at the battery.
what you need to do is measure voltage at battery with bike idling, then at the coils with the engine idling.
you will get false readings at the coils with the engine off.
also watch the voltage at the coils while reving the engine up.
 
Where exactly to I attach my multi-meter to the coils?
 
I finally got the chance to get a real ride in today after my jetting changes. What I was able to determine was that the bike has a flat spot between 6-7k rpms or so. Once it stumbles and feels fuel starved for a moment, it takes off again, with more power, pulling hard between 7-red line.

Think this could be my ignition timing? Again, how do I check the coils?

I'm gonna check the advancer tonight- I don't really know what I am looking for, but I'll figure it out.
 
Jethro said:
Where exactly to I attach my multi-meter to the coils?
Click to expand...

the orange wire with the white stripe is the power wire to the coils, check as close to coils as you can get.
 
Got to ride the bike hard yesterday for a good amount of time. Still can't seem to get it to not to run lean and still have a major flatspot at 6-7k rpm. After that quick 3-5 second stumble, she'll pull hard as heck again.

I've had enough of this, just made an appointment to get the thing dyno tuned. Hopefully the shop will be able to take care of it, becasue I can't.
 
Resolved! Another night of carb reworking and by George, I think I've got it! Dropped the needles to the middle and got rid of the mid range flat sopt. WOT, now pulls strong to redline. I still had some off-idle hesitation, but backed down on the mixture screws to 4 turns out, and now it runs smooth from 0-100. Starting is perfect. Half choke and it fires up no problem. I go to 1/4 choke for the 1st minute, then can go to idle no problem. Still, when it warms up the idle goes up about 300 rpm to 1500, and the tinyest bit of hesitation of the line appears. I am thinking that it is a fact of life with pods. All and all, I'm freaking thrilled that I got it running this nice!

Sweet! Bring on the summer...
 
Are you still running the stock suzuki air jet or have you switched to dynajets' ? My off-idle rsponse improved with the larger air jet.
 
I went back to the DJ160 air jet. I was able to start without choke from cold, which I hear is bad news (although I don't really know why), so I went back to the 160 air jet. I was able to improve my off-idle throttle response with the mix screws. Next time i go out I will spend another 20 minutes adjusting them, and I think I'll be spot on. I am phyched, this has been a long process, but I finally have it running sweet!
 
WHOO- HOO Jethro!!! Glad you got it tweaked just right finally!! 8) 8) :wink:
 
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