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HELP: Need to replace broken cam chain: What parts do I get?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dave_A
  • Start date Start date
D

Dave_A

Guest
Ok, my cam chain broke while riding...

What parts do I need to order (gaskets, etc) in addition to the chain?

Also, any tips/pointers on what to do to replace it?
 
valve cover gasket, thats if your old one lives when removing the cover. thats about all i know about bike timing chains, never tore into mine yet.
 
Further Info

Further Info

Ok, here's what happened... I was idling at a stop, there had been an unusual noise from the engine, and there's a 'clink' noise, the engine dies, and the cam-chain tensioner is now rotating freely...

Do I have to pull the head & cylinders to fix this, or is there an easier way? Also, I assume there's some sort of adjustment/allignment needed...

Is the cam chain a 'Must-buy-suzuki' part, or can I get an aftermarket part that would be (a) easier to find locally (suzuki parts I must order from ronayers), (b) cheaper, (c) better, or any of the above???

Can anyone give me more details???
 
If the chain broke you may have bent valves. Not what you want to hear. The big problem is that the old chain is probably down in the crankcase. In order to replace the chain the cases will have to be split which means the engine has to come out and torn apart
 
The first thing you can do is take the valve cover off and see if the chain is on or not. If it's gone missing turn the cam shafts to TDC compression and see if all of the valve stems come out. If any of them refuse to come out with the cams moved there are big problems. You'll still need to do a leak test later to make sure things are okay with the valves but the broken chain should get pulled out first.

One note when turning the cams, if something binds don't turn them. Pull the plugs to make sure that the pistons aren't interfering.

That's all I can offer but I am sure there is more to do.

Steve
 
Yup, you're most likely to be into a big job- I dread the day my timing chain may break. The problem is that once you get into it you may find a long list of other things that you'll need to do to make the original job worth it. Why do a 10 hour job when your rings are bad or your crank bearings are spent? In regards to the timing chain itself, I think you need to buy right through Suzuki. You may find a speed shop that would sell a modified upgrade, but it probably wouldn't cost any less. I'd skip the wild goose chase and talk to your dealer.

BTW, please post the outcome of the damage you encounter when you get into this job- I'm curious.
 
Additional info

Additional info

When it first failed, I tried to crank it back up before realizing what happened...

This resulted in the motor turning over normally a few times (but not starting), but now the starter binds when I try to crank it...

It was at idle (500rpm or so) when it failed, so I hope that any damage to internals has been minimized...
 
Another question:

Assuming it is a broken chain, and that I can remove the old chain from the engine without a complete tear-down (i.e. use a magnet stick, or finding where it's stuck), how far do I have to tear down to replace it? Can it be fixed by just yanking the head? Cylinders? Or do I have to tear the whole motor down irregardless of weather I can get the old chain out in one piece or not???

Also, someone mentioned something about a tool to un-pin cam chain links and then re-pin them... Would something like this make it easier (say, allow me to thread the chain with less disassembly), and if so, where do I get one???

Finally, I've seen some reccommendations to replace the automatic tensioner adjuster with a manual unit ($40 or so), but the APE one is for the big bikes... Does anyone make one for a 450 (I figure I might as well replace it while I'm at it, the big spring on the auto-unit is kind of dinged up, and it does (as usual) drip oil)???

P.S. My bike has just hit 9,000 some miles... I don't know the maintanance history, as I just got it last year. From the shape it was in (cracked up seat vynil, spoiled gas in the tank, plates expired in 99, with a nice sized (but fortunately unoccupied) yellowjacket's nest under the tail light), though, I'm not optimistic...
 
The cam chain may be caught around the crank by the sounds of it. Time to take out the engine and split the cases I am afraid.

If the camchain was still there you can feed a new one on, but it looks like this is not an option here.
 
Ok, I'm gonna rent a van and haul it home today...

I'll post more details when I get it in the garage and find out where the chain ended up...
 
The automatic cam tensioners can be rebuilt to be manual units. I have a 750E tensioner on my 400E and it is identical to the 1100E tensioner. I think all of the E tensioners are the same and use two bolts to hold them in.

Steve
 
New Problem

New Problem

It's not the cam chain...

I got the valve cover off, and the cam chain is in place and 100% functional (tested by cranking the engine with a ratchet (spark plugs out, fuel disconnected, no battery)...

It appears that something else is the problem...

So I am starting a new thread WRT this issue: WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY BIKE????
 
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