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Help O Sage Ones, Rounded Bolt Removal

marvinsc

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As I'm sure many of You know I picked up a 1991 GSX1100G in November, Naked Bike. I have since added a National Cycle Street Sceen and Today set about to install Case Guards. They aren't a Perfect fit as they are for a Bandit 650 but they are a Close fit. I got the Right side on per instructions provided by a Guy on the "G" Man site, here is a picture.
IMG_0015.jpg


As You can see, the top front bolt for the caseguard replaced the top motor mount bolt. The problem is the Motor mount bolt on the Left side started rounding off. I went and Bought a New 14mm 6 point socket but No luck. Any tricks or Voodoo to get it out? I won't be re using it so No concern about ruining it. Thanks in advance for any insight.
 
Only comment is to say that removing nuts off the screw is easier than trying to turn the screw while holding the nut stationary. Not sure this is significant but can't think of anything else.

Good luck.
 
No room to get to the Nuts with a Wrench, All I could do is Lock Long nosed vice grips on to keep them from turning.:?
 
sears has a bolt remover. its like a socket wrench but has chompers on it.
 
Two words - Pipe Wrench. It will bite on anything and the harder you turn, the harder it bites.

Mark
 
use a 12 point socket, preferably 1 that is a size too small or a fractional one, put it on the bolt using an extension and a hammer, the smallest socket you can hammer on.....you know the rest...
 
use a 12 point socket, preferably 1 that is a size too small or a fractional one, put it on the bolt using an extension and a hammer, the smallest socket you can hammer on.....you know the rest...

You mean the Cussing and Throwing stuff, Right?8-[
 
derwoods got a point (or 12) nyuk nyuk. other option is to find one of the newer sockets that contact the "flats" and not the edges of all 6 sides of the offending bolt.
 
I'm burning a sage bush and asking the rain gods. Get back to ya!
 
If you have an old socket and access to a mig welder you can weld the socket to the bolt. Just slip it on (or hammer it on as the case may be) and then blast a big spot of weld down the centre of the socket. The heating (and subsequent cooling) action helps to loosen the bolt as well. Once it cools it should come straight out.
 
I'm not an expert, but i've always been told not to weld anything on a bike if the wiring harness and electricals are in place. You stand the chance of frying all the delicate stuff.

Just something to think about. Anybody else hear of this?

Good luck with this problem.

cheers,
Spyug.
 
sounds to me like my suggestion-- high explosives-- would be your best bed for successful bolt removal. unfortunatley, everything else would be removed or... displaced... along with it.
depends on how much of a grudge you have against that bolt.
 
sounds to me like my suggestion-- high explosives-- would be your best bed for successful bolt removal. unfortunatley, everything else would be removed or... displaced... along with it.
depends on how much of a grudge you have against that bolt.

Since it'a a through hole with a nut on the other side I'm going to try a specialty socket first and if it rounds on off I'll cut the head off with a Dremel.
 
If that engine mount plate is like every other one I have seen on a GS, that "nut" on the backside is welded to the plate. Cutting off the bolt head will leave you no means of removing the bolt. I would cut a slot in the bolt head with a dremel using a cutoff disk and then use an hammer impact driver with a straight bit.

Earl

Since it'a a through hole with a nut on the other side I'm going to try a specialty socket first and if it rounds on off I'll cut the head off with a Dremel.
 
It actually is a Nut Earl, it's really tight and I can't get a wrench on it. I got the one on the Right side by Locking some long nose vice grips on it while I turned the bolt. The bolt on the Left started trying to Round off almost immediatly, I suspect it's Less that grade 8 hardware. I do like the Impact idea if the specialty socket doesn't work.
 
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