I am on my gs 1000 l,have t mark at about 11 oclock in line with what appears to be timing mark at about 11 oclock on the engine casing.marks 1-4 are at straight up position.According to the book this is right.But,now exhaust cam,the one on the right,or exhaust pipe side,will not lay down flat in the valley if number 1 marks is slighly below parralel to the head surface.Tappets on number 2 and 4 are raised up so it cant rest down flat in the valley.This leaves about 1/4 inch of daylight under the other cam lobes.If I put the cam cap bearing covers down over the cam you cant tighten the bolts down against the cam with it not resting down in the valley right? What am i doing wrong.I have tried many many times and there just doesnt seem to be any way to get the number 1 mark on the exhaust cam down below the parrlale level of the head and get the cam down in the valley.If the number 1 is up some and parallel to the head the cam sits in the valley more but according to everything I am reading you cant do this.What in the heck am I doing wrong? The motor aint going anywhere like this.Thanks,hope to get an answer and soon.Ron B
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
help!!! Panic mode on cam timing!!
- Thread starter ron bayless
- Start date
G
Guest
Guest
The crank trigger should be facing the 1&4 side (left or 9 o'clock) with the line on the T which equals top dead center for the #1 cylinder. Do this before even looking at the cam timings. Make sure the cam chain guide is in flush with the head and place the exhaust cam in place. Do not put on any cam caps yet. Face #1 arrow towards the front of the engine lined up with the head surface and #2 arrow facing close to straight up. With just enough tension without moving the crank pull the cam chain over the exhaust cam sprocket. Put on the exhaust cam caps. Put in the intake camshaft. Count 20 pins from the arrow that points up on the exhaust cam sprocket to the only arrow on the intake cam sprocket. (count the arrow directly above the arrows also) Before installing the cam caps on the intake camshaft put on the cam chain tensioner or you will bind the cam chain. After the cam tensioner is installed and released put on the cam caps for the intake cam shaft. Turn the engine several times and recheck the timing.
I'm not sure what you mean when you say "valley" but if you have a factory manual, there is a very specific process for timing the cams.
First thing to do is get the number 1 piston at TDC. Take the spark plug out and visually make sure the piston is at the top AND the "T" mark is aligned with the indicator mark on the right end of the crank.
Next, pull up on the cam chain at the front of the engine (you removed the tensioner right?) to remove the slack and loop it around the exhaust cam. Make sure the #1 mark on the exhaust cam sprocket is aligned parallel to the valve cover gasket surface when the chain is around the sprocket and the cam is in approximate position on the head. The cam will not lie down in all the bearings since some of the cam lobes will be pointing downward and hitting the tappet buckets. Don't worry about this at this time.
Next, put the intake cam into position timing the cams using the pin counting procedure as indicated in the service manual (it's a little hard to discribe).
To get the cam bearing caps to seat down properly you are going to have to compress the cams down into some of the tappet buckets. The factory suzuki manual shows use of vice grip pliers to clamp down on the cams prior to installing the caps. I can post a photo later if you don't know what I'm refering to.
Lastly, after all the cam bearing caps are installed and you varify all the marks are properly aligned on the cams, then reinstall the chain tensioner (after compressing it and setting the lock nut). Release the lock nut after the tensioner is in place.
Takes a little care but not all that hard of you follow the proper steps.
Hope this helps.
First thing to do is get the number 1 piston at TDC. Take the spark plug out and visually make sure the piston is at the top AND the "T" mark is aligned with the indicator mark on the right end of the crank.
Next, pull up on the cam chain at the front of the engine (you removed the tensioner right?) to remove the slack and loop it around the exhaust cam. Make sure the #1 mark on the exhaust cam sprocket is aligned parallel to the valve cover gasket surface when the chain is around the sprocket and the cam is in approximate position on the head. The cam will not lie down in all the bearings since some of the cam lobes will be pointing downward and hitting the tappet buckets. Don't worry about this at this time.
Next, put the intake cam into position timing the cams using the pin counting procedure as indicated in the service manual (it's a little hard to discribe).
To get the cam bearing caps to seat down properly you are going to have to compress the cams down into some of the tappet buckets. The factory suzuki manual shows use of vice grip pliers to clamp down on the cams prior to installing the caps. I can post a photo later if you don't know what I'm refering to.
Lastly, after all the cam bearing caps are installed and you varify all the marks are properly aligned on the cams, then reinstall the chain tensioner (after compressing it and setting the lock nut). Release the lock nut after the tensioner is in place.
Takes a little care but not all that hard of you follow the proper steps.
Hope this helps.
G
Guest
Guest
Hey Ed. A little different procedure but same result. VROOM!
YES! Please post a photo.I need it.
I see what you mean by trigger now.It is facing 9 oclock,marks 1-4 are up,t mark towards timing mark on motor,i put the intake cam with arrow parallel,started putting the exhaust caps on and because the cam is resting on 2 lobes facing downward when i tighten the caps as you said to do,the cam rocks backward and the arrow is now 1/4 inch or more above parallel to the head.What next? I cant even get the intake cam 20 pin thing started becaue of what i just said.It seems impossible.
Takes a little care but not all that hard of you follow the proper steps.
I cant do it.It is not easy.I can not push the tappets down.If i do try,the cams rocks back and the proper position is once again lost.
I cant do it.It is not easy.I can not push the tappets down.If i do try,the cams rocks back and the proper position is once again lost.
Are you certain you have the crankshaft on the "T" mark and not the |F1?
I know, a dumb question, but its all I can think of that would explain not being able to get the cams seated. They've always dropped right into place with only a very slight gap everytime I've done it.
E.
I know, a dumb question, but its all I can think of that would explain not being able to get the cams seated. They've always dropped right into place with only a very slight gap everytime I've done it.
E.
I was having trouble getting my 1100E back on time or so I thought. Everytime I would go to put the intake cam on,the exhaust cam would jump around knocking it all off time.
By holding the cam chain tight w/o cams and turn over the motor by hand, I made sure the chain was not bunched up anywhere and it gave me slack to put the cams on, timed perfectly.
Sometimes these things can seem so damn hard but a little break from it helps.
By holding the cam chain tight w/o cams and turn over the motor by hand, I made sure the chain was not bunched up anywhere and it gave me slack to put the cams on, timed perfectly.
Sometimes these things can seem so damn hard but a little break from it helps.
Last edited:
Yeeha!!!!
Yeeha!!!!
I got the $#@%^&$!!! exhaust cam on!!! I didnt think that the valve springs could be compressed.I used a tire iron to hold the sprocket from rotating and gently tightened all the bolts down crisscross fashion until the cam seated.Wheeeewwww.The cylinder block and head were nothing compared to that.And yes,i found the crank trigger,i compressed the tappets,and no it is on T and not F.Thanks guys.I appreciate it so much!!! See you on the next part probably.I remember changin the timning chain on an ltd,only way to hold the crank still to loosen the big nut was with a tire iron.
Yeeha!!!!
I got the $#@%^&$!!! exhaust cam on!!! I didnt think that the valve springs could be compressed.I used a tire iron to hold the sprocket from rotating and gently tightened all the bolts down crisscross fashion until the cam seated.Wheeeewwww.The cylinder block and head were nothing compared to that.And yes,i found the crank trigger,i compressed the tappets,and no it is on T and not F.Thanks guys.I appreciate it so much!!! See you on the next part probably.I remember changin the timning chain on an ltd,only way to hold the crank still to loosen the big nut was with a tire iron.
Suzuki recommends using a pair of vice grips to clamp down on the cam.
I hope you pulled the plug to make sure #1 is at TDC or you can easily have the cams off by 180 degrees. Don't ask me how I know.
Suzuki recommends using a pair of vice grips to clamp down on the cam.
I hope you pulled the plug to make sure #1 is at TDC or you can easily have the cams off by 180 degrees. Don't ask me how I know.
No i didnt,but i heard the whoosh when it reached top dead center,and 1-4 marks at at the top when at TDC and they were.It would be easy to check it your way too.I sure wouldnt want to do that whole procedure over again.I will stick a pencil down number 1 hole in the morning since the timing marks are still lined up.I expect to hit a piston top.I timed many cars and trucks before but this is the hardest i ever messed with.Now for the intake cam.