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Help! Trying to sync 2 barrel Carbs

  • Thread starter Thread starter Brianjonesphoto
  • Start date Start date
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Brianjonesphoto

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I've got a 83 gs550e with those damn 2 barrel carbs. I need some help. I tried syncing them today and I think I got it right. The floats were level at a medium idle, but If I take it up to 3000rpm the are very out of balance. Is this right?

Second, I think the idle setting need to be tweeked on them. The bike will hold a steady idle until it gets hot(running for 15-20 minutes not moving with a fan) then it doesn't want to hold an idle it will drop to under 1000 rpm and slowly die. And it won't start up again for a while. I assume this is a sign of over heating. It's very possible that I could be in a situation like this in traffic and I don't want the bike always overheating on me.

I don't know how to make any adjustments of these carbs as all the adjustment screws are blocked off. Can I make any adjustments? Is there something I'm missing? The idle adjuster is 3 turns for completely in. Should I have more adjustment range than that?

I hope someone can point me in the right direction.

Thanks
 
I should add the list of work recently done
New O-rings
Valve adjustment
Carb Clean
Spark looks ok in all 4 cylinders, but the coilstest a little low on resistance
New Plugs
New Battery with a full charge.
Stator/Regualtor needs some work but it does put out 12.5-13v at idle
 
Brianjonesphoto said:
I should add the list of work recently done
New O-rings
Valve adjustment
Carb Clean
Spark looks ok in all 4 cylinders, but the coilstest a little low on resistance
New Plugs
New Battery with a full charge.
Stator/Regualtor needs some work but it does put out 12.5-13v at idle
Click to expand...

r/r check out ok? Sounds like it could be electrical.Possibly coils but I will let the elec. guru's field this one.
 
I have the same bike as you and will help you out as much as I can. First thing I did was remove the carbs and clean them, really really well, pull the jets out and get into the small orfices with pipe cleaners, brass wires and compressed air, then when you are done that clean them again just to make sure you got everything. Now once they are clean re assemble them on the carb rack ( the rod that holds them togeather)


This is ghetto but will help you get them really close before they even go on the bike.


You will need a dial indicator and some way to mount the dial indicator so you cna get a good reading.

Turn the carbs so the butterflys are facing up, now there is a screw with a locknut on one of the carbs, undo the locknut and then back off screw so there is no contact with the other carb rod. now put your dial indicator on a butterfly on the carb that is affected when you turn that adjusting screw, just turn that screw untill the dial indicator just starts to move, back off a little bit and then try to get it so the needle only moves about .001 and then set the locknut.

Put the carbs back on and then fine tune iwth a vacume gauge, Motion pro makes a nice one and I use it all of the time
 
Thanks Orange. I've done pretty close to what you suggested. The carb have been stripped and dipped. and I've done a bench sync with the smallest feeler guage I have. I'm now at the fine tuning stage I think. Any comment about the poor idle when hot? Is it just over heating or is there some other issue?

Thanks
 
Brianjonesphoto said:
I've got a 83 gs550e with those damn 2 barrel carbs. I need some help. I tried syncing them today and I think I got it right. The floats were level at a medium idle, but If I take it up to 3000rpm the are very out of balance. Is this right?

Second, I think the idle setting need to be tweeked on them. The bike will hold a steady idle until it gets hot(running for 15-20 minutes not moving with a fan) then it doesn't want to hold an idle it will drop to under 1000 rpm and slowly die. And it won't start up again for a while. I assume this is a sign of over heating. It's very possible that I could be in a situation like this in traffic and I don't want the bike always overheating on me.

I don't know how to make any adjustments of these carbs as all the adjustment screws are blocked off. Can I make any adjustments? Is there something I'm missing? The idle adjuster is 3 turns for completely in. Should I have more adjustment range than that?

I hope someone can point me in the right direction.

Thanks
Click to expand...

When your engine starts to slowly die do you smell real strong eye burning exhaust gasses? If so, your engine is flooding out. Pull your plugs after your engine dies, this will tell you whats happening. If your plugs are wet, your flooding, if the plugs are dry and whiteish, your overheating. Try richening up the fuel screws 1/4 turn. This will let your engine idle richer, which also means cooler.
 
Road_Clam said:
Try richening up the fuel screws 1/4 turn. This will let your engine idle richer, which also means cooler.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm trying to figure out. There are no adjustment screw visable on this carb. How do I remove the plug so I can get to the screws. Then which screws are the idle adjustment?

Thanks
 
the idle adjust is a large knob between the carbs nearer to the left(when sitting on the seat)...

the fuel air mix screws may be covered as they are from the factory. There are two per carb and on the front on on either side of where the choke cable screws in.
 
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