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Help Valve clearence?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Marine36
  • Start date Start date
Thanks

Thanks

Thanks for answering my question:). I thought I'd ask because I have an '81 CB650 basket-case and have been needing to check the crankshaft journals to order bearings.
 
A micrometer that reads down to .0001" is necessary to properly measure a crank. Calipers are useless for a task like that.
 
I did it. I got the zip tie method to work and inventoried my shims.
I got the spread sheet from Mr. Steve. However, the method for measuring valve clearance on BASSCLIFF's web site differs from my Clymer Manual.

I would guess that BASSCLIFF is basing his info on a Suzuki manual. Will someone please confirm.
 
Nessism said:
A micrometer that reads down to .0001" is necessary to properly measure a crank. Calipers are useless for a task like that.
Click to expand...

Thank you. And once I get that done and the Honduh back together, if that happens sometime before I expire, I'll do the required penance. :pray:

C.
 
Marine36 said:
I would guess that BASSCLIFF is basing his info on a Suzuki manual. Will someone please confirm.
Click to expand...

Hi Mr. Marine36,

Yes, my guide describes the "Suzuki method". :rolleyes:

I also have that same 850-1100 Clymer manual for my bike. I usually refer to both for perspective but tend to favor the Suzuki Shop manual.

For this particular procedure the Suzuki method will "unload" the cam on that side of the motor, giving more accurate measurements (take two measurements at the same time). Using the other method (taking one measurement at a time) it seems that as you point each lobe up, the other lobe on that side starts pressing on the shim/bucket/valve assembly, possibly affecting the measurements.

I'd also like to hear from those who've done a lot more valve checks than I.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I am having a problem with intake valves 3 and 4. Originally I was unable to get my smallest feeler guage (.0015 in.) between the lobe and shim. The original shim was 2.70 for both. I installed 2.65 shims. Using the Suzuki method for testing clearance I still cannot insert my smallest feeler guage into the space between the lobe and shim. Using Clymers method I can get a .002 in feeler in #3 but still no luck with #4. I believe this has to do with the load on the camshaft. I want to try 2.60 x shims but cannot find any.

All other valves have .002 to .003in clearance using the Suzuki method as described by BASSCLIFF.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
 
Hi Marine36. I will be doing my valves soon, and was wondering where you are getting your shims from? (other than the dealer of course:0)
 
Z1 Enterprises is the defacto standard place to get shims. Of course, there is the Valve Shim Club here at GSR:) Search out Ghost and drop him a PM for details.

Sometimes it takes a few revolutions of the engine to get the shim to sit down all the way. Also, sometimes you can get strange measurements so don't be afraid to go down one more shim size and measure to verify...hopefully you have a few extras laying around.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Drove an hour today to get the shims I thought I needed from a dealer ($5.25) a piece. Said he would trade but to far away.
 
Hi,

The first time I performed a valve check on my bike, five of the eight valves were under spec. I had to go down two sizes on a couple of them.

Be sure to oil the shims good before you insert them then spin the motor a few times to get them settled in properly before you measure again.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Thank you all for your advise.Got to say, without you folks I really don't know what I would do (other than freak out, waste the wohle day reaserching and do the job several times

YOU ROCK!!!!
 
I have to admit: I loved the plastic tie method!!! I took them all out today to check for their thikness. My exhaust 1 &2 were 2.60. 3&4 were 2.55
The intakes 1,2,&4 were 2.70. #3 however did not have a number and was all scratched up in the back (I took a good look at the lobe, and it was fine)

What would be the best way to contact Mr. Ghost, should I PM him or add a comment in the shim club thread???

Thanks
 
Last edited:
I remember reading somewhere that the cam to shim clearance actually increases at normal operating temperature. This makes sense due to the head material expanding at a greater rate than the ferrous components.
 
cruz del sur said:
... #3 however did not have a number and was all scratched up in the back (I took a good look at the lobe, and it was fine)
Click to expand...
This is one reason you need a digital caliper.


cruz del sur said:
What would be the best way to contact Mr. Ghost, should I PM him or add a comment in the shim club thread???
Click to expand...
Not trying to take anything away from Ghost's shim club, but I would like to suggest that you build a small inventory of shims that you can keep on hand. Most of your shims are close to the same size, so as you replace your thinner ones, the ones that come out will be replacing the larger ones. It would be nice to already have some shims on hand to do that.

.
 
You are right Steve. I was thinking about that today, and decided to go seek some. Actually I will go ask the shop that sold me the bike, and since they decided to down-grade their shop ( only work on european bikes:)) and now he might have some left over. If not I will go to the dealer and get some.

By the way, the speradsheet that you sent me is way cool. Thank you so much!

Nico
 
Call the dealer first to see how much they will charge for shims. Usually about $10-12 for new shims.
They are available from Z1 for about $5.25.

.
 
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