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HELP with big end and main bearings gs 750 82 model (GSX750 Australian) 82 model

  • Thread starter Thread starter david suzuki
  • Start date Start date
D

david suzuki

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does anyone out there have any experience building the TSCC engines on the gs/gsx 750 models. I have a problem with the bigend and main bearings missing oil holes. My manual tells me to fit big end bearings with oil holes to the upper and lower crankcase, but the parts guide shows differently, also the big end bearing holes do not exist. is this a superceded part? are the oil holes not needed? some one help please????????:cry:
 
david suzuki said:
does anyone out there have any experience building the TSCC engines on the gs/gsx 750 models. I have a problem with the bigend and main bearings missing oil holes. My manual tells me to fit big end bearings with oil holes to the upper and lower crankcase, but the parts guide shows differently, also the big end bearing holes do not exist. is this a superceded part? are the oil holes not needed? some one help please????????:cry:
Click to expand...

Either your manual or your parts guide is wrong. I suspect the former. As far as I know, GS 750 models made in 1982 have roller bearings running in an oil bath - no oil holes required. Maybe your manual is for newer bikes with plain bearings?

Start from the beggining - GS cranks almost never need bearing replacement because they are over-engineered. Why are you replacing them?
 
my engine is a tscc engine with plain bearings, the older 8 valve engines are roller bottom end. Suzuki maintain they have given me the correct part. I just need to know if the hole is not needed anymore or if the hole needs drilling or if i need custom bearings made. My manual cant be wrong because i have the engine apart and i am going off the older bearings in the engine. ideas from anyone who has built a tscc engine recently would be greatly appreciated.

CHEERS
 
GSX750 plain bearings

GSX750 plain bearings

Mate
I run a gsx750 (New Zealand) and the first thing I grabbed when purchased was a clymer manual from my local Suzuk dealer.In there at the back is a section on 1981 and later models and descibes all the bearing shell arrangements for 1981 and later models with engine numbers as a ref .Note Clymer use the GS model classification only but the tscc models in that manual are our GSX models.Also they definitely have a plain shell bearing crank!
Hope this helps
 
sorry everybody, ive soughted out the main bearing problem. the parts guy at suzuki gave me all lower crankase shells..... no upper shells. The other problem i have is the big end shells have no oil hole to line up with the oil gallery in the connecting rod. Suzuki they have superceded that part and that the oil gallery is no longer required. i just wanted to hear from someone else who has built one of these engines that they have had no problems using the superceded part. Ive spent alot of money on this engine and i dont want any problems u know???
 
David, would it be possible for you to take lots of photos and document your rebuild? There are lots of misconceptions about the original TSCC 750 engine and your rebuild would clear a lot of it up. The issue about plain vs. roller bearing is a classic example.

Hap
 
Tscc 750

Tscc 750

Unfortunantly ive gone ahead and assembled the bottom end but ive got all the old bearings and ive still got the cylinder head off the engine. So I can atleast clear up the plain bearing vs. roller bearing idea. And i assure you that the 750 TSCC engine uses plain bearings unfortunantly. Anyways, ill get to work and take a few photo's of my donk and post them on here. Also just one last thing, has anyone out there done much cylinder head reconditioning on these engines??? The service manual says that the valves cannot be lapped in with grinding paste, just wondering about what other people have been doing..... Thanks all
 
I think the main thing to remember is that lapping is good for checking the seat pattern but should not be used to try to adjust it. If the pattern is not good, you're best to have the seat cut properly.
 
Nessism said:
I think the main thing to remember is that lapping is good for checking the seat pattern but should not be used to try to adjust it. If the pattern is not good, you're best to have the seat cut properly.
Click to expand...

I agree with Nessism on this but I would blue the valves instead of using lapping compound.
 
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