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HELP with offset front wheel GS750 1100

  • Thread starter Thread starter rwcfrank
  • Start date Start date
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rwcfrank

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I recently swapped to 82 GS1100 forks on my 78 GS750. Ther swap went well except the front wheel is not centered between the fork legs. I am using the 1100 axle and have tried everything to get it centered. The fork tubes are even, the spacers are correct but I cant get the wheel centered. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? It seems to be off to the right (as seated on bike) by about 3/16-1/4 of an inch. I am lost...
 
rwcfrank said:
I recently swapped to 82 GS1100 forks on my 78 GS750. Ther swap went well except the front wheel is not centered between the fork legs. I am using the 1100 axle and have tried everything to get it centered. The fork tubes are even, the spacers are correct but I cant get the wheel centered. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? It seems to be off to the right (as seated on bike) by about 3/16-1/4 of an inch. I am lost...
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Loosen everything on the front end and then tighten from the bottom up. Many here have had this problem including me!
 
Also, are you using all the GS1100 spacers? Are they leading forks or axle-under forks?
 
Which spacers are you using?? The "top hat" spacers are not the same length model to model...you probably need to use the 1100 spacers as the forks and offset were different obviously. Is this a wire or cast wheel?
 
All 1100 parts with oem star 750 wheels. 1100 axle and spacer with 750 wheel and speedo drive.
 
rwcfrank said:
All 1100 parts with oem star 750 wheels. 1100 axle and spacer with 750 wheel and speedo drive.
Click to expand...

Do you have and have you compared the top hat spacer from the two to see if one is longer? I recently put a set of 77-79 750 forks on a 650G and ran into this same issue. Used the longer top hat and it centered up as it should. Obviously depending on which way the wheel is out of center, you'll need to choose the one that works. Or you may find you have to make a new one up altogether.
Make sure not only that the wheel looks centered but that the rotors are fairly centered up as well inside the caliper. I dunno that the front star rims changed hub width, but the later shaft drives used a wider rim. Dunno if you're using 1100G or E forks but this could be some cause for the issue. Don't think they changed the drive housing size,(width) so that should be a constant between the two...all things being equal the top hat spacer seems to be the one thing I see changed, possibly the hub width, and if that's the case you may still have problems getting it to center up and may have to add some washers or something out board of the speedo drive..
 
Thanks for all the tips guys, its late now but I will try all of the suggestions first thing in the morning. I will report back what I find.
 
Suggest you post a picture that shows the order and alignment of your spacers on the axle. This might help others diagnose your problem.

Even when I am careful, this gives me trouble on my 1100e - as in last weekend when I painted my new brake discs. Next time I take it apart, I will carefully note everything and WRITE IT DOWN for future reference.

Finally.... I once mounted a front tire on my Busa backwards. Being lazy, I just flipped the wheel over, but could not get it to turn without some binding. Careful inspection showed that there was some very small offset in the wheel, so I was forced to remount the tire. Just mentioning this in case you've mounted the wheel reversed.
 
Alright, well it seems that lossening the entire front end was the ticket to getting the wheel centered, thanks for the help. Got my SV 650 calipers mounted to bite the 1150 rotors and layed the rear shocks down a few degrees. She is coming along and as soon as the rear Katana caliper bracket is here I can finish the rear brake upgrade.
 
Here is a shot of the rear shock mod, it helped me raise the rear a bit and still use the Progressive shocks I had lying around. Now I have to order softer springs.
 
rwcfrank said:
Alright, well it seems that lossening the entire front end was the ticket to getting the wheel centered, thanks for the help. Got my SV 650 calipers mounted to bite the 1150 rotors and layed the rear shocks down a few degrees. She is coming along and as soon as the rear Katana caliper bracket is here I can finish the rear brake upgrade.
Click to expand...
Hey, that's cool with the new calipers. Is that one of Salty's conversions, or did you do those plates yourself?
 
Ajay, I made them myself, the SV calipers use the top mounting hole and seem to be a very good fit.
 
Are those four pot opposed piston? I was under the impression it was next to impossible to get such a set up to work because of the lack of depth of the GS rim vs rotor offset. Got any more pics of how this is set up? This would be a pretty wicked upgrade to any GS.. The two pot mod gets great reviews, four pots is even better..
 
TheCafeKid said:
Are those four pot opposed piston? I was under the impression it was next to impossible to get such a set up to work because of the lack of depth of the GS rim vs rotor offset. Got any more pics of how this is set up? This would be a pretty wicked upgrade to any GS.. The two pot mod gets great reviews, four pots is even better..
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They look like two pots, at least from the fiche on BikeBandit for the 2003 model.

Hey Frank, those are GS1150 rotors? Didn't know they were floating type. Are the dimensions the same? Diameter, bolt pattern, and offset from the mounting flange?

Agree with CK that this is a very cool mod if you (WHEN you!) pull it off!
 
They are two pots, supposedly from an early Bandit 600. The rotors are from an 1150 and are a direct bolt on. I liked the look of the 1150 rotors better than the slotted rotors due to the fact that they look like old school race rotors from the 70's. PS I went through 4 pot hell with an Yamaha XS650 project and without spacing out rotors most 4 pot calipers hit. The 2 pots will stand the bike on end with the proper master cylinder and they are lighter too.
 
rwcfrank said:
Alright, well it seems that lossening the entire front end was the ticket to getting the wheel centered, thanks for the help. Got my SV 650 calipers mounted to bite the 1150 rotors and layed the rear shocks down a few degrees. She is coming along and as soon as the rear Katana caliper bracket is here I can finish the rear brake upgrade.
Click to expand...

I hope that you can find the matching left rotor some day to finish it off.

Eric
 
it has dual rotors. Funny thing while I was shopping for front rotors I found tons for around $25 shipped when a good set of 1150's appeared for 9.99 and I was the only bidder. I did have to go with a slotted rear rotor but compared to the original its still a huge upgrade.
 
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The left front rotor on your bike is a right front rotor. The slots angle back if it is on the correct side. Clear?

Eric
 
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rwcfrank said:
They are two pots, supposedly from an early Bandit 600. The rotors are from an 1150 and are a direct bolt on. I liked the look of the 1150 rotors better than the slotted rotors due to the fact that they look like old school race rotors from the 70's. PS I went through 4 pot hell with an Yamaha XS650 project and without spacing out rotors most 4 pot calipers hit. The 2 pots will stand the bike on end with the proper master cylinder and they are lighter too.
Click to expand...
Of course, I just bought a set of the 1100 rotors and painted them, but I did get them for only $20 shipped for the pair. :)

The big advantage I can see for those 1150 rotors is they are floating instead of cast/one-piece like the earlier rotors. Not really much of a performance issue, as I will never use this bike as a serious performance machine. (no disrespect meant to either machines or owners by that last sentence)
 
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