Ok the model of the 1983 gs550es which means it has the twin Siamese carbs the carbs are completely spotless inside and out no way possible their dirty.
The dirt that you can see is NOT the dirt that matters.
What matters are all the little passages that are deep inside the carb bodies. It is quite possible that one small speck of crud has somehow found its way in there, and is stuck against a jet. Removing the jet will find a very clean jet, but the crud remains.
Next the carb were pulled completely apart o rings were not replaced because I found none that were bad or cracked or dried out ...
Do you know when (if?) the o-rings had last been changed? An o-ring that
looks perfectly fine might have shrunk down to the point where it is not quite sealing properly. Unless you remove them and measure them, you simply won't know for sure. Cracking and drying out are not the only way they fail. And, ... if you took the carbs all the way down to the point where you could
see the o-rings, why not change them (unless you know that they were changed recently)?
To add one last note to this, you must have removed the o-rings to dip the carbs and parts. You telling us that you put the old o-rings back on? Or are you saying that you did not remove them when you dipped them? Sorry, but either situation is a HUGE red flag.
... the carbs are synced but their not vacuum synced yet
That should at least get the bike running.
Looking back at your first post, along with subsequent replies, it appears that you have a wild mix of jetting going on. It appears that your bike is an '83 550.
- Stock pilot jet is 35, you now have a 40. There should be no need to change from a stock pilot jet.
- The main jets are DJ118, which is the same as a Mikuni 110. That is three sizes up for your center cylinders and six sizes for your outer ones. For just adding a header, that should be plenty, maybe a size too rich, but that won't affect your idling performance.
- Your needle clips are in the second groove. Your bike might be different (I have never installed a DJ kit on a 550), all the DJ instructions I have seen say to have the clip in the third groove.
- Your mixture screws are one turn out. That is even leaner than stock, but with your oversize pilot jet, it might be correct. Even though it might compensate while at idle, there are other ports that open up just as soon as you start to open the throttle (I call them "transition" ports). With your oversize pilot jet, they will greatly richen the mixture just as soon as you move the trottle above idle.
Your idle jetting might be perfect. (oversize pilot jet, compensated by small mixture screw opening)
Your transition jetting might be rich. (oversize pilot jet)
Your needle jetting might be lean. (needles set too low)
Your main jetting might be rich. (main jets too large)
Rather than starting with an imbalance and trying to compensate, try setting things back to stock, except for the things you KNOW you need to have different. Go back to the stock 35 pilot jets. Double-check the needle clip setting. Turn the mixture screws out three turns. Double-check your float height (make sure you are measuring at the correct part of the float).
After all of this, it should run. Let it warm up a bit, do a vacuum sync to make sure that is not causing any problems, run the bike a bit more to fully warm it up, then do some "plug chops" to read the color of the plugs. No, you don't have to get out the Dremel and chop up your plugs, you merely hold the throttle at specific openings to check the different circuits in the carbs, run the bike long enough at that opening to color the plugs, then "chop" the throttle, pull the clutch lever, hit the "kill" switch and coast to a safe place where you can remove the plugs to inspect them.
.
Easy to disconnect them also.Not saying your clock mi are not accurate though.Please post pic of your machine when time allows,thanks.
