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08rangerdan
Guest
i found something that may work.. But its questionable.. Best i can do for $3
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08rangerdan
Guest
Thanks to a fellow member of the forum i will be getting the actual Suzuki seal for the cam chain tensioner! I also found the o ring for the oil pressure switch cover... So. All is great!
As parts begin to pile up on my dining room table my hands have gotten back to work on the motor..
-stainless hardware for the engine side covers and carb covers and bowls.
- all gaskets for the covers and serviced areas
-some o rings have arrived.. Ive managed to finish up sealing the secondary side gear (bearing hub) and replaced one o ring on the tensioner
Secondary gear o ring install...
I dont have alot of experience dealing with oring seals within a bore.. When i got this oring i was sure it must have been the wrong part! There was plenty of float between the rubber and its groove and trying to seat it into the bore without pinching the oring prooved to be challenging..
If anyone does go to the hassle to replace this rubber, my method was to get the hub and bore fully de burred and clean. Coat all surfaces with a coat of oil and begin easing it back straight into the bore.. Dont fight it! It should go it smoothly. But it is difficult to get it straight. Once started, pull the shims to the back face and slip the o ring over and into the groove. Give it a couple minutes to un stretch.. Slighty lift the extra rubber slack to the top. seating the bottom and sides of the ring and move the hub into the bore so that the ring just slightly starts under the taper, (this will keep the ring in place while you seat the top). While holding the hub in just enough begin working the rest of the ring into the groove with a blunt pick .. When it looks to be under the taper and in the groove, twist inwards making sure the ring doesnt pop out and get pinched. Once in past the ring and seated i had to run an 8mm tap to clear the old loctite in the threads then installed the cleaned hardware with New loctite. Be sure there is no burrs on any of the shims or components. the mesh of those gears depends on no interfearance
Side gear o ring
Finished install
As parts begin to pile up on my dining room table my hands have gotten back to work on the motor..
-stainless hardware for the engine side covers and carb covers and bowls.
- all gaskets for the covers and serviced areas
-some o rings have arrived.. Ive managed to finish up sealing the secondary side gear (bearing hub) and replaced one o ring on the tensioner
Secondary gear o ring install...
I dont have alot of experience dealing with oring seals within a bore.. When i got this oring i was sure it must have been the wrong part! There was plenty of float between the rubber and its groove and trying to seat it into the bore without pinching the oring prooved to be challenging..
If anyone does go to the hassle to replace this rubber, my method was to get the hub and bore fully de burred and clean. Coat all surfaces with a coat of oil and begin easing it back straight into the bore.. Dont fight it! It should go it smoothly. But it is difficult to get it straight. Once started, pull the shims to the back face and slip the o ring over and into the groove. Give it a couple minutes to un stretch.. Slighty lift the extra rubber slack to the top. seating the bottom and sides of the ring and move the hub into the bore so that the ring just slightly starts under the taper, (this will keep the ring in place while you seat the top). While holding the hub in just enough begin working the rest of the ring into the groove with a blunt pick .. When it looks to be under the taper and in the groove, twist inwards making sure the ring doesnt pop out and get pinched. Once in past the ring and seated i had to run an 8mm tap to clear the old loctite in the threads then installed the cleaned hardware with New loctite. Be sure there is no burrs on any of the shims or components. the mesh of those gears depends on no interfearance
Side gear o ring
Finished install
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08rangerdan
Guest
Im going to start on the cam chain tensioner hassles..
Using the log created here http://www.bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html i dissasembled and began aquiring the required components
Unit removed as described, rod and spring pinched with side bolt
Dinged up o ring on lock bolt replaced
Cleaned up push rod taper with emery paper to remove wear mark from bearing
Before
After
Im working on getting the seal but i was having a rather hard time finding it locally or ebay. A member here offered to pick one up and send it off to me. The one i removed was undersized in every way.. It looks to have shrunk some and became very hard plastic. Its seal lip doesnt even contact the sealing surface and the seal also falls right out of its bore! Correct numbers on the old seal AGO241F.. Just awaiting the New part now
Using the log created here http://www.bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html i dissasembled and began aquiring the required components
Unit removed as described, rod and spring pinched with side bolt
Dinged up o ring on lock bolt replaced
Cleaned up push rod taper with emery paper to remove wear mark from bearing
Before
After
Im working on getting the seal but i was having a rather hard time finding it locally or ebay. A member here offered to pick one up and send it off to me. The one i removed was undersized in every way.. It looks to have shrunk some and became very hard plastic. Its seal lip doesnt even contact the sealing surface and the seal also falls right out of its bore! Correct numbers on the old seal AGO241F.. Just awaiting the New part now
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08rangerdan
Guest
I officially hate polishing.. It never ends. Some of these covers were so badly pitted and scratched. Spent hours just sanding smooth and could spend hours more to perfection ..
Super fine.. Starting to pop
Super fine.. Starting to pop
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harley10
Guest
Those covers look great WOW , nice
G
GateKeeper
Guest
But it will be so worth it in the end.......
I spent hours on all of my bits and pieces and I love the bike and how it all turned out.....
Just keep at it....
.
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08rangerdan
Guest
Tensioner is completed and mounted. Seal arrived!
Valve cover mounted
Paint is ordered and will be next on my list. I went with eastwoods universal aluminum engine enamel and their reccomended activator.. Roughly cost about $60 for the paint and hardener
Valve cover mounted
Paint is ordered and will be next on my list. I went with eastwoods universal aluminum engine enamel and their reccomended activator.. Roughly cost about $60 for the paint and hardener
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nuitdevotremort
Guest
Lookin' good. Can't wait to see the polished covers on it.
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08rangerdan
Guest
I just received the paint for the motor. Im also wrapping up some last minute things i forgot about.. like the tach drive seals. Should be here this week so ive gotta get back to my covers! Once this last seal comes through the paint goes on
Did you grease these gaskets?
It will save you a bunch of hours scraping at valve adjustment time.
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08rangerdan
Guest
They are dry. I thought about greasing it but having extra contaminants will cause me issues with the paint
As for polishing i started with 1000grit and finished with 2000. Then went to my most abrasive compound and then went to my finest. I need another wheel to finish, ive contaminated my first so bad i cant get the haze all out for my finest cut compound.. I should have picked up a couple.. One for abrasives and one for finishing
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08rangerdan
Guest
Completed
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08rangerdan
Guest
Heres the new paint
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08rangerdan
Guest
Flash works now..
G
Guest
Guest
Paint looks awesome and those polished covers are just plain outstanding! How Many miles did she have when you got her?
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08rangerdan
Guest
About 76000mi..i rode it for a week before i gutted it. Had a great sound and ran strong. Last investment i wanted to do was pull the jugs but i think i have myself a good one. No burnt oil or smoke either.. Im hoping for a good lengthy run with it after its completed
G
Guest
Guest
Wow, someone got some good use out of her. Don't forget to go through the braking system. After all those years and that many miles, even though they may "work", I would not trust them.
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08rangerdan
Guest
For a 30 year machine in surprised it has so few miles haha. I think its got some years to go.
Oh ya no doubt, It Will be pretty much new when its done.. No shortcuts here. Has a leaky caliper up front but its a resolvable problem
Oh ya no doubt, It Will be pretty much new when its done.. No shortcuts here. Has a leaky caliper up front but its a resolvable problem
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