• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Hesitant acceleration after carb cleaning

  • Thread starter Thread starter ShirleySerious
  • Start date Start date
I'm gonna take a look at the fuel supply to see if anything's wrong, because that's what I think could be it. But if it is the jets, do I adjust the stock jets or do I get new ones? Do the new ones come in different sizes?

UPDATE: I finally managed to get the tank off. It really isn't as bad as it seems, just heavy with gas. But I went and got new gas lines. The old ones were rotting and had a crappy fuel filter attached. I took them off and cut a new piece of hose without putting a fuel filter on, per Keith's advice. I started it up and let it warm up for a few minutes. I'm still having the problem, so I know it can't be the fuel line or fuel starvation. Fuel and vacuum lines are in good shape and securely fastened.

The carbs will have to wait until the Clymer comes. Any advice till then? If I need new jets, what kind should I get and are there any special tools I need?
 
Last edited:
Sorry the duct tape thing did not work, it was worth a try.
BTW, if the carbs were cleaned, why do they look so dirty on the outside. Mine are nice and clean. Just wondering what they did to clean them.
 
They apparently just cleaned the insides, plus I've taken it out on the roads since then, so it's gotten a chance to get dirty. As for what they did, I couldn't tell ya.
 
OK. Problem here is you'd rather not work on the bike. Your experience limits you in knowing how to test also. We have to trust that the mechanic at least timed it right and the points are sparking/gapped correctly. If it revs freely in neutral, I'd assume the electrical is operating well enough. Normally, I'd ask you to double check the timing and dwell but I realize you don't know how at this time or have the tools. To try to simplify/narrow it down, I'll assume the electrical is OK.
I'm trying to make 100% sure it's the carbs and I want to eliminate easier to check/service parts before taking them apart again.
As for venting, the 2 float bowl vent ports should be open and removing the vent lines is correct for pods. I would think they are truly open if the carbs were just serviced. But to be sure, attach a snug fitting line on each one and blow into it. There is some resistance, but you'll be able to blow into them and tell if they're clear. A blocked vent will cause fuel starvation. If clear, let's move on.
As for fuel flow, you now have a new fuel line and a new vacuum line to carb #3. Only other possible fuel flow problem would be the petcock.
To check for possible poor flow/dirty petcock, many people can just take off one end of the fuel line, turn the petcock to prime and they know what an adequate flow looks like. You wouldn't know for sure.
I'd like you to do it though and describe what the fuel flow looks like. With the lever centered at prime, how long does it take to drain, say, 3 oz? Do you see any particles in the flow? Is the tank clean inside? I'm trying to tell if your petcock is partially clogged. You do have plenty of gas? Never test a bike when the fuel level is low enough to be near the reserve level, it can add to confusion. Best way to check the petcock screen and passages is to take it apart of course. The petcock is easier to service than the carbs.
If all the above checks out OK, then we can be reasonably sure it's the carbs. You didn't answer my question last time...did the problem start after the carbs were serviced??
 
I'm willing to work on the bike, but only if I know what I'm doing ahead of time. This is why I'm waiting for my Clymer manual.

To answer your question, no, the carbs didn't have this kind of problem before they were serviced.

I'm sure the timing is not a problem, as they checked that too, and the bike runs fine in neutral. I have plenty of gas in the tank, and will try to do what you're describing tomorrow.
 
OK. I'll try to check in tomorrow night to see where you're at.
I'm sure others are willing to walk you through this too if you ask.
Basically, you'll need to clean and inspect. Check float levels, check for worn parts, missing parts, incorrect jetting. I'd suggest Robert Barrs o-ring kit but I don't want to complicate your life. New manifold o-rings would be nice too. Excuse me, I just can't help thinking of doing a thorough job.
Most likely, you will need to re-jet. I can help you there. I can't say the jetting will be guessed right the first time, but I do have quite a bit of experience with the 550/750/1000 models. Pods and stock/somewhat modified exhausts can be difficult. My goal would be to guess the jet needle positions right the first time since they're easily the most work. Any further main and pilot jet changes are relatively simple. You will need to test though and check plug reads. A vacuum synch is part of the re-jetting. We'll deal with that when needed.
I want you to learn the carb work yourself. But if after trying, this thing results in frustration, I'll do the rebuild and/or re-jetting if you ship them to me. I'd ask for the o-ring kit and fresh gaskets to do my typical job on them. It appears all the screws are free so that's good. I assume the carbs are able to be taken apart (no stripped harware, etc). Jets or anything else needed would be determined and sent to me. Only thing you'd need (for a perfect job) when you get them back is a vacuum synch. If the jetting did need further adjusting, we'd deal with that later.
Just wanted to give you that option. The labor cost would be just a little dinner for me and the wife. That way she couldn't get mad if I was "out in the garage again".
 
Sounds like a lot of work for something that I was previously told would be relatively simple. I don't know, I just feel weird about shipping my carbs across the country and back. Like I said, I'll try to see how the fuel flows in a bit. If it does, then it'll probably just need new jets. I need them anyway, since I'm running pretty lean. I thought the pilot jet was the only one that had a setting on it, and that the main jet just screwed in and only had one setting, or do I not know what I'm talking about?

UPDATE: I checked the fuel flow and it looks pretty normal for standard atmospheric pressure. I'm assuming it flows faster with a vacuum when it's attached to the carbs. So I'm gonna pick up some main jets and a side air screw today and just keep them until the Clymer comes. I wanna see if I can tackle this myself.
 
Last edited:
Got another update.

Today I went to the dealer on my break and got some main jets and needle jet o-rings. I wanted to see if I could finally do the work. Got home and spent a few hours trying to get the carbs off and replace the jets. The hardest parts for me were taking off the throttle cable, which was a real PITA and just the repetitiveness of doing the same thing 4 times. Got the float bowls unscrewed, and it looks like the mechanic put new gaskets on. Got the new main jets put in, which were #85's BTW. I put everything back together and started her up.

I'm surprised that I, with very little knowledge of a procedure like this, could take the carbs apart and put them back together and have the bike manage to start. I had to prime the bowls and use the choke, but I got it going. Since I fiddled with the idle adjustment screw when I was taking the carbs off, it had a little trouble staying on at first, but once it warmed up a little, I got the idle going. Now one of the side air screws is busted, so I have to wait until the shop gets one in so I can try Keith's highest RPM method.

Thanks for all the help, and once I get the screw hopefully it'll be warmer so I can see how it rides.
 
Too bad about the side air screw. I thought the shop played with those, or at least you said they were all seated? Seems like they should have been loose enough to avoid stripping a head? Maybe they did that too?
I didn't know you were going out to buy mains yet. You didn't give me a chance to suggest some jetting.
85's won't be rich enough. Something closer to 95-100 probably.
Jet needle position will have to be richened. I'd try placing the e-clip in position 4 from the top and test. Be sure all jet needle spacers go back in factory order. Removing the slides to adjust the needles is the most work when jetting your VM carbs.
After adjusting the needles, you must at least bench synch carefully. If at all possible, vacuum synch.
I think the stock 15 pilot jet will work if you just richen the pilot fuel screw settings. I don't know where they were stock, but I'd try about 1 1/4 turns out from lightly seated and test.
Make sure the float levels are correct while you have things apart.
When testing/getting plug reads, full throttle for the mains, 1/3 for the needles, minimal throttle for the pilot circuit.
 
ShirleySerious said:
I thought the pilot jet was the only one that had a setting on it, and that the main jet just screwed in and only had one setting, or do I not know what I'm talking about?
Click to expand...
The term "setting" has nothing to do with the pilot jet. The pilot jet screws into the carb body. The larger the number, the larger the jet. I see no reason to change it at this time.
The main jet also screws in. It screws into the needle jet/bleed pipe. The term "setting" isn't used with the main jet either.
Just saying this because incorrect terminology leads to confusion.
 
I got impatient so I decided to try it out on my own. I found the instructions on this very site (not in the forums). I don't have the time, knowledge or patience to go through all that rigamarole. I barely know what I'm doing as it is. The side air screw's head was stripped from the start, so I decided to replace it. It should be in on Monday. It's gonna be somewhat rideable weather soon, and I don't want to miss it.

As for the main jet, the guy at the shop (a different shop) said I should go with an 85. I mean, the bike ran fine before. Two sizes up and a little tinkering and it should be just like when I got it in July. Besides, I already paid for the main jets and busted my ass taking the carbs apart. It's not gonna happen unless it's 100% necessary.
 
ShirleySerious said:
I got impatient so I decided to try it out on my own. I found the instructions on this very site (not in the forums). I don't have the time, knowledge or patience to go through all that rigamarole. I barely know what I'm doing as it is.

As for the main jet, the guy at the shop (a different shop) said I should go with an 85. I mean, the bike ran fine before. Two sizes up and a little tinkering and it should be just like when I got it in July. Besides, I already paid for the main jets and busted my ass taking the carbs apart. It's not gonna happen unless it's 100% necessary.
Click to expand...
It's not "rigarmarole" to jet and tune your bike right.
I realized from the start you were new at this, but I'm not going to downgrade my advice over it. I simply told you what needs to be done to make the bike run right, with necessary but minimal work.
Pod filters will lean out the bike quite a bit and that can damage the motor. An 85 main jet and no other changes won't help much. This "put a bigger main in it and it's done" garbage shouldn't come from the mouth of any mechanic. Inexperienced owners yes, not a mechanic.
I thought you wanted advice but I guess not.
 
Well first off, the bike's not going anywhere until Monday (which is when the screws should be in.) I will try to set it right, and use that RPM method, but I don't think it needs that much work. I mean, it idles fine, so I don't need a new pilot jet.

I guess it's all these terms being thrown around here like bench sync, vacuum sync, e-clip, and my favorite, jet needle and needle jet. If that isn't confusing I don't know what is. I mean, you can explain what do to and what these are all you want, but once I actually get to take the parts off the bike, it's all wait where is that? I'm sure the carb rebuild page was done thoroughly, but those are different carbs than the ones I have, leading to the confusion.

I usually just go for what works for me. For example, car experts have long said that when you jump start a car, you put the positive clamp on the positive terminal of the dead car, and the negative clamp goes on an unpainted piece of grounded metal instead of the negative terminal. Yet the right way has never worked for me, and it's always worked when I clamp it to the negative terminal, despite what the experts say. See where I'm coming from?
 
Yep...just keep in mind, that you're talking to some people here on the GS fourm, that " KNOW WHAT THEY'RE TALKING ABOUT" and that all they're trying to do is problem solve, based on the information that you are providing for them. These bikes can be tricky, I've wrenched on just about anything that moves under petro power, and have the place and tools to do so, and when I got my GS, had it not been for the good folks here, it may have still been taking up space " full of bullet holes ".

With a little effort and some patience, your bike will run very well, in all situations. Just a heads up... :?
 
ShirleySerious said:
I guess it's all these terms being thrown around here like bench sync, vacuum sync, e-clip, and my favorite, jet needle and needle jet. If that isn't confusing I don't know what is. I mean, you can explain what do to and what these are all you want, but once I actually get to take the parts off the bike, it's all wait where is that? I'm sure the carb rebuild page was done thoroughly, but those are different carbs than the ones I have, leading to the confusion.

I usually just go for what works for me. For example, car experts have long said that when you jump start a car, you put the positive clamp on the positive terminal of the dead car, and the negative clamp goes on an unpainted piece of grounded metal instead of the negative terminal. Yet the right way has never worked for me, and it's always worked when I clamp it to the negative terminal, despite what the experts say. See where I'm coming from?
Click to expand...

Josh,

I was exactly where you are about 10 years ago. I was bewildered. It took long hours studying manuals, lots of trial-and-error and purchasing hundreds of dollars worth of tools. And, of course, the great advice on this site (simply reading other posts has helped tremendously).
The result: I've restored at least 5 non-running bikes to good daily runners since then (not to mention several others I've tinkered with).
That initial investment of time and money has paid for itself many times over (I've sold several bikes on eBay and locally) and I've found a great hobby that's a lot more fulfilling than sitting in front of the tube.

Don't be discouraged. Invest the time and you will begin to see results - much like any other endeavor.

Good luck.
 
Wow, it's been a little while.

Today I took the bike out to take in the nice weather. I had to remove one of the side air screws because the head was busted, so I went to a dealer near me who happened to have some spares from various bikes. The one I found was almost exactly like the stock one, but it's about 1-2 mm shorter. He let me have it for free. This is only a temporary fix until I get mine in at the other shop on Monday.

Got back and warmed the bike up, but it was running a little rough on the idle, probably because the idle adjuster was at a different setting because I took the carbs off. After a little tinkering, I got it to run, albeit at a higher (1900 rpm) idle.

When I took it on the road at first, I thought the problem I was previously having was gone. It revved past 3000 rpm in every gear without hesitation. Only after I rode it for a little while did I start to have the same problem pop up, but not as bad as before.

I spent the rest of the night taking apart my carbs, doing a more complete job than last time, thanks to the Clymer manual. I set the e-clip on the jet needle 1 notch lower. Hopefully that will do something. If not, than bigger main and pilot jets for me. Now all I have to do is sync the carbs, but I'm having a little trouble finding a manometer. Anyone know any places around the Chicago area where I can get one?
 
One more time....

One more time....

I just finished spending 6 months "tinkering" with the carburetors on my 1100 only to finally determine that it was a almost dead ignition coil all along! Almost wore out the bolts and screws on the carbs before I cought on to that one!

You might check that before you give up!

Bruce
 
The factory idle is 1,000 rpm's =/- 50 rpm's. A 1,900 rpm idle will help to overheat the bike at stops, especially in the summer. It's also harder on your brakes, your clutch and transmission.
Raising the jet needles by placing the e-clip in the 4th position from the top of the needle should help greatly. But remember, the jet needles job is to provide fuel from about 1/5 throttle position to 3/4 position. There is some overlap with the other jetting circuits on each end but that's the basic throttle positions that will be effected by that change. If you still have warm up problems, lower speed problems such as just putting around town, then that means the pilot circuit needs tinkering with. If you have problems above 3/4 throttle, then the main jets need tinkering.
 
I set the e-clip to the bottom position because I thought the lowest=richest. When I found it, it was on the second to the bottom. I'll see what happens when I ride it today, but that should help I hope.

UPDATE: I took it out for a spin, and my efforts from last night look like they worked. Bike runs fine. Idle is at ~1100 RPM, and when I open up the throttle, little to no hesitation. I took it easy for a few miles then tried full throttle. That seems to be the trick. To celebrate, I'm going on a little road trip.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top