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Hey, bbytes, where's the video?

Steve

GS Whisperer
Remember this? :-k
And, if you can actually build one that works and works WELL for $2, please share with us, we would all like to build one, too.

Hey, let's go extravagant, feel free to spend up to $10.

I will go a step farther. Build a manometer that works for a four-cylinder bike for $10 or less, document your build, show receipts and a video of it working, I will pay you every bit of that $10. :o

I will repeat my offer above. Shall we also set a reasonable time limit? How about the end of August?

Show me video of a working four-cylinder manometer that you have built for $10 or less, and I will reimburse you for every penny you spent. And you get to keep your manometer.

Challenge accepted. If I build one that doesn't work, then I'm only out a few dollars, and can go buy the $100 one later.
If I do build one that works, then I have a super cheap manometer. So yeah, I'll build a working one.

icon_thumbsup.gif

Only 23 1/2 hours to go. :-\\\

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He has another hour and a half to claim his $10, but he has not signed in since 8-13-2012.
icon_shrug.gif


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I have one in the garage I made for less than $10, tubing from tractor supply, $4+, a 5' 1x6 board I had laying around and some atf, works fine for me.
That's nice, but the challenge was for bbytes to show a video of one that he created.

September 2 is almost over, which is almost 48 hours after the deadline. I have not heard from him, my money is safe. :D

Old_skool, you by chance have a parts list and/or a video of yours in action? :-k

Sorry, there is no money involved here, just curious what you might have rigged and how well it works.

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... well, also, if you accidentally suck ATF in the intake, it's not going to cause any real problems like mercury might.
A valid point, but the height of my mercury gauge is such that it would take a PERFECT vacuum (unobtainable in the real world) to get the mercury sucked into the engine. I have never even gotten close to that level while using it on a bike.


Does 2 banks at a time, 1/2, then 3/4, then left to right.
A few points here:
First, that is not the recommended order or procedure.
Second, any time I have seen setups that would balance two carbs, there was a lot of "tail chasing" involved, meaning it took a LOT longer to finally get everything settled.
Third, once you see all four vacuum levels at the same time, you will realize how much one adjustment really affects all four carbs.


The trick is not to worry if one side climbs up higher than the other while adjusting, just to get it to stop and balance between the 2.
Are you saying that the carbs could be "balanced", even though the level of the fluid might not be the same on both sides?


You can also tell if you have a bad seal or holes in your diaphragm while doing this, it cause the fluid to bounce erratically as the slides aren't operating smoothly, sure enough, I had pinholes in mine(XS11) and had to take care of that first, afterwards, nice and smooth.
Not sure how pinholes in a diaphragm would show up as erratic vacuum readings, the diaphragm and slides are upstream of the throttle plate, which is what is causing the vacuum.

Besides, at the idle speeds used for a carb sync, the slides are going to be closed all the way, there is no way to tell that they might not be operating smoothly.


Sorry, wasn't trying to butt in on another challenge you had, just thought it was query about a diy manometer.
pics tomorrow
You can't "butt in" where you were basically invited, I am looking forward to pictures. Videos, if possible.

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..., I may be doing it on a cb350 here pretty soon, how long depends on if/when I'm re-building his carbs, maybe shoot one then.
Good luck. Does the CB350 have vacuum ports? I just helped Vmass with a CB450, it did not have any ports. There were instructions on a forum showing where to drill to install some, but there was no easy way to synchronize those carbs.

Besides, using your setup on a two-cylinder bike will not be the same as using it on a Four. :o

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I've never used synching tools on a two cylinder bike. The old manuals just instructed you to let the bike run on one cylinder at a time and match rpm on both.
 
I am finding that many of them did not have vacuum ports, so that was the only way to do it.

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