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High Flow Air Filters

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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I have a 1980 GS1100ET with a Stage 1 jet kit a Vance and Hines megaphone header with an origanl Suzuki air filter. I had a problem with spuddering around 5000 rpms and was advised to remove the air filter. The removal of the air filter cleared up the problem but now I am left with no filter. Would a high flow air filter cause the same problem or should it work better. Is there a cheeper way to filter the air rather than spending $50.00? What would be the best applcation?

Second problem is that even though it no longer spudders past 5000 rpms it seams to have lost a little power out of the gate. What could the problem be and how can I correct it.

Greg
 
Sounds to me like you're a bit rich in the needle. Try dropping it half a notch, and see what happens. You should be able to use a stock air filter, the only thing taking it out proves, is that the settings were rich to begin with, so lean it out a little, and put a new filter back in.
 
hey if that doesn't work, just shell out the 50 bucks for the k & n filters, it's not worth your time fight some lesser filter. If you do go with the pods, put in the stage 3 jets and take full advantage of your setup.

ryan
 
If you do go to pod's, you'll be running lean. As mentioned, stage 3 kit.
If you don't want to make changes and just want the bike running right, I would (as mentioned)drop the needle a 1/2 notch. This will lean it out some and hopefully allow you to put the filter (clean) back in. But first, you need to be sure the carbs are clean inside before blaming the jetting or filter.
 
I am going to keep it in the stage 1 set up. I do not want to spend the rest of the summer trying to dial in the stage 3. The carbs have been rebuilt by a pro and they are very clean. I am not exactly sure what you mean when you say drop it a half a notch. Are you talking about the air/fuel mixture screws?

Greg
 
he is talking about the needles in the slides, when you bought your kit they gave you adjustable slide needles and washers, the washers are the half steps. so pull your slides and remove your needle from each carb and remove the little clip on each needle and move it down one step, thats to much so then add the extra washer that came with the kit and that raises the needle one 1/2 step since you moved the needle down one step. oh yeah welcome to the world of carb tinkering (the place you wanted to avoid) it's not really that bad and once you understand how the carbs work and what each part does it's really easy. take a look at your trouble shooting manuel that came with your kit they have a very helpful diagram of who does what at the diffrenct rpm ranges in the carbs.

ryan
 
Hi Greg.
first timer gave you directions to raise the needles (richen), what it sounds like you need is to LOWER the needles (leaner). So just place the jetting spacer on top of each clip and don't move the clips at all. Always write down your jetting info, what you start with and what adjustments you make. Remember, we have no way of knowing just how rich you are running. A description of your sparkplugs color would help. If your plugs are only a little dark, the 1/2 notch adjustment will probably fix you up. If they are darker than that, then I would try a full notch leaner. A full notch adjustment would mean taking your clip out and replacing it 1 notch higher on the needle, no spacer used. Hopefully this will eliminate the 5K studder and the loss of low end power will return when you re-install the stock filter. You sound like you don't really care about more power and you want to save money. So I would not bother with a more expensive filter. The potential power increase from stock filter to a high flow filter would be very small. Pod filters are a whole different story.
With your 4-1 pipe, you may have to increase the main jet size too, if it has'nt been done already.
Even the pilot circuit may need some minor adjustment.
Also, for best performance, you need to be sure the carbs are synch'd and your ignition timing is right.
I know this all sounds like a lot of work, but jetting your bike right is too important to just ignore. But yes, there can be some trial and error involved.
 
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