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high idle and loud backfire from the exhaust

  • Thread starter Thread starter Passerledezma
  • Start date Start date
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Passerledezma

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1981 suzuki gs450t. This weekend I rebuilt the carbs gave it a new fuel line and replaced all o rings and put in two new intake I bench synced them to the size of a needle, thank you guys for the information on the website. Today I put in the two new pods and I got an extremely high idle with an almost immediate backfire through the exhaust. Before I rebuilt the carb and changed all the parts I only had the high idle issue now it's that and a backfire. Pretty frustrated. Any clue? The carb has been jetted to the pods as it did run last season when I purchased it. I'm running out of ideas on the idle and now I have a backfire ..Edit




 
Well, I'm no expert, but seeing that the knowledgeable ones haven't chimed in yet (or are still at work), I'll ask this: if it's a consistently high idle, can't you just reach in and lower the idle speed screw?

"Reach in" means I've never owned this model and don't know where the idle speed adjustment is. But there should be one, shouldn't there be, Master Po?

Master Khan?
 
The high idle is to the point where the adjustment screw is not making contact and there is no difference noted
 
The high idle is to the point where the adjustment screw is not making contact and there is no difference noted
When you bench sync them "to size of needle" weren't they resting on idle stop screw?
How many turns out are you on idle mixture screw.?
the high idle and backfiring stuff sure sounds like lean condition, did you replace the o-rings at carb boot
/head interface?
 
O -rings were replaced to the intake manifolds were replaced/added. The idle mixture screw was turned about 2.5 times to open up the flaps about the size of a needle (that's what I meant initially sorry if that was a confusing statement). So I'm pretty stuck from here on out. I do think the mixture is lean from side effects but I can't run her long enough so give me some sort of reading on the spark plug. Thanks for the help and for bearing with me
 
I'm not familiar with the 2 cylinder models. But if you're running pod filters wouldn't you need to refer the carbs? That can cause a high idle and it would run like crap
 
The only time I have seen a bike idle high with the idle speed screw not touching is when the cable was grossly mis-adjusted, not allowing the throttle to close.

Loosen the lock on the adjuster at the right-hand throttle grip (upper end of the cable), screw the adjuster to allow maximum slack. Go down to the carbs, loosen the locknuts on the lower end of the cable, adjust them so there is slack in the cable. Start the bike, see if you have a "normal" idle speed. If necessary, turn the idle speed screw ONLY until you have a reasonable idle speed. Now, adjust the lower end of the cable to provide just a little bit of slack, lock the locknuts. Now go to the upper end, adjust there for minimal slack. Check for a too-tight situation by turning the handlebar to both extremes. Keep removing any slack until the engine speed rises when you turn the bars to one extreme or the other, then back off until there is no speed change. Lock the adjuster in place there.

.
 
So the racing idle is fixed now. The idle stop adjustment was what I was initially adjusting. So the idle speed seems to be good. Now what I'm getting is pretty lean conditions. I say this because I'm getting white smoke out the carb pods and exhaust. Also I'm getting really weak power on low rpms
 
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