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Holy Cow Batman, My GS goes fast now!

  • Thread starter Thread starter relic-rider
  • Start date Start date
R

relic-rider

Guest
Thanks for all of the tips and advice that are found on this forum. I was able to shim my needles(put the plastic washer under the c-clip and the metal washer above), and now magically I have POWER in all of my ranges. Now all I have to do is get 3 of my air/mixture screws loose and hopefully get the bike to idle better. Amazing how such little changes can make a BIG difference in performance!

Dan
 
Screwed?

Screwed?

Fill the holes leading to screws with carb cleaner and let sit overnight and see if this breaks them free.
 
Yeah, be extremely careful with those guys. Strip them and you're in a world of annoyances
 
Did you say the plastic washer goes under the "c" clip? I am putting together my old 1980 gs 750, CV carbs. I bought this set of carbs for it a couple of years ago. I put a rebuild kit in it. Idles file but nothing above 2500rpm.
so i raised the float level to 20.5 mm (on the gasket) fron 23 mm. (not much help, still will not rev above 2500rpm)

them i raised the needle one notch, and it will rev to 4000rpm.

BUT, i have the plastic washer on top of the "c" clip, and the steel washer below the c clip, then the spring. Have i got this messed up? putting the plastic washer below the "c" clip will be like raising the needles 3 notches.

let me know, what the correct stack up is, dam, that would be good news.

Thanks a bunch

John
only ding the carbs,
 
I already synced them before. I intend to do it again after I get those mixture screws loose as my idle is my only problem now. And yes I took that plastic washer that is normally on top and swapped it with the metal one on the bottom. Probably a big jump, but I didn't have any washers handy so I did a quick switcheroo to see if it helped. And YES it did. I rode home from work today in 40 degree temps and it started and warmed up quicker and still had gobs of power in all ranges. It was really lean before. I kind of set my floats on the high side of the limit when I put in the K& L kits. It is supposed to be in the high 80's later this week, so I will see if it is too rich for those temps.

Dan
 
Suzuki guy,

In stock form, the plastic washer goes OVER the c-clip, with the thin metal washer UNDER the c-clip. Before 1980 or so, the neddles had multiple grooves so you could fine-tune the mixture. EPA regulations prevent the users from playing with them, so there is only one groove now. In order to lift the needle and richen up the mixture to where it runs right, it is possible to swap the two washers. The difference in thickness is about the same as moving the clip 1 to 1 1/2 notches on the adjustable needles. The best part of this is that there are no parts to chase down and buy, they are already there in your carbs. :)
 
Thanks for smoking tip. When i was putting things together i was looking at the whole carb set up. Even though the performance was improving when i was raising the needle, i had thought when i got to the end of the needle range, that raising the needle was compensating for a poor adjustment somewhere else. Namely float level.

Float level seems to be a whole topic on itself. I dont have a manual for the bike, but looking through the threads and internet, there is alot of variance. measure from the gasket, no gasket. 21mm to 26mm. Or the other stand pipe method. In the end, i have no clue what my carb float level is supposed to be. looking at the "bend-able tang" on the float, it looks to be bent a couple of degrees off being inline with the rest of the metal float piece. (set now at 20 mm with gasket)

If it wasent sunday dinner in a hour, i would be out in the garage flipping the plastic washers and going for a rip. However, i dont think the wife would be too impressed if i suddenly spontaniously combusted at the dinner table due to the gas all over me (we have candles). Will give it a go tomorrow night. Thanks folks

John
 
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